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Landis 4H O.D. Grinder

Z

zr1nsx

Aluminum
Joined
Dec 31, 2007
Location
indianapolis
I just obtained a 40's vintage Landis that appears to be in excellent condition, but I have no experience with the Landis grinders. I've used Brown and Sharpe and Studer in the past, but these were more modern machines. Everything appears to work on the machine, but again having no practical experience with it, I will more than likely have a gazillion questions. If anyone here has one I would like to talk with you about these machines. I do have a basic operators manual that was provided with the machine, but it is very basic. Would love to find a original parts and diagram manual.
 
Used the old Landis last week to grind 25 parts and was amazed at how well this old "war machine" works. Was able to hold .0002 on size and straightness with little effort. The only issue I had was that the grinding wheel spindle housing gets real hot after 4-5 hours of use and I did have to adjust to compensate for growth, but very little (.0003) during the course of the job.
Is it normal for the casting go get hot enought that it's uncomfortable to hold you hand on it?? The oil sight glass in the front of the casting shows plenty of oil and it is circulating when the spindle is turning. I'm quite suprised that the repeatability of the machine was as good as it was, considering how much heat the head is generating.
 
I've got a Landis 12x28 universal. Old clunker, but a ''dead on'' machine. What kind of questions do you need answered? The only thing I don't like is , it doesn't have dwell.
Hmmm, bearings heating up? Maybe to tight? To heavy of oil? Mine will run all day without hardly any rise in temp.
Pete Pheil who owns Amcorp has knowledge and parts for these old timers.
248 348 3001
 
Thanks Ray. After running the machine for a full day, I've pretty much answered all of the questions I have had up till now. I just would like to learn more about the Microspehere wheel spindle bearings. The oil in the head looks perfectly clean and is not low, yet the heat generation is more than any other grinding machine I have ever operated. The spindle runs very quiet and produces a wonderful finish, so I don't thing there is any damage in the head at the moment, and I would like to insure that it doesn't deteriorate. Thanks for the contact.

Ed
 
I would have concern with the spindle housing getting that hot.

If it is too hot to touch by hand this means you are over 120 deg.

Somthing is not right.

But there may be some guys here with much more experience on this machine who can give some more input.
 
Checked the temperature with a infrared thermometer and it's up to 145 degrees. I'm going to replace the oil in the headstock and see if it doesn't help.
 
I had a 4H for years, bought it from a guy named Floy Brogden. Floy owned Regal Grinding and also did the Landis installs and service for the dealer in socal. Floy was a good oldtimer and a character, I haven't talked to him in years. I'm guessing he's gone.
Floy set his spindle bearings up so the case was hot to the touch, he also mentioned that he had customers that believed the bearings should be tighter so they ran them hot enough that it'd burn the paint.
 
This grinder is simply a wonderful machine. I have ground about 250 precision king pins (+/-.0002) and have had excellent repeatability and no problems maintaining straightness. I only paid 2K for the machine and for that kind of money, I am extremely happy with the results. The head still gets very hot, but after a few conversations with former and present owners, they all said that they do in fact run hot. I changed the spindle oil with Mobil Velocite 6 hoping it would reduce some of the heat, but it only changed it by maybe 5-10 degrees. I'll just keep on using this machine as is and hope that the heat is normal.
 
I am looking at a Landis 4-H to do some occasional grinding of Harley crank shaft pins for a local bike shop. I was able to run a test pin a few weeks back and prove the process. Made up a batch of 20 pins and went out to use the machine again. Started the machine to get the spindle up to operating temps. Started jogging the machine around to get in position to dress the wheel and all of a sudden the spindle motor shuts off. I thought maybe the phase converter tripped but no such luck. I can hear the contactor pull in but it won’t start the spindle now. Hoping to go back next week and move it away from the wall so I can see what’s going on in the back cabinet. Really hoping this machine works out because the price is definitely right.
 
Sounds good. I’m always looking for ways to improve. This is my first “production” batch. So far so good, but now I need to find an OD grinder
 
Ive got a Type C 16x72 universal...........WW2 ex US Navy,ex RAAF.........how does it fit into the scheme of things?......It had a refit by the RAAF,but I dont think the crowd knew what they were doing......Anyhoo,they ground the bed and table,but its got no scraping or flaking marks....It has pressure way lube,does it need flaking.........its runs accurate ,and the hydraulics and Ward Leonard work OK...........the microsphere bearings run warm,never hot......has thin hydraulic oil in the head,same visc as speced in the manual.
 
On our old landis grinders were I worked they used to put a can of slick 50 in the oil to keep the bearings from getting warm. the old mechanic swore by slick 50 for grinders always said that was the only thing it was good for.
 
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