How to Open up Gorton 375 Spindle and Replace Bearings? - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    I got it apart. I intended to watch the assembly video prior to taking the parts out, but the spindle and two front bearings fell out in my hand unexpectedly.

    The rear bearing is a slip fit, which is why the shaft fell out. I didn't know it was possible for a shaft to have slip-fit bearings without getting chewed up.

    The grease in the front bearings is exactly like thick cosmoline. I'm sure that's not normal. I don't see identifying marks on them, so I can't order new ones yet.

    The guy who helped me out says the bearings are not expensive precision jobs. Maybe I can get replacements at a car parts store.

    I will post photos and details when I'm not so tired.

  2. #22
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    Gorton gave me bearing info. It appears to be incorrect. They gave me this code for the front bearings: 2MM203 WI CR D4L. I looked at Timken's catalog, and it appears that "D4L" is supposed to be "DUL," which means a dual bearing.

    I can get 2MM203 WI CR DUL bearings, and it looks like NOS examples aren't prohibitively expensive. I am nervous about installing them, however. I have read that the area where they're installed has to be extremely clean. I can do my best to keep things out of the bearings, but I can't create a clean room and drag my heavy arbor press there.

    These bearings come in a two-bearing set. I have been reading up on it. It appears that I don't have to worry about preloading them, because that is somehow determined by the way they are put together at the factory. I don't know if this is true, but I hope it is, because it would mean I could just install them, tighten the nut, and turn the grinder on. My guess is that it's true, because the nut will tend to tighten itself as the grinder is used, so I don't think it would be possible to tighten it just the right amount during installation and expect it to stay there.

    I am working on getting the crud out of the old bearings. I read a Forrest Addy forum post in which he said you can't take the balls out without risking problems because the balls are measured and installed in a certain order! I'm hoping I can dissolve the crud in the bearings. I'm not sure how to get new grease in there. Maybe I can use a hypodermic.

    I'm not sure what kind of grease to use. If anyone has advice, I am listening.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve H. Graham View Post
    I'm not sure what kind of grease to use. If anyone has advice, I am listening.
    The guys at Lumley used to recommend Lubriko. It's a semi-transparent dark gold color, very clean and .... well, Lumley said so, they knew their stuff

  4. #24
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    Timken told me this: "The few sealed precision ball bearings we offer we use Kluber ISOFLEX NBU 15. Anything comparable to that would be fine."

    This stuff is really expensive, although a Russian Ebay seller has it for $6/30g, which is a bargain. I assume no one out there is counterfeiting grease.

  5. #25
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    And don't over pack the bearing,about 2/3 full is plenty.


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