Nice video, can't wait to see it running.
On the motor, that looks like the original, or at least very close to a photo I saw that supposedly had an original motor.
It's
probably 10 HP, but as you note in the video, you'll likely have to see the data plate to confirm it.
I
can say, however, that a
good 10HP VFD will cost you a fortune. I picked one up- the only non-eBay, non-Chinese-knockoff 10HP, single-phase-in VFD I could find, and that ran me a good $1,200 plus shipping.
I'm told the eBay "10 hp" VFDs work, but the jury is still WAY out how long they'll last or how much actual current draw they can support. (Most of the people that buy them are using big lathes for small jobs, and never really put a full draw on the motor.)
If you go with a VFD, you'll have to rewire all those buttons up there- that was clearly wired for native 3-phase, and you don't want to switch VFD power like that. It's fairly straightforward to use those buttons to control the VFD, but takes a little care and time.
One thing: the lathe does not have a built in reverse gear. In order to run the thing in reverse (if you ever needed to) you have to reverse the motor- which is easy and common, your controls very likely have that already wired in. The problem is, that oil pump does not run in reverse. The internal gears will not get the proper lube while running backward.
Not a big deal for a short run, as they're rollers and will have oil for a short while, but don't run it in reverse for very long.
You can check oil flow in that little window below and to the left of the big cylindrical lever boss on the headstock. When the spindle is running, you should see oil running down that window. Keep an eye on it- the oil flow quits, stop the machine and find out why. Same reason you don't want to run an engine with no oil.
Tht flippy cover on the left end that you say you're not sure about, is the "relieving attachement" location that I spoke of before- In
this photo on Tony's site, while it shows a slightly older model machine, you can see how the relieving attachment fits to both the headstock and compound.
Oh, and that side cover you hope to take off? That just slides off. No bolts, etc. It's just hung on the two bolts- grab those two knobs and just lift. Don't drop it.
The broken lever is the leadscrew reverse- which I suspect was actually sawed off rather than broken. An LSR is used for threading, among other things, you just close the half nuts wherever, and use the leadscrew reverse to simply wind the carriage back to start. Clearly, if somebody retrofitted a standard threading dial to the machine, they likely didn't use the LSR, and may have sawed the ball end off just to keep it from getting in the way.
Personally, I plan to have both: I was classically trained with a threading dial, and that's what I'm most comfortable with. I picked up a large dial of unknown make from another PM'er a few months back, and plan to install it, but I also plan to keep the LSR fully functional.
Th "21" you note is basically a "lot number"- certain parts have to be fitted to each other at the factory, and so things get stamped like that to keep them together through the assembly process, even when you have to separate them for machining. Mine has "19" in similar places, and I have an old leather-belt drill press with "23" on most of the bigger parts.
Let's see, what else? Don't shift the gears with the spindle turning. Oh, and that broken boss is in fact important- that's part of the clutch linkage that starts and stops the spindle. If that fails at the wrong time, you could wind up with a nasty crash. Mine had been broken, been rewelded, and then broken again- the cast iron is too thin, in my opinion, and I plan to make a new one out of welded steel.
Let us know when you have another video, or more pics.
I've been thinking of putting some pics and links up on my site, since I've kind of become the de-facto Springfield guru...
Doc.