7 B&S to ER32 chuck

Spyderedge · Mar 31, 2014

I was given a BP M head :blahblah:

long story short it came with a few collets so I bought some from china wonderland and they frankly suck. They are too long (counterbore fixed that) and they spin in the spindle. Big problem! If you cant tighten them they are garbage. So I have been looking for better collets but the ones from hardinge are way too expensive.

I found a 7 BS to ER32 collet chuck and wanted to know your guys opinion.

looks nice, but I'm wondering if it will spin in the spindle like the others.

Brown and Sharpe 7 ER32 Collet Chuck | eBay

Thanks.

L Vanice · Mar 31, 2014

Looks like just what you want. It will be Chinese, but the seller seems to guarantee it works in an M head. You will lose some headroom compared with the 7B&S collets.

I have three old Hardinge USA 7B&S collets for sale. The sizes are 1/8, 3/16 and 5/16 and condition is excellent. Price for all three is $50 including insured shipping in the USA.

Larry

Spyderedge · Mar 31, 2014

L Vanice said:
Looks like just what you want. It will be Chinese, but the seller seems to guarantee it works in an M head. You will lose some headroom compared with the 7B&S collets.

I have three old Hardinge USA 7B&S collets for sale. The sizes are 1/8, 3/16 and 5/16 and condition is excellent. Price for all three is $50 including insured shipping in the USA.

Larry

View attachment 103710 View attachment 103711

I appreciate the offer, but I have the 1/8" and 5/16" collets already and rarely have a need for 3/16 endmills. Post a for sale ad if you have not already, they will sell like hotcakes.

stephen thomas · Mar 31, 2014

For the price i'd probably try it. Unless it is made in India. Then not a chance. I'd definitely tack a chance on Taiwan, and "probably" take a small bet like that on spindle tooling from China.

If the collets are spinning, are there possibly some small burrs or other difficult-to-inspect damage in the spindle itself? B & S 7 should be even grippier than MT. Are the threads on the draw-bar too short, or is a thrust washer (spacer) missing under the drawbar nut?

smt

quasi · Apr 1, 2014

I use Chinese B&S in my M head, they were to long as well. Once shortened they work fine. Thanks for the Ebay heads up.

Spyderedge · Apr 1, 2014

stephen thomas said:
For the price i'd probably try it. Unless it is made in India. Then not a chance. I'd definitely tack a chance on Taiwan, and "probably" take a small bet like that on spindle tooling from China.

If the collets are spinning, are there possibly some small burrs or other difficult-to-inspect damage in the spindle itself? B & S 7 should be even grippier than MT. Are the threads on the draw-bar too short, or is a thrust washer (spacer) missing under the drawbar nut?

smt

The thing is, I have no ER32 collets. So if i go for it I got to get the whole shebang....

I have thought about a burr in the spindle, but all the collets that came with it work beautifully. Except the 1/8" one...hmm.

Anyone have experience with MSC's taper reamers? Brown & Sharpe Taper Reamers | MSCDirect.com

And yes, I believe I do have the drawbar washer. I'll check tomorrow.

Thanks!

steamachine · Apr 2, 2014

I also have an M head and will consider the ER 32 chuck although I do think an ER 25 collet capacity would be more appropriate for an M head with a 1/2" capacity. I'm always amused by sellers who promote their products by stating they will increase the capacity of your machine not realizing that, in some cases, the machine was never designed for that increased capacity. One thing that irks me about using an ER chuck on my Rockwell mill is that the collets are metric and although the range is wide enough to grip imperial shanks, The shanks are usually on the loose side, making one need a third hand to catch the end mill when it falls at the slightest loosening of the collet. So, shop carefully for the collets and buy inperial sizes if you can.

Todd

traditional-tools · Apr 2, 2014

steamachine said:
One thing that irks me about using an ER chuck on my Rockwell mill is that the collets are metric and although the range is wide enough to grip imperial shanks, The shanks are usually on the loose side, making one need a third hand to catch the end mill when it falls at the slightest loosening of the collet. So, shop carefully for the collets and buy inperial sizes if you can.

Todd,

ER collets are widely available in inch sizes, and you can get imports for about $10/ea. Othere vary in price to about $25-$30 each for better quality ones.
Cheers,
Alan

Metalo · Apr 4, 2014

does anyone know if a similar ER collet chuck can be had with a B&S #9 ?

dangerdawg · Apr 10, 2014

I'm the guy selling the er32 collet chucks on fee-bay. I got a nice M head for a good price, with 1 3/8" bs7 collet. Started looking for collets. Wasn't too happy with the selection. So I made up some drawings, researched sources and had some samples made. They came out pretty darn good so I ordered some to sell to other folks in my situation. Yes, they are Chinese. You can get good stuff from the Chinese, you just have to pay a fair price for it, just like everywhere else in the world. You can buy world class machine tools from China, they just cost as much as they do here, so there is no demand. Anyhoo, these are good quality chucks. Not great, but definitely not crappy. It didn't seem to make much sense to spec a hardinge grade tool for 50 year old machines. They quality spec is right about where it should be. Concerning the "increased capacity", I guess I just assumed that if you have an M head or similar machine, you know it's limits. I do. You're obviously not going to able to use a 3" shell mill on steel. But you could on plastic, if that's what you wanted to do. So, I wanted a BS7-ER32 chuck, couldn't find any, had some made and thought maybe I'm not the only guy that wants one. They're good chucks.

dangerdawg · Apr 10, 2014

Forgot to mention, I am in the process of ordering a batch of BS9-ER32 chucks. 90 days lead time. Speaking of lead time, it took 6 months from idea to delivery of the BS7 chucks. Lots of issues. Translation issues, email problems, don't even get me started on the joys of international shipping and US customs, that was a son of a bitch.

Spyderedge · Apr 10, 2014

dangerdawg said:
Forgot to mention, I am in the process of ordering a batch of BS9-ER32 chucks. 90 days lead time. Speaking of lead time, it took 6 months from idea to delivery of the BS7 chucks. Lots of issues. Translation issues, email problems, don't even get me started on the joys of international shipping and US customs, that was a son of a bitch.

I appreciate your response DD.
Completely agree with the oversize tooling, but it would come to an advantage. I have a 5/8" shank Weldon 1 3/8" dovetail cutter that that would be very handy to use.
Cant take heavy cuts, but light cuts are better for an antique head anyway.

dangerdawg · Apr 10, 2014

What actually started this was that I needed a boring bar. You can get 1/2" shank boring bars, but they're not that good, and kinda scarce. You can get a decent boring bar with a 3/4" shank, so I thought well I'll just get and er32 chuck. Wrong, there's no such thing.

peterh5322 · Apr 10, 2014

I have and use an MT3 to ER32 collet chuck from the same (or, certainly, a similar) source, and it is A-OK in my book.

Zero runout on the ER32 taper.

Constructed my own drawbar from an 11" long hex head common bolt with the requisite thread and a shop-made stepped collar for the left end of my lathe's spindle.

I also have ER16 collets in both inch series and metric series, in all sizes, and I use those in an ER16 to 3/4" collet chuck, with the same very, very acceptable runout.

I value the ER32 for its larger capacity, and the collet depth is more than enough for the Oilite bearing adaptations which my usual shop duties impose on me.

Before ER32, I was using mainly Sjogren 2 (AKA 2J), and very occsionally 5C.

quasi · Apr 11, 2014

I just got my chuck in the mail. It looks nice and shipping was very fast to Kanada.

dangerdawg · Jan 17, 2016

If it's not obvious already, the BS #9 fell through. Haven't completely given up on it (yet), but don't hold your breath.

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