1950 Sidney

monty1 · Nov 15, 2011

Hello all, I have recently purchased a 1950s vintage Sidney Herringbone 16 x 60 in lathe. :smitten:

Runs extremely quiet! Needs some lens covers on controls and some work in the carriage, threads and feeds work, just some looseness that can be repaired.

The question is finding a parts/service manual. Anyone have reprint or pdf for this year?

A good cleaning and a coat of paint coming for my new winter project!

Thanks for any and all replies or info.

Herb

SouthBendModel34 · Nov 15, 2011

Monty1:

That is one MASSIVE lathe. Everything looks very strong. You can make some serious chips with that.

John Ruth

Mulva · Nov 15, 2011

is that the one i saw on ebay about a month ago? it looked like a decent deal if I remember correctly.

for manuals, i dont have anything for such a new one.

b2major9th · Nov 15, 2011

Wow, congratulations on acquiring that great lathe! I have a 1944 spur gear head Sidney, and it is a wonderful, RIGID machine. I'm sure yours is even better. Those herringbone gear heads are phenomenal. I'd love to have one someday. The beds, and other castings on Sidney lathes are massive, and significantly overbuilt (by today's standards!). Please share more pictures when you get a chance!

Regards,

Mike

monty1 · Nov 15, 2011

It is the same one that was ebay. I had been looking for another bigger faster heavier lathe in that vintage. I did go see a machine dealer in a nearby town- he told me about it and that the inner ways had been ground out a little. Which does not hurt a operation just aesthetics. I also found a1962 American Pacemaker 14 x 54 in western NY, and was in hard pursuit of that machine when this Sidney popped up on eBay. Thinking there cant be 2 of these so close together- it has to be the machine that I didn't call on.I looked at it on a Sun. bought it and a Reid surface grinder for a good deal with cash money.

monty1 · Nov 15, 2011

As far as manuals go I would like to get a parts book. Get an idea how to remove the apron from the machine. Perhaps the older machines were similar in construction in that area.

Mike C. · Nov 15, 2011

I run one identical to this, but with a shorter bed. Superb machine. It's a 46 model, but identical down to the leadscrew reverse and stops. Sadly, it is our metallizing spray machine. I hate it is in this duty, but it had been pulling this job for several years before I got there. The hardened ways don't seem to be affected by the dust, but I try to keep it wiped and oiled much as possible.

monty1 · Nov 19, 2011

A few pics from this A.M. removed headstock cover to inspect. Also removed oil filter. It only had paint flakes in it. Interesting (to me) the oil filter has a rotating piece that is made up of stacked thin steel plates. Anytime the headstock turns the plates turn , cleaning the filter body of any debris. Genius! One just has to remove the filter cove once in a while and clean the housing. No purchasing of sock filters or extra parts.

The entire headstock is very clean has some sludge on the bottom. The herringbone gears are immaculate. The gear train is set up like a Roadranger truck transmission. The gears are in constant mesh and just a straight tooth clutch gear slides back and forth to lock gears in place to the shaft.
The speed selection mechanism is interesting also. There are two cast rotating wheels that have notches in them. As you turn the outer handle, the wheels revolve, pushing the larger shift levers sideways to change speed. Clever!

To be continued-

monty1 · Nov 25, 2011

apron parts

deeper into the beast-

a little common sense and observation goes a long way. now have the apron apart, the sliding feed gear is worn on the inside also very bad in the keys, the long shaft has negligible wear- a few thou. in the key way. the shift yoke that changes in and out for feed is worn, that I believe I can repair here. numerous needle roller bearing all of which will be replaced. the ratchet feed clutches are excellent.

continued-

johnoder · Nov 25, 2011

Here is two differing threads, one is fixing up a double bevel (including replacing the key) and the the other is "shoeing" the related shifting fork. This is Lodge and Shipley, Sidney may have used similar ideas on the key installation.

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...ry/rework-l-s-apron-double-bevel-gear-162182/

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...ory/shoeing-shifting-forks-159832/#post911532

J.O.

rvannatta · Nov 26, 2011

monty1 said:
Hello all, I have recently purchased a 1950s vintage Sidney Herringbone 16 x 60 in lathe. Runs extremely quiet! Needs some lens covers on controls and some work in the carriage, threads and feeds work, just some looseness that can be repaired.

The question is finding a parts/service manual. Anyone have reprint or pdf for this year?

A good cleaning and a coat of paint coming for my new winter project!

Thanks for any and all replies or info.

Herb

Sidney makes a fairly good lathe. I've not a cone head of the 25"x120" kind
and heavy seems to be the password.

monty1 · Nov 27, 2011

bevel gear and motor mount

I did find out why the v belts were loose in the headstock. Seems there was a pivot mounting boss that was broken. I have welded cast before, I do not like to braze weld cast, have had much better luck with Cronatron 211, either tig rod or covered stick rod. The tig rod can either tig or gas weld.
The motor mount plate is an inch thick and about 18 in square with a 3/4 in rod that it swings on. The broken piece sparked red with stars. I tried the 211 with flux- the welds cracked. Used the stick 211- the welds cracked. Usually do dot have to preheat. The 211 would not wet properly. In the fridge for the old standby- 7018. Used stringer beads, chipped enough to peen lightly. The pic shows result. Did not have the death call - 'tink'. The plate must have been a cast iron semi steel of some sort. I did grind a little on the inside for a little run over. Should last another 50 yrs! :cheers:

The other pic is the sliding bevel gear. It has a bronze sleeve inside with the keys in that. I have some head scratching to redo that bushing. The sleeve gear is hardened and shows very little wear in the shift groove. The last pic is not the best.

rvannatta · Nov 27, 2011

monty1 said:
I did find out why the v belts were loose in the headstock. Seems there was a pivot mounting boss that was broken. I have welded cast before, I do not like to braze weld cast, have had much better luck with Cronatron 211, either tig rod or covered stick rod. The tig rod can either tig or gas weld.
The motor mount plate is an inch thick and about 18 in square with a 3/4 in rod that it swings on. The broken piece sparked red with stars. I tried the 211 with flux- the welds cracked. Used the stick 211- the welds cracked. Usually do dot have to preheat. The 211 would not wet properly. In the fridge for the old standby- 7018. Used stringer beads, chipped enough to peen lightly. The pic shows result. Did not have the death call - 'tink'. The plate must have been a cast iron semi steel of some sort. I did grind a little on the inside for a little run over. Should last another 50 yrs!

The other pic is the sliding bevel gear. It has a bronze sleeve inside with the keys in that. I have some head scratching to redo that bushing. The sleeve gear is hardened and shows very little wear in the shift groove. The last pic is not the best.

The Cromation 211 is about a 50% Nickel rod from what I can learn.
We've used some near 100% nickle rods for difficult cast welding-- It's softer
weld without preheat, after about a 1" of bead, stop and peen aggressively.
We use an air scaler to savethe arm, but if 7018 does the job, you can't beat that.

nsfr1206 · Nov 28, 2011

Your lathe looks a lot like mine except speed change levers are totally different. Even the same size I believe. Did you get two tailstocks with it :confused:

. Didn't think so but it doesn't hurt to ask

.

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