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10" pedestal grinder identification help, and some repairs

[486]

Hot Rolled
Joined
Feb 16, 2014
Location
Minneapolis, MN
favorite surplus hardware store closed down and went to auction, regret not buying more stuff...
2pzzdbp.jpg

That's a 3/4" craftsman wrench for size comparison.
nltoia.jpg

Anyways, got this guy for $10 and they were nice enough to forklift it onto my trailer, nice enough to remove the guards with the forklift too. :D I got some practice TIG brazing. I was using silicon bronze rod (3/32", should have bought at least 1/8") It is interesting, works good on castings, use the torch to get the whole thing up to somewhere between burning your hands and where it starts to discolor, then start applying heat with the TIG torch being careful not to melt the base metal, on this I was using about 60A of AC and it was flowing out pretty good.
dm8b6a.jpg

No flux or anything. I have terrible luck torch brazing. One thing to note, there's zinc in the bronze. I felt like death was a perferable alternative to taking deep breaths after a while at it. Just bought another respirator for at home because of this lesson, already had one for at work.
The bearings had a lot of radial and axial play in them, but felt fairly good, so I made up a spacer to preload the 6205s that were already in there. When I finally put power to it they run smooth and quiet, so no reason to replace them with chinese ones.
2h3wgld.jpg

Made up one tool rest so far, was going to go all out and mill a slot for a sled but decided that I can just use the outside edge as a guide rail for any sort of sled I make up later on.
Gonna make retractable guards to replace the sawed off tops of the castings eventually. Going to run it off a VFD because 1750 RPM on a 10" wheel results in a real low surface speed. Figure I'll run it up in the revs to get the normal 5,000 SFPM you want on abrasives.
nf07s9.jpg

Someone was gentlemanly enough to use sandpaper on the dataplate.
Reading between the lines gives me 1HP, 9200 4835 model number?, 1750 RPM, 220v, 3.2A, 3ph, 60Hz, serial number?, 10" wheels?
Best I got. Plenty of googling brings up nothing looking even slightly similar.
 
Look up the maximum peripheral speed for 10'' (or whatever) grinding wheels - it's listed in all the cats and marked on the wheels.

Whatever you do and I mean this! ............................. if the wheel isn't rated fast enough or not marked DO NOT use it!
 
Do not run this thing unless you have the wheel guards and they are in place. Those would
put some serious hurt on you if they came apart at speed.
 
Whatever you do and I mean this! ............................. if the wheel isn't rated fast enough or not marked DO NOT use it!
I see plenty of old wheels marked with 3-4 different speed ratings for different diameters, allowing more RPMs as they wear. Where they're at at 7" or so it's down to 3500 sfpm.

Plenty of low speed knife sharpening stones available in sizes suitable for this thing, I know well enough not to put a chunk of round sandstone on this.
 
I have a 1hp 1750 10" Cincy Electric grinder. I wasn't sure it was going to be enough motor, being just 1hp. Let me assure you... you can lay on a bush hog blade on a coarse wheel hard as you can and never even slow it down. The 1hp is only part of the story... a 1hp 1750 motor has twice the torque of a 1hp 3450 motor. You will be astonished.
 
I see plenty of old wheels marked with 3-4 different speed ratings for different diameters, allowing more RPMs as they wear. Where they're at at 7" or so it's down to 3500 sfpm.

Plenty of low speed knife sharpening stones available in sizes suitable for this thing, I know well enough not to put a chunk of round sandstone on this.


If you did you would know that there are no "sandstone" wheels.
 
Sorry, "cheap chinese shellac bond wheel with no speed rating" or alternatively "square bore wheel from someone's yard art pedal grinder"

I was mainly looking for any hints toward identification.
 
looks like a fine grinder and you are doing a good jib of guards and such. Be sure to restore the speed (RPm ) as that is required by OSHA to be in operators view.
Actually good to not use unmarked wheels or those that do not ring, be sure flanges are bug free, a flat washer is under the nut, the rotation direction runs the nut tight. Aluminum oxide 32 to 45 best for taking stock, 54 to 120 for finishing, finer than 120 for a very light (wet best) polishing to best finish.

Some shellac bond wheel wont ring so taking a chance running them on an open grinder (any)... a wheel with no RPM indicated is very dangerous at grinding speeds.
 
favorite surplus hardware store closed down and went to auction, regret not buying more stuff...
2pzzdbp.jpg

That's a 3/4" craftsman wrench for size comparison.
nltoia.jpg

Anyways, got this guy for $10 and they were nice enough to forklift it onto my trailer, nice enough to remove the guards with the forklift too. :D I got some practice TIG brazing. I was using silicon bronze rod (3/32", should have bought at least 1/8") It is interesting, works good on castings, use the torch to get the whole thing up to somewhere between burning your hands and where it starts to discolor, then start applying heat with the TIG torch being careful not to melt the base metal, on this I was using about 60A of AC and it was flowing out pretty good.
dm8b6a.jpg

No flux or anything. I have terrible luck torch brazing. One thing to note, there's zinc in the bronze. I felt like death was a perferable alternative to taking deep breaths after a while at it. Just bought another respirator for at home because of this lesson, already had one for at work.
The bearings had a lot of radial and axial play in them, but felt fairly good, so I made up a spacer to preload the 6205s that were already in there. When I finally put power to it they run smooth and quiet, so no reason to replace them with chinese ones.
2h3wgld.jpg

Made up one tool rest so far, was going to go all out and mill a slot for a sled but decided that I can just use the outside edge as a guide rail for any sort of sled I make up later on.
Gonna make retractable guards to replace the sawed off tops of the castings eventually. Going to run it off a VFD because 1750 RPM on a 10" wheel results in a real low surface speed. Figure I'll run it up in the revs to get the normal 5,000 SFPM you want on abrasives.
nf07s9.jpg

Someone was gentlemanly enough to use sandpaper on the dataplate.
Reading between the lines gives me 1HP, 9200 4835 model number?, 1750 RPM, 220v, 3.2A, 3ph, 60Hz, serial number?, 10" wheels?
Best I got. Plenty of googling brings up nothing looking even slightly similar.

What was the name of the surplus hardware store?
 
What was the name of the surplus hardware store?

Amble's machinery in south minneapolis.
quick google shows this thread,
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...-know-ambles-machinery-hardware-store-177511/
and he was as described.
I was usually able to get out of there under a hundred carrying what I'd picked out, got out of the auction at 800 and the truck was on its bumpstops.

ETA: I see you knew the place. Sadly most went to scrap. Pallets and pallets of hydraulic motors and gearboxes dumped in over the side of a dump truck. Whole isles of bins of hardware for under $50 per. Would have picked up more but my boss was acting like I'd stepped on his nuts when I asked for the morning off to load what I had bought.
 
I was using silicon bronze rod (3/32", should have bought at least 1/8") It is interesting, works good on castings, use the torch to get the whole thing up to somewhere between burning your hands and where it starts to discolor, then start applying heat with the TIG torch being careful not to melt the base metal, on this I was using about 60A of AC and it was flowing out pretty good.
No flux or anything. I have terrible luck torch brazing. One thing to note, there's zinc in the bronze. I felt like death was a perferable alternative to taking deep breaths after a while at it.

you shouldn't get much zinc fume from a true silicon bronze rod. if it "hisses, and spits", and forms a noticeable white cloud of zinc fume, you have been sold a "brazing" rod generally intended for torch brazing, not a SiBr TIG rod such as AWS ER-CuSi-A. (1 percent zinc MAX.)

I buy direct from Wisconsin Wire Works, they brand that rod SIL WELD.

many WS joints will grab a handful of whatever, "yeah, we got that", so if buying less than box quantities, be skeptical.

on review, you said you were running AC, that is not good for TIG brazing, never had a problem with standard E neg DC for that, why did you choose AC?
 
on review, you said you were running AC, that is not good for TIG brazing, never had a problem with standard E neg DC for that, why did you choose AC?

It was in fact in a generic plastic bag marked "silicon bronze" haha

The AC is just because I like how the arc doesn't seem to stick on pointy bits. Being that I had a deep groove to fill in the arc was going wherever it wanted and I don't have steady enough hands for anything less than a 1/8" or so arc length.

Might also have been causing issue with the fumes? Pulling the metal up on one polarity.

More or less: I'm not good with the TIG. :p
 








 
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