Bought this Leach 6 x 12 grinder just to have a surface grinder in my hobby shop, cleaned and oiled up ways and table are in great shape for an antique , motor runs quiet and very little end play less than .001, spindle bearings seem smooth and free however when I put a new Gates V belt on i get a .0005 vibration , checked pulley alignment and run out and seemed OK @ less than .0002 on both the motor and spindle , ran the belt in and re checked the tension of the belt and is on the looser side @ .09 deflection at 7 lbs of force , but you can feel a tight loose condition if you turn the wheel by hand, any help would be appreciated
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Looking for information on Leach surface grinder 6x12 manual
- Thread starter romy
- Start date
- Replies 4
- Views 1,454
michiganbuck
Diamond
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2012
- Location
- Mt Clemens, Michigan 48035
Turn the wheel by hand does it slip?
Did you feel the belt for a miss match or seam ridge or bump. Some times you have to take a Dremal and grind the belt to be smooth.
Don't know anything about that brand but the photos I see on the net it looks like a decent machine.
H. Leach Machinery OD Grinder...
Did you feel the belt for a miss match or seam ridge or bump. Some times you have to take a Dremal and grind the belt to be smooth.
Don't know anything about that brand but the photos I see on the net it looks like a decent machine.
H. Leach Machinery OD Grinder...
Thanks for your reply,
There is no slippage evident, even @ .0025 depth of cut! I was trying to find information on the spec for the belts for that machine ( no luck so far). Not knowing what the spec is for the belts I had just replaced what was on it when I rescued it with a new one of the same manufacture (Gates True Flex 3240) . Are there closer tolerance belts made ? I think tomorrow I will take a closer look at that V belt and see if I can see some miss match along with loosen the belt tension some more now that it has run in some what,
Kind regards
There is no slippage evident, even @ .0025 depth of cut! I was trying to find information on the spec for the belts for that machine ( no luck so far). Not knowing what the spec is for the belts I had just replaced what was on it when I rescued it with a new one of the same manufacture (Gates True Flex 3240) . Are there closer tolerance belts made ? I think tomorrow I will take a closer look at that V belt and see if I can see some miss match along with loosen the belt tension some more now that it has run in some what,
Kind regards
michiganbuck
Diamond
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2012
- Location
- Mt Clemens, Michigan 48035
I take a die grinder and with about 1" long sweeps grind away any step at the parting line of a belt. Some belts are pretty bad..some OK. I like no bump/step at parting line.
Good to run the motor alone to see how smooth. Good to make a check of spindle RPM..You may not know if the motor has been changed and the wheel is going to fast. Wheel speed should not exceed the wheel marking..Some pulleys are not very high quality and balanced for high speed.
Some old wheels are oil, coolant, logged and so even with dressing still run way out of balance..Run with no wheel, then with wheel can sometimes tell if wheel is bad. A new name brand wheel will run with OK balance..Balancing is good but a 7" dressed wheel will run Ok with a dress.
Way oil is best for ways and you don't use very much so good to spring for a can of proper oil.
New to grinding? Any part taller than its bottom should be blocked in at the go side (left on most grinders.) Dress a wheel and with first near contact down feed on the right, then with slow traveling the part going toward the right.. this allows contact to a high place with not catching or climbing on the part. Catch or climb will often burn or flipping the part off the magnet...once you contact the part you can gauge feed and travel..if the wheel seems to lose RPM you are feeding or traveling to fast...
likely you know to ring test every wheel and use blotters on both sides... and have a wheel guard ..and wear safety glasses.
Grinding you don't long travel dead slow, or as fast as you can crank..but go about half that for most grinding jobs...
The amount of down feed regulates the grinding with maintain spindle RPM, tightness of sparks, sound, caution to a chancy set-up, heat of the part, these mostly what to consider.
Talking about manual surface grinding use the words Long travel, cross and down because surface grinder manufacturers are confused with WYZ for grinders. With CNC grinders it can be good to draw a little map of the direction for that/each machine so a new guy to the shop is not confused.
Good to run the motor alone to see how smooth. Good to make a check of spindle RPM..You may not know if the motor has been changed and the wheel is going to fast. Wheel speed should not exceed the wheel marking..Some pulleys are not very high quality and balanced for high speed.
Some old wheels are oil, coolant, logged and so even with dressing still run way out of balance..Run with no wheel, then with wheel can sometimes tell if wheel is bad. A new name brand wheel will run with OK balance..Balancing is good but a 7" dressed wheel will run Ok with a dress.
Way oil is best for ways and you don't use very much so good to spring for a can of proper oil.
New to grinding? Any part taller than its bottom should be blocked in at the go side (left on most grinders.) Dress a wheel and with first near contact down feed on the right, then with slow traveling the part going toward the right.. this allows contact to a high place with not catching or climbing on the part. Catch or climb will often burn or flipping the part off the magnet...once you contact the part you can gauge feed and travel..if the wheel seems to lose RPM you are feeding or traveling to fast...
likely you know to ring test every wheel and use blotters on both sides... and have a wheel guard ..and wear safety glasses.
Grinding you don't long travel dead slow, or as fast as you can crank..but go about half that for most grinding jobs...
The amount of down feed regulates the grinding with maintain spindle RPM, tightness of sparks, sound, caution to a chancy set-up, heat of the part, these mostly what to consider.
Talking about manual surface grinding use the words Long travel, cross and down because surface grinder manufacturers are confused with WYZ for grinders. With CNC grinders it can be good to draw a little map of the direction for that/each machine so a new guy to the shop is not confused.
Finally got back to the grinder after reading some of your suggestions and noticing that the spindle pulley is made of billet aluminum and the motor pulley was die cast and I had noticed a void in the casting face made me wonder about its balance after making some phone calls to see if I could get it balanced I found only one place that could dynamic balance something that lite but I would have to supply a mandrel , so I decided to make a new one out of a solid piece of aluminum , this worked out good I think all surfaces where cut at the same time, I roughed everything and finished the bore & key-way then mounted (Sweated) it on a stub shaft in the lathe and finished all the surfaces together this made a huge difference, Thanks for your insight ! Do you have any suggestions on wheel type and grit size for general grinding ? I was thinking Boreizon with 40 grit ?
