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Should one buy a Moore Jig Grinder?

If you like it, YES!

You should never have to ask if you need to buy a machine, even if you don't need it.

Josh
 
That would depend upon what you want to do with it. I used a few in the course of making stamping dies and I liked using them very much. I've not used other makes of jig grinders to compare them with but any machine tool from Moore (jig bore/jig grinder) was always a pleasure to use.
 
One if the best jig grinders ever made. Might not do much for you if your not in the right line of work. I would like to have one though.
 
What other jig grinders are their ? ,I've only heard of Moore ,Hauser and Mitsui Seiki ,I don't know if SIP did one I think they did but they must be rare.
 
Deckel also did a jig grinder version of their LK jig borer. I would try to find out what a spindle rebuild costs and factor that into the price if I was looking at a used one for actual work (regardless of make).
 
For what it's worth, I have both jig grinder and jig borer, and while they are a bit specialized for the home shop, it doesn't take too many paying jobs to cover the cost.
 
There always seem to be quite a few folks restoring their lathes including the tailstock. I remember seeing a pic at the Moore plant of a operation where they were grinding in the quill bore of a jig Borer/ or measuring machine using a jig grinder. I always considered that if this was the way Moore would do a quill bore then it would have to be the ultimate way to repair a worn lathe tailstock quill bore. You then would have to make a new tailstock ram to fit, but the bore should be just about as accurate as it could be,which is what you want.
 
Max stroke on the spindle is about 3 1/2 inches.You are better off to find someone with a long honing mandrel and a dialbore gage to finish that tailstock bore.
 
The quill that Moore was doing in the pic looked to about 12"+ deep at about 3" in dia. It did have an extension, but it looked pretty stout. Maybe they were only doing a section of the bore. Just going by what I saw in the pic.
 
Yes, you've just over three inches of spindle travel. But the whole spindle assembly can be moved vertically by several inches totalling a vertical movement of roughly one foot with maximum deviation in the range of less than 0.0001 (no, I haven't miscounted the zeros) even on a worn machine (I believe their specs on a new jig grinder was a max of 35 millionths).
Of course, if the hole is long and smaller than or equal to the spindle, you need a long tool or a tool extension in order to get to the bottom.
One reason why Moore tooling is still highly priced is because of the extreme precision they're made up to.

In order to understand their philosophy and what is involved in achieving certain levels of precision (and how to properly profit of them) is a good idea to read one or more of the books that the company has published during the years.

Paolo
 
Jig grinder is excellent for restoring/repair works. You can regrind the inside bores of gears, hydraulic pumps and valves etc etc.

Yesterday used Hauser jig grinder to restore variator central hub (toothed from outside). Could not imagine to do this any other way, because its quite hard to center toothed piece in lathe or cylindrical grinder.
 
Well I'm gonna keep all this in mind. I need to add onto my garage and make a clean room. That's were a machine like this should go. Also I need a large air compressor! with a air dryer.
 
When you release the head lock the head comes slightly away from the dovetail.You can not unlock, slide the head down and relock expecting the head to stay on centerline.The wheel w ill gouge out the workpiece. The picture you are looking at may have been a special set up.
 
When you release the head lock the head comes slightly away from the dovetail.You can not unlock, slide the head down and relock expecting the head to stay on centerline.The wheel w ill gouge out the workpiece. The picture you are looking at may have been a special set up.
Is their a picture here, I don't see?
 








 
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