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Why is the back of the grinder tailstock quill tapered like this?

ballen

Diamond
Joined
Sep 25, 2011
Location
Garbsen, Germany
My cylindrical grinder's tailstock came with this taper on the back of the quill. I thought it was deliberate, but am starting to think it was done to cover up grinding dings/crash marks. Is that right?

I don't think it's a good idea, because it lets grit under the wiper seal when fully retracted. Should I make a new quill that doesn't have this problem? Or is there a reason for this?

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It was a crash or the operator needed a little more room at the reverse of the travel when he was grinding. I've seen "shortcuts" like this before when the operator doesn't own the machine.
 
Probably faster and cheaper than all-new to just turn it to a reduced diameter

That's problematic because the taper on the rear has already intruded into the wall of the MT2 socket, so there is not enough meat. Also, the steel is hardened which means that turning it with CBN inserts or grinding it will distort the shape. Not good because it's a zero-clearance fit in the barrel.

shrink a sleeve over it. Might even be a stock metric bearing OD such that a store-bought repair sleeve could be utilized? Or you could make a heavier-wall one with the machinery you already own...

Making a replacement myself is fairly easy, since I can grind the OD to the right size.

If I do this I will probably make a hardened one. Any advice about the type of steel and hardening? This will fit into my little oven so materials that would allow me to DIY would be preferred.
 
.. Any advice about the type of steel and hardening? This will fit into my little oven so materials that would allow me to DIY would be preferred.

So long as your oven isn't so "little" as to risk introducing warpage to the body?

I doubt it will be all that critical.

If you want to gold-plate a Lily, OTOH, (as we know you well may..!) look into "Quench-Polish-Quench" nitriding...

That'll keep you out of the pubs and brothels for a while..

:)
 
I think it does not hurt anything unless you need full pull back for a long part. Agree it might be a clean - up for a crash or some odd part that needed the notch for clearance. You might consider a metal to metal adhesive... and the grind to be flush.
Agree I don’t how good they are / and you would not like a chuck falling into harms way.
You might run a test before trying such on your machine.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/LORD-FUS...edirectid=15600436856011683020510090301008005


Weld Mount - Adhesive Fastening System
 
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