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300lb. Beaudry Power Hammer rebuild complete... video!

Salem Straub

Cast Iron
Joined
May 22, 2012
Location
WA, USA
Hi folks, you may recall my long running and picture heavy thread detailing the rebuild process on this power hammer I got in June 2017. That thread is messed up now, since a bunch of the picture links died and I can't edit new ones in...
So I figured I'd start a new thread to show you guys how the machine has been working for me. It wasn't a rattlecan type rebuild, didn't include a paint job at all in fact, but the working parts are in good order now and it's already gotten a good start on paying itself off!
Anyway, hope you enjoy this vid of my newest old iron, resurrected.

 
Congratulations on your successful rebuild.

There is a lot of movement in your sow block. What do you have between your anvil and the foundation?
 
I was following your previous thread on this hammer but, knowing very little about blacksmithing, I wondered why this machine was worth all the work you were putting into it. Now I understand.

Also, this is also one of the best explanatory videos I've seen...
 
A lot of thought packed into a few moving parts. Large mass and high energy require a lot of attention and respect.

That's true! There were a lot of other mechanical hammer designs, hundreds in fact in the US over time- this stands out as one of the very best for a few reasons. The frame, unlike many of the Little Giant/Champion/Fairbanks types, is much more akin to a single steam hammer frame, such as the early Rigby, Massey, Chambersburg, or Niles Bement hammers... a square, tapering arch with the ram guides cast in massively befitting their importance, with heavy adjustability built in. So too, with the two piece design. This is certainly found in heavier mechanical hammers of other makes, but the orientation of the long axis of the dies on the Beaudry makes more sense to me, considering the direction of rotation of all the spinning mass in the power train. There's less side-kick to the stroke if the guides are not perfectly tight, and I'd think less wear and strain on moving parts with the rotary and reciprocating movements co-planar with each other and with the long axis of the dies.
The common problem found by hammer designers was how to provide for longer stock to clear the frame during forging- often the answer arrived at borrowed from Massey or Niles design, just turning the dies 20-30 degrees out of line with the main frame standard. Great for a steam hammer, with no rotary mass above being converted to reciprocating motion... On a Beaudry, the dies are inline with, but offset from, the main standard. The least attractive solution, to my mind, is that found on early Little Giants as well as the Bradley Compact and DuPont Fairbanks hammers, that of a hole through the frame in line with the dies.
Also the brake, being an integral part of the design, is quite robust and works very well. This gives comparatively excellent control. Not only is the ram height adjustable, but so is the stroke length, which many mech hammers fail to provide.
The spring-ram system of the linkage is ingenious, in that it's extremely robust as well as eliminating a lot of the wear points one sees with DuPont type linkages- in which all too often the necessary maintenance consists of directly oiling all of the friction points. Not only that, but the tension of the linkage is easily and symmetrically adjustable- the lack of which consideration is another common failing in lesser designs.
If I had to gripe about one thing, it's that Beaudry skimped a little bit on the weight of their anvil/sow in relation to the tup weight of the hammer. You really have to bolt the anvil down hard on quite a good foundation to get it not to move. One always sees these set up with tons of wood wedges in the gap between anvil and frame- later models had an included steel ring to take up the space, which I'm thinking of studying and fabricating for my own hammer.
In my case, I set the hammer and anvil down together on a gasket pad of 1-1/8" plywood. This causes some bounce currently, as the wood under the anvil is in the process of crushing. If this does not improve over time, perhaps I will go as far as jacking and blocking the machine up an inch or two, removing the ply from under the anvil base, and retrofitting Fabreeka shock mat in there. I'd have done that to begin with, but the price on that stuff is a bit shocking and wasn't in the reasonable budget...
 
That was a fun read! A lot of what I was just yammering on about is contained within that ad copy, unique design etc.
There are a few little things about those early hammers that changed by the time mine came around... 1917 is what I was told my year would have been, by a knowledgeable fellow.
That's one of the best things about old iron... it's amazing to imagine what was happening in Boston in 1917 when this beast rolled off the floor into the world.
I have fun imagining back with my 1911 Hendey tiebar, too... and my 1906 Little Giant 50 lb. power hammer.
 
Being so early its good it has not been melted down.

Is there any modern replacement hammer available today? and what would be the cost?

I'm sure quite a lot of the old hammers, much like other machines, were melted down. I hate to think of it.
As far as hammers today, mechanicals in this size are not made anymore. In fact, mechanicals in general are not made on a production basis with cast frames now at all, as far as I know... there is a small cottage industry of building "tire hammers" which are smaller mechanicals, in fabrication shops, with a normal ceiling of around 100 lbs. ram weight and often lower.
To buy a new hammer in the 300 lb. class, you'd be looking at a self-contained pneumatic hammer from an overseas concern such as Anyang, and they currently, other than special orders perhaps, are only exporting hammers up to 240 lbs. tup weight to the US. I'd imagine the price tag, with shipping from China, would exceed $20K handily for a 300 lb. Anyang.
In the US we are left with new smaller Chinese, very small shop made, or old and big US made mostly.
 
This line drawing from the 1901 Paris show is enlarged to illustrate how the hammer operates. The two long legs, d and d are spring material made from Swedish Steel. Rollers attached to the legs snap into the detent within the cavity to power the hammer up or down. On the down stroke as the hammer impacts the forging the rollers will move out of the detent position as the hammer rebounds upwards. The rollers will move back to the detent position and move the hammer up to prepare for the next cycle. The rollers and cavity are the heart of the hammer and need to be clean and lubricated.
View attachment 222894View attachment 222895View attachment 222896View attachment 222897
Paris 1901.jpgFoundation and Anvil.jpg1913 Peerless.jpgRochester 1913.jpg
Beaudry also made a smaller hammer, the Peerless.
Look how much floor space the Rochester hammer eats up.

That's about all I could find. Didn't look for the patent but there must be one. The information was posted to and reviewed
by various trade publications and did not come from advertisements. That being said, sometimes the topic was repeated and the source was Beaudry, but not always. The first references to Beaudry started around 1896 and ended about 1922.
A nice compact hammer with a minimum of parts and designed for a small footprint.
 
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The two long legs, d and d are spring material made from Swedish Steel. Rollers attached to the legs snap into the detent within the cavity to power the hammer up or down. On the down stroke as the hammer impacts the forging the rollers will move out of the detent position as the hammer rebounds upwards. The rollers will move back to the detent position and move the hammer up to prepare for the next cycle. The rollers and cavity are the heart of the hammer and need to be clean and lubricated.

That was an early design... most of the hammers made were of the later type, which had no detent in the center of the ram. There are just smoothly elliptical tracks inside the ram. I'd be interested to run one with that early type of detent ram...

The hammers commonly referred to as Beaudry "Utility" hammers use the same spring-ram principle but with a different configuration, using coil springs up top and tracks/arms on the outside of the ram. They were made up to 100 lbs. ram weight... here's a pic of that.

DSC04208.jpg
 
The "Modern Shop Practice" series should be in the library of any serious student of manufacturing in metal. I have most of the volumes of a later version from 1944. Excellent doesn't begin to describe these books.
 
That was an early design... most of the hammers made were of the later type, which had no detent in the center of the ram. There are just smoothly elliptical tracks inside the ram. I'd be interested to run one with that early type of detent ram...

The hammers commonly referred to as Beaudry "Utility" hammers use the same spring-ram principle but with a different configuration, using coil springs up top and tracks/arms on the outside of the ram. They were made up to 100 lbs. ram weight... here's a pic of that.

DSC04208.jpg

Same concept as the original design but inverted like a belly button. An outie instead of an innie :D
 








 
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