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Brown and Sharpe #2L

caf

Plastic
Joined
Sep 7, 2013
Location
Tennessee
I recently came across a Brown and Sharpe #2L surface grinder that is for sale. I have several questions regarding the machine. One problem I already know I have with it is that its magnetic chuck was taken apart.

What is the difference in the #2L vs. the other B&S #2 surface grinders?

What age might this machine be?

Anything I need to look for prior to purchasing such a machine.

What would be the value of the machine? They are asking $300

Would this be a good machine for a hobbyist shop, I have a South bend 13in lathe and a Bridgeport J head Mill already. I would like to have a decently equipped shop some day and I am slowly trying to add to it. .

Could I repair the chuck and if so how much might it cost or would I need to repair the machine

Does anyone have a copy of the Manual for the machine I saw the manual on the internet but was quite high?

I appreciate all the help and input I can get.
 
I recently came across a Brown and Sharpe #2L surface grinder that is for sale. I have several questions regarding the machine. One problem I already know I have with it is that its magnetic chuck was taken apart.

What is the difference in the #2L vs. the other B&S #2 surface grinders?

What age might this machine be?

Anything I need to look for prior to purchasing such a machine.

What would be the value of the machine? They are asking $300

Would this be a good machine for a hobbyist shop, I have a South bend 13in lathe and a Bridgeport J head Mill already. I would like to have a decently equipped shop some day and I am slowly trying to add to it. .

Could I repair the chuck and if so how much might it cost or would I need to repair the machine

Does anyone have a copy of the Manual for the machine I saw the manual on the internet but was quite high?

I appreciate all the help and input I can get.


Surface grinders - does it have automatic feeds? If not you will kick yourself for not holding out for one that does.

Magnetic Chucks - two types are common, perminate magnet - if the magnets/ parts are present and strong clean it up and put it back together.
Electromagnetic - see if the coils are burned up. If so, get a new one. Diodes you can probably deal with. Either way, once its remounted, dust the top with the grinder and get it paralell with the ways. Otherwise you will cut nice little tapered parts instead of ones with paralell sides. (the condition of the ways will decide if they are flat)

Afther that - condition. The spindle bearings need to be in good shape and are important if you want to use a grinder to its full potential.
The ways also matter alot. These machines were made to split 0.001 day after day, so they were made to some tight clearances. For the home shop a worn old machine is good for making paralells, flatening thin parts and with a few jigs they are nice for grinding some tools. If you dont need high precision a good used grinder is nice to have around.

An automatic machine usualy has a hydraulic system for the power feeds. Make sure it works. Hydraulic systems are fussy and dont like dirt. Components for old machines can be hard to come by and the clearances involved usualy prevent the home shop guy from making new parts.

If you can inspect it under power make sure all the manual stuff works, then test the automatic stuff, then the manual again.

If you have never used a surface grinder before, be realistic about what kind of cut it will take.
0.0005 is a lot to ask of many grinders. Without power feeds they can get very booring to run.
 
Plain #2 were built from before 1920 to 1953. You'll have to post serial number to give an idea of age. Four digit numbers mean its older than mid thirties.
 
The manual is free on line. If you have not found it yet pm me and I will send a pdf copy. I am having to replace the table rack(and possibly the drive gear later) due to loss of teeth - The Tooth Pitch is DP10, but do you know the PA by any chance?
 
...If you have never used a surface grinder before, be realistic about what kind of cut it will take.
0.0005 is a lot to ask of many grinders. ....


I have a Boyar Shultz 612 which is a pretty light grinder.
I have no problem taking .020" without coolant for a roughing pass.
Don't let the limits of your experience influence someone else from developing their skills.
Grinding is a pretty large subject to get good at.

-Doozer
 
You can download a manual here: http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/2185/19871.pdf

I have the 2LB. Manual feeds only on mine, but for a hobby machine no problem. A lot of people use machines with no power feed. I believe the L does have power feed though according to the manual.

The spindle bearings are a very important thing. Make sure it runs nice and smooth. It's an older machines so it's going to have wear, but unless it's really bad, it's likely to be OK for us hobbyists.

Price doesn't sound bad to me, especially if it's in decent shape. Maybe the chuck can simply be put back together? Any chuck that's been removed from a machine would need to be dusted anyways, so it's worth a try.

Ted
 
Another thing came to mind... how many, if any, wheel adapters come with it? These things are expensive, like $65 each new. You'll need at least one. I have 4 for different wheels and that works OK for me. Wheels will cost you around $30+ each for decent ones like Norton. You'll need a diamond dresser. If any of this stuff comes with the machine it's a plus.

A surface grinder is a handy thing to have in a hobby shop and certainly worth your consideration.

Ted
 








 
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