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K.O. Lee S618 Wheel Guard

airrj

Plastic
Joined
Dec 27, 2020
I purchased a used K.O. Lee S618 that has a closed grinding area. There is a hood with a piece of plexiglass that closes the grind table. I am just in the process of getting the grinder together to try it out, and I am not sure if I am going to like this box around the grinding area. However there is no wheel guard on the machine. The closed box is the wheel guard. Does anyone have access to an S618 that could send me some photos of the stock wheel guard? I will likely make a guard, and I would like to see how factory did it and go from there. Thanks in advance.

R.J.

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Fabricate a wheel guard

I purchased a used K.O. Lee S618 that has a closed grinding area. There is a hood with a piece of plexiglass that closes the grind table. I am just in the process of getting the grinder together to try it out, and I am not sure if I am going to like this box around the grinding area. However there is no wheel guard on the machine. The closed box is the wheel guard. Does anyone have access to an S618 that could send me some photos of the stock wheel guard? I will likely make a guard, and I would like to see how factory did it and go from there. Thanks in advance.

R.J.

View attachment 309998

No I don't.
Machines guards like that signify control of lots of dust, or an odd electrostatic [?] process I cannot describe knowledgeably.
Good news, any recip I've seen has a machined area, round, behind the wheel. Made for mounting a guard, either a split bore or slotted U with a cap held by two screws.
I'd roll a strip of HRS to radius of largest wheel plus about 3/4", wide enough to span from clamp to a bit past arbor. That forms pattern for 2 plates front and back. Cut from a single piece of stock, the front will hang a bit past wheel nut, longer remainder in back. Bore round or square stock to the size of spindle housing, plus .002 - .003 or so. Drill and tap face for three screws 1/4" or 5/16", one at apex,two not too low on lower edge. Drill an tap convenient edge for clamp screw, then saw periphery toward center so clamp will work. Drill clearance holes and countersink for flush screw heads.
The front plate will need a hinge or detachment for wheel changes.
If really enthused, scale up material thickness of hoop and back plate, build or buy an overhead dresser. Totally uncommon on 6" x's but appreciated over cranking up and down, and maybe moving out a set up.
Unless you have an isolated grind area, away from ways and crosslides, only the front panel will be obtrusive. The ends, particularly the left arrests majority of 'fines' generated dressing and grinding. Later, adding coolant or dust extractor, you'll wish it was saved.
BTW, all those heavyweight grinders, I call Covel patterned, beat sheetmetal pedestal versions 100 to 1. Level her well, on 1/2" pads with a layer of felt between floor and pad. If you make pads, cut some type of pocket for jackscrew, be certain to chamfer underside of pad, relieve the middle third or so, and set down on c-l-e-a-n floor.
 
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I have an S618 and I also have an extra one of those Vac-u-guard wheel enclosures I bought (used) for it but never attempted to mount it.
 
It is a MUST to have a wheel guard, I hate to say I blow up stones once in a while, the pieces of flying stone have killed machinists, the plexiglass guard will not help you...Phil
 
Since I had a couple questions about my spare guard I'll just post info here. This is not a sale thread, merely for details on adapting a guard to an S618. Apparently there are (or where) different mounts available for these guards and
the Vac-U-Guard mount I have is too small. It would need to be modified or replaced to mount on an S618, that might be why I never got around to it.

The S618 spindle housing is 3-3/4" OD but the mount I got with this guard only has a 3-1/8" bore.

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I think it's be better to make a proper mount.
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Qt: holescreek{The S618 spindle housing is 3-3/4" ]
So the eBay bracket I found won't work.
Having a friend with a lathe you might make your own bracket to the size you measure.

the flip-door style as in post #7 is best.
 
Thank you Holescreek, you reply is very helpful. I appreciate you taking the time to take your guard apart for some detailed photos. It make the design much clearer.
 








 
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