You have found a Roundhead Regal lathe. If the swing of the lathe is cast into the headstock on the "operator's side" of it, the lathe is a "trainer model". A "trainer model" was built by LeBlond for use in schools and other vocational training programs. During WWII, the trainer lathes went into all sorts of defense and defense related industries with no distinction between them and the "standard" models. The "standard" round head Regal lathes had a bit heavier bed casting, but that was the only real difference.
1000 bucks for a complete Roundhead Regal with some tooling and delivery included is not a bad price. LeBlond used the threaded spindle nose as standard until some time after WWII when the long taper spindle nose became standard. During WWII, the long taper spindle nose was an option.
The LeBlond spindle nose thread is an oddball, LeBlond going with 5 threads/inch on the spindle nose threads. If you do not have enough chucks and faceplate and dog (catch) plate, you will be making your own backing plates bored and threaded to fit that spindle nose. I have found the LeBlond spindle nose thread is coarse enough that chucks seem to break loose and unscrew fairly easily. LeBlond (I believe, but could be wrong on this) appeared to have put a slight taper on the thread to make starting a chuck or faceplate on the spindle threads a bit easier. As coarse as the thread is, it seems to make up easily and break loose easily when I remove chucks or faceplate or the dog/catch plate. When I found my own 13" Roundhead Regal, it was sitting in a shop that was chuck full of machine tools and old car parts and assorted junk. It was literally packed in and buried, and the guy who owned it and put it there was dead for about 10 years at the time. I was concerned that the chuck might be frozen on the spindle. After we dug a path to the lathe, we found all the tooling hanging on the wall above it, or under the bed- along with a Model A engine block and all sorts of car parts and tons of nuts, bolts, old sparkplugs and similar. I did find the chuck key for the three jaw chuck that was on the spindle. I put the lathe into its lowest speed, and stuck a short bar across the face of the chuck. With a little "oomph" and no serious force on that bar, the chuck broke loose on the spindle threads. I was surprised at how easily it happened. The three jaw chuck is about 10" diameter, and the bar I used was probably 18=20" long.
When I make up chucks or similar on the spindle nose threads, I make sure they are clean and well lubed, including the register (unthreaded portion of the spindle nose which enters a chuck backplate or faceplate to establish concentricity with the spindle).
The tailstock on my own 13" Regal has been hard used to the point that the tailstock spindle clamp will hardly lock the spindle. There is some slop in the bore of the tailstock body and some perceptible "drop" in the tailstock quill vs headstock spindle centerline. However, when I start a center drill, I can see the center drill "pull in to center". Putting in a center with a combination center drill, even with the "drop" of the tailstock spindle, I have done some very fine work. Recently, I made two bearing quills out of 3" aluminum round stock, boring them for light drive fits with ball bearings. Initially, I supported the pieces on the tailstock center, and turned a "spot" to support the work on the steady rest for the drilling and boring operations. I was able to hold within a few tenths of a thousandth for the counterbored diameters to hold the outer races of the bearings, and I turned each piece end-for-end in the lathe to bore each end. Assembled into what I was building, the shafts ran dead true in those bearings and a set of spur gears put on the shafts runs smoothly. I would not be too put out by what appears to be a sloppy tailstock. I bucked the tailstock in for each longer between-centers turning job and the lathe holds good accuracy. The bedways are worn up close to the chuck such that the frosted scraping is long gone. If I lightly clamp the carriage locking screw so a very slight drag is felt up by the headstock, in about 16-18", I cannot move the carriage. Despite this, the lathe has not failed to turn out fine work.
100 bucks for the 17" Roundhead Regal, with what is shown in the photo and delivered is a pretty good deal whether in the USA or Canada. No more Roundhead Regals are being made, and they are a nice size/design of geared head lathe for a home shop. Easy enough to move, and a pleasure to use. Respect the Roundhead Regal's limitations as to light gearing in the headstock, and you are home free.
Before buying the lathe, ask the seller if you can open the top cover of the headstock. It is just (4) socket head capscrews, and the gasket- if it is factory original- will be compressed cork doped with gasket shellac. You may have to tap on the headstock cover with a dead blow hammer or similar to get it to break loose. Once you open the headstock, roll the handwheel (on the drive pulley shaft) by hand and inspect ALL the gearing with a good light (like a small "Mag" type light) for broken/damaged teeth. Go fishing with a mechanic's magnet (on a telescoping wand, sold in auto parts stores) in the headstock oil and see if you pull up any shard of busted gear teeth. Some steel filings on the magnet are expectable, but any shard of steel mean a further inspection is required. As long as ALL the teeth are on ALL the gears, you are likely OK. Some chipped teeth or partially busted off teeth are something to be aware of. These can be dressed off with a die grinder to eliminate sharp edges, but there is no putting back missing steel.
If the seller will not allow you to open the headstock, either run the lathe under power in ALL speed settings and listen for sounds of damaged gearing. Clicks or uneven sound is a sign of damaged gear teeth. If you cannot run the lathe under power or open the headstock, then at least pull the headstock over by hand using the handwheel in ALL speeds. Also engage the power feeds and lead screw (sliding gear down by the RH end of the quick change box, gearing the lead screw to the feed shaft). Make sure all the different feeds and half nuts work as they should. SOme slop and wear in any old lathe is a given, but damage such that power feeds or threading functions do not work or damaged gearing in the headstock are show stoppers.