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Oliver of Adrian Model 510 Drill Grinder (a.k.a. Drill Pointer)

MichaelP

Titanium
Joined
Dec 7, 2008
Location
IL/WI border
Just bought and received the unit. The Operating and Service manuals are available too.

I need to lift the machine off the pallet and put it on a mobile base. Guys from Oliver didn't exactly remember how this old grinder was designed to be lifted, but I received a couple of helpful suggestions from Mike here.

Now after I cleaned the machine outside, I think I can use those two 3/8-16 threaded holes used to attach the wheel guard on the top of the unit. A couple of eyebolts screwed all the way down might work, IMHO. The machine is just shy of 1,000 lb

What do you guys think?

Also, I'd like to get helpful hints on those who actually use(d) the grinder. Any suggestions of how to clean the chuck before the first use? Should I remove it for cleaning? The manual strongly warns against chuck disassembling, but doesn't describe how to clean it well.

Any advice of chucking drills securely (tapered or straight shank)? Drill positioning, most often used clearances, etc. Any tips and hints will be much appreciated. I read the relevant forum posts and did some searching on the Net, but want more. :) The manuals, although very helpful, are quite brief.

Did you cover the universal joints with boots of some kind (DIY or commercially made)?

Thank you.
 
As long as the holes are in a solid part of the machine you should be okay. If the eyebolts can't screw all the way in so the shoulders bottom out use washers or spacers so that they do. Orient them so the eyes are pointed as close as possible to the same direction, with the faces of the eyes parallel to a line drawn between the holes. Use clevises. The weight rating on a single good quality ⅜"-16 eyebolt should be over 1,000 pounds, but if you get any sudden movements or bouncing during the lift/movement the effective weight you're lifting will spike much higher.
 
I have moved one around by running a sling around the grinder next to the stone. I cannot get a picture for a week or so. Shank makes no difference, as long as it is center drilled, you are fine. Back of drill is held centered by the center drilled hole in the shank of the drill. Two jaw self centering chuck holds the business end of the drill.
I haven’t worried about cleaning the chuck on the one I have run seems to work OK as far as the chuck is concerned.
Wish you luck and hope this helps.
 
Thank you guys.

I'm open for other suggestions and tips.

Can you post a photo? Remember that cast iron is weak in tension, and strong in compression. I have the impression that the way you are going to lift it will put the area around the eyebolt threads in tension. Might not be smart.
 
Thank you guys.

I'm open for other suggestions and tips.

Tilt it. Teach it to walk.

Place a pair of cheap rubber mats, one each side of the column.

Put a longish 2" X 6" each side.

Cinch or allthread them "up close and personal" to the column 'til they bend a tad and have a good "pinch" grip ON the column.

Tilt back, to a sawhorse or drywall/painter step bench, sandbag it.

Take the Sawzall and cut the pallet in half, remove the side under the raised edge. Place a stack of grillage.

Tilt the other way. Pull the other half of the pallet, place a lesser stack of grillage.

Pallet now gone [1], alternate tilting and retracting layers of grillage until on bare deck.

Use the "wheelbarrow handles" to corner-walk it to wherever you want it to be do its Day Job.

Sheet galvanized and a spritz of oil or grease under it is cheating, but wot the hey .. unlike pipe or bar rollers, you can stop and go for a sandwich, a piss, or a fone call.. at any time.

And if the "lifting gear" fails? It can only drop the load about 25 thousandths of an inch! Not a lot of risk, is there?

Ergo good riggers cheat first time, every time, and all the time, to a very high standard.

It's why they call us "riggers" ....instead of "common labourers".

:)

Detach 2" X 6" and rubber doormats. Aside for the next job. Or whatever else needs a 2" X 6". Or a rubber doormat. Not as if they were hard to find nor uber-costly, is it?

If you break the machine, break the gear, break a fingernail, break skin, or even break a sweat?

Slow down. Think ahead. Yer doing something wrong.

Rigging was meant to be brain work, safe and easy for one man or few.

Not muscle, risk, and sweat work for a whole army of musclebound fools and a USACE Regimental motor-pool full of equipment tripping all over each other's clumsy arses.

[1] If you MUST preserve the pallet? Use the sheet-metal & lube trick with the extended "handles" to slide it off onto a stack of grillage shimmed to the same level.

Don't be hesitant to screw this stuff together so it dasn't escape at the worst possible time. Pull the screws only once you have it stable, pallet asided, intact, and are ready to tilt-walk it down to the deck and across the shop floor to its new home.
 








 
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