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Thread: Mitsui grinder

  1. #1
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    Default Mitsui grinder

    I have 1986 mitsui 205mh grinder in like new condition,recently set machine up with wet grinding system witch works great.Shop is small trying to keep dust down,my question is do I have to worry about trashing the spindle running coolant, read that here on the forum some other member had that problem with same machine.Grinder has stock wheel guard on it.One other question,we like to keep backlash to minimal amounts on machinery my Z axis has 24thou backlash can I adjust that out without taking table off. Machine has no dro on lt.By the way this grinder makes me look like a hero, and l would not make a pimple on a good grinder hands arse.

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    I've used several Mitsui grinders at different shops and have one at home for personal use. I don't think I can adequately answer your question about coolant use with the spindle. Most of the time I've ground dry, so did the other die makers. Perhaps that's just due to the amount of time involved with cleaning off coolant when going from grinder to surface plate and back again and not wanting the spin-indexer gunked up with coolant. The occasional times I needed coolant a mister/spitter was used. I think I've only felt the need for flood cooling about 6 times over 30+ years. Rarely saw any other die makers use flood coolant on the 6 x 12 grinders either, the larger wet grinders were used. I've not heard or seen examples where use of coolant trashed a spindle but I don't know everything. Could you post examples? I've done a brief search on this and not found anything mentioning this.

    As for your Z axis play, I'll presume that you mean the In/Out and not Up/Down? I'd sooner put a DRO on the machine regardless just to have the added capability of reading to 4 (or 5) decimal places, and the ease of setting a relative/absolute "zero". The lead screws on Mitsui's may be good but most shops even put a DRO on Moore jig borers/grinders which had exceptional lead screw accuracy. For the Y axis (Up/Down) I wouldn't trust any device to read accurately to 4 decimal places when distance travel is over .5000 until I had mapped/verified travel on the surface plate first and would probably still want to check it a few .001's safe anyway. Don't know if this helped but nobody else replied.

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    The table comes off so easy that I think it should be taken off every couple years for a cleaning. A strip of masking tape can be set on the space between the table base and the moving long travel table so to keep out much dust. A sheet metal box can be made to set on the go direction of the table starting about 10" left of the wheel head to catch the spray, withh it being perhaps 12-14" high and as wide as the table.... Running dry is Ok if you are not in a rush for parts. Time to cool. A mist is fine for much work. Wheel selection is important. That box idea can be used also for running dry woth a dust collector...

    The cross feed .024 likely has little bearing on the actual travel in one direction as the lead screw is harder than the lead screw nut. You almost always have some free travel there and learn to live with learning to consider one-way measure.

    To check try the .024 when the wheel is 3" this side of the back rail. And again, when the wheel is at the close to you side of the chuck. if the same then the machine is accurate with .024 but just with getting used to one-way measure. It would be the same with .002. you just work around it and caliper or Jo Block the measure cross.

    Good to have a manual for it.... agree a DRO can be handy even though I don't have one on my SGs.

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    My buddy worked at a major shop running very fancy spade cutters much for the faucet parts industry. The owner refused to have coolant on any grinders. Yes, they just took more time grinding everything. He (my buddy) was really surprised when he started using coolant at how much faster. I have ground dry and wet. I have used a hand spray bottle for some gauge work.


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