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Jones and Shipman 540 Grinder Wheel Change

SDJR

Plastic
Joined
Mar 13, 2018
Hello,

Long time peeper first time poster.

I am having a problem with my surface grinder. About 30 min ago it decided to crack a wheel on on me and i went to change it and have no idea how it comes off.

I know its on a thread but unable to work it loose, was wondering if anyone has a technique or i'm missing something.

Thanks
 
Well it is a left hand thread to start with.

So the rotation of the spindle goes the way that would tighten the wheel with having a spindle nut and a wheel mount flange nut often the flange nut having a spanner nut with two holes for use with a spanner wrench..not a hammer and punch..using a hammer on a grinder spindle can ruin the bearings.
William Sopko & Sons Co., Inc - Standard Taper Wheel Adapters

The spanner wrench end set on a block set on the chuck , with two hands on the wheel will very often loosen it..

Failing to turn then take off the spindle nut (also left hand)remove wheel mount with perhaps a light pressure by hand back side pry. Then put the mount in a vise(with some protection from marring)and spanner wrench it off.

Good to mark the flange nut with a bench grinder "left hand" " <- off".
We would red-paint the left hand spindle nuts on TC grinders because some had turned spindles. Surface grinder only have the nuts going opposite the rotation.

Be sure to ring test the new wheel and use a blotter on both sides.
I like to tighten with the wheel wrench on a block to tighten as tight as I can with one hand on the wheel..then make a little tighter with two hands.
Know the grind side and the climb side and try to come slowley to work from the grind side only.
 
using a hammer on a grinder spindle can ruin the bearings.
I made some of these, I'm sure you've seen them, mb -- the nut is threaded on the i.d. and has teeth on the o.d. The flange has three holes spaced evenly around the bore. The wrench is a stem pinion with the last 1/2" or so turned down to fit into the holes in the flange.

Blotter, wheel flange, then nut snugged up by hand. Then the stem pinion engages the teeth on the outside of the nut, located by the bores in the flange, and tightens the nut against the flange against the wheel.

It's a trick setup. Pretty simple to make but works great. No pounding and you don't need a 3" socket.
 
Perhaps a strap wrench around the wheel mount with a strip of crocus clothe between.. and the proper wrench..

Have seen people put a wrench to the spindle back nut.. but with this one may damage the drive from motor to spindle and cause a knocking that affect finish..so don't advise that...
 
There are two steps:

(1) Remove the nut. This is a left-hand nut, so you turn it in the opposite direction from normal to loosen

(2) Remove the wheel flange from the taper shaft. For this, you use a tool that threads over the center part of the wheel flange and pushes the flange off the taper.

Here is what the standard tool looks like. The left part is for removing the nut (or tightening it). The right part is to push the wheel flange off the taper.

1a42a717a1e9e1b64cbfd82c8bd02318.jpg


540 Wheel Extractor
 
Found it. These work great. If you're a cheapskate like me don't have to buy from Sopko, can make the parts pretty easy from Boston Gear or Browning stock pieces. No banging, goes into deep recesses, good feel for how much compression you're putting onto the wheel, works super

William Sopko & Sons Co., Inc - Glare Gear Nut Assembly

some drawings to illustrate

Cincinnati Taper Wheel Adapters With Glare Gear Assembly.

Same principal works fine on big wheels, too. I ran this on Landis with 20" x 2" wheels.
 








 
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