14" L&S Lead screw.

I posted about fixing a bump in the feed handle in my 14" L&S Model X and it was as I assumed the Key. However I had to remove the apron so to do that I had to disconnect the lead screw and feed rod. Being the lathe is 96" centers that screw is quite long and aprox. 1.5" (probably more) it's quite heavy. In order to get it away from the lathe to allow clearance to remove the rack gear and shaft. I had to remove the housing the lead screw and feed shaft were connected. Being that the lathe is somewhat disassembled I then disconnected the screw and shaft from the housing, remove the lead screw and feed shaft so as to clean and paint the bed. Late is in excellent shape so I want to give it a face lift with a nice paint job, well done unlike what is usually seen done at some large shop. (Paint everything including grease)
OK my question is being the lead screw is connected in that housing and will be difficult to assemble. It would be much easier if I cut the lead screw and made a coupler. Just about all the lathes I owned the lead screw was coupled to the quick change box. Anyone have an opinion as to doing that?

I say no, put it together the way it was built.

That's easier said than done. That housing contains the mechanism to engage/disengage both the lead screw and the feed, not sure if both can be engaged at the same time but seems they can but there might be a interlock to prevent it. I've used the lathe quite a bit but can't seem to remember selection options nor can I remember having both engaged at the same time) In addition there is a mechanism to automatically stop the feed. I don't have the tool room version so the lead screw does not have auto stop or reverse. (does have the typical lead screw reverse. but timing will be lost)
I did manage to disassemble everything in he limited space available. If I were to reassemble it as it was originally I would have to have the apron lead screw and feed rod assembly away from the bed about 2 feet. That assembly is quite heavy and the shafts have to be about 12 feet long.

Have you got a ''blown up'' drawing etc etc?

I've seen lead screws spliced with a coupling just for easy dis-assembly on larger machines. Not saying do it. When I rebuilt my 20" L & S lathe, I did not remove the leadscrew or feed rod. Doing so involved a lot of taking apart of the gear box and I did not have a safe way to handle it in my garage. Did pull the apron off by carefully moving it to the tail end of the bed. Then supported it with rigging while the lead screw support was removed, then slid the apron off. Two people can man handle the apron if it is gutted which is the way I took it off. Once off, I replaced the lead screw support so the lead screw and feed rod didn't wind up getting bent later before re-assembly. Ken

With the ongoing restoration I have, 16" Hendey Tie bar, Hendeyman sent me a tutorial on how to splice the lead screw outside the gear box. Makes a world of difference when assembling. You can find the post in the antique forum under my name. I say go for it on the splicing.

Limy Sami said:

Have you got a ''blown up'' drawing etc etc?

Click to expand...

I have the parts manual, it has a drawing that shows assembly.
As far as alignment I can key the lead screw prior to cutting it. There is at least 1 foot of the lead screw beyond the housing it's mounted in that is not threaded so a coupler will be easy to make. Driving the lead screw is a coupler that slides on the keyed end of the lead screw (coupler is connected to the lever to engage/disengage the lead screw) Key is Woodruff type with flats so it will not rotate that's at lease 3/16" but not greater than 1/4" wide about 1-1/4" long. My intent is to remove all that covers access to the bed so I can clean and paint it. Might do as suggested after painting assemble the drive shafting and attach it to the bed then slide on the apron from the end.