1940's LeBlond Lathe, chuck thread type? - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by john.k View Post
    The ring has a very coarse thread,and any kind of thin oil should run into the joint easily.........so I suggest you give it a soak in acetone/auto trans fluid for a few days,then give the ring spanner a whack............I would use a hard hammer too ,for the shock effect..........it that doesnt work,try some heat on the ring ,as in oxy torch .....strong heat for a minute of so,the hit the spanner.
    Thumbnail above with nut tabulated drawing shows the L1 to have 6 TPI

  2. #22
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    L spindle back plates are getting hard to find. L00 and L0 still seem to be available but L1 to L3 are not easy to get. Bison and Rohm still make them I think but the price will floor you. Depending on the size 3 jaw you need you can chuck the 3 jaw in the 4 jaw chuck you have mounted and have an adjustable 3 jaw chuck.

  3. #23
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    You really need chucks with the taper inside the body,otherwise the long taper makes overhang excessive............I m pretty sure Pratt/Burnerd still list the taper chucks....which all leads to the fact that the old four bolt flange was the best cost effective chuck mounting........my favorite is the Lang setup,a short taper ,equal to the camlock taper,but four studs and a slotted plate behind the flange.....called a J series ,maybe.

  4. #24
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    Being that the spindle is L1 his best option is to stick with L1. I have had quite a few machines with L tapers. I liked them, very strong. Most of the L tapered chucks were with back plates, I had no problem with them. I had a Heavy Duty 42" Leblond with L3 spindle, Bison brand 4 jaw chuck Chuck with back plate. Had no problem with it!


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