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Brown and Sharpe Micromaster 510 - Sleeve - Puller - Parts? Help Please

mikebe

Plastic
Joined
May 18, 2020
Hi All !


i just bought a nicely taken care of B&S 510 Micromaster.


But it is missing documentation (i found brochures and basic information online but no manual)

I would like to know, where i can possibly get a puller for the wheel sleeves or wheel sleeves themselves...

Does someone have an operation manual for this machine? How can i take the sleeve off?

It looks like the sleeve i have fitted is for hub size 51mm - i can acquire a lot of 55 grinding wheels for cheap money but they have a 40mm hub. So a wheel sleeve with 40mm would be great!

thank you for any help in advance!!


Micha
 
Thank You for the quick reply!

I had found this manual too but it entirely only has 12 pages?

The puller looks right - any idea about spare wheel sleeves? are the interchangable between machines are there OEM manufactoreres that still make them?

thanks
Micha
 
They are called wheel mounts and wheel adapters. There are two most common kinds with the Brown and Sharpe style having 1" at the big end of the taper, and the Cincinnati style having 7/8" at the big end. Good to inspect a wheel-mount to see the counter bore is deep enough for the nut to get enough thread turns (about 4 to 8 turns ok and the spindle taper end deeper.

I tighten the wheel nut with a standard wrench as tight as I can with a hand on the wheel and a hand on the wrench, then set the wrench end on a block and with tow hands on the wheel make a little tighter. Most standard wrenches for a small grinder are 6" or 7" long (Don’t use a helper bar on a wrench or a long rachet wrench with a socket. and never hammer on a spindle)
For the spindle end nut, I put a short length 3/8 Allen wrench sideways in the end of a standard wrench and with only one hand twist of the wrist make tight.
Doing this way, I have never had a wheel spin on the mount and have never had trouble removing a wheel or mount.

Oh, and both the spindle end nut and the wheel nut should be so it will tighten with the wheel rotation direction. most often that is left hand threads (and sparks travel to the left).
Tap each wheel on the side to hear it ring. This assures that it has no cracks.

The wheel truing diamond should be set in its block holder at about 15-20 degrees angle so it can be turned to a new facet when it gets rounded. I prefer a 3/8 or 1/2" shank diamond. sticking out 1" or less. You double clamp the dresser to a block or the like to dress far above the chuck.
Good to put a mount-up line on a wheel blotter at first mounting so at next mounting you may have less dressing of the wheel.
Good to stop/off coolant before stopping the wheel, this to clear the wheel of most coolant. Coolant can dry in a wheel and make it run out of balance.
 
Last edited:
Thank You for the quick reply!

I had found this manual too but it entirely only has 12 pages?

The puller looks right - any idea about spare wheel sleeves? are the interchangable between machines are there OEM manufactoreres that still make them?

thanks
Micha

Sopko makes excellent new wheel adapters for most machines and US eBay probably has lots of B&S adapters. I bought most of my adapters on eBay, often with wheels still mounted on them. In the USA, surface grinder wheels for the B&S grinders and others of similar size usually have a 7 inch outer diameter and a 1.25 inch (31.75 mm) bore, so most Sopko B&S adapters are made to fit that size wheel. But they do make adapters for larger bore wheels.

Note that the Sopko catalog has dimensioned drawings of their adapters.

The Sopko adapters: William Sopko & Sons Co., Inc - Standard Taper Wheel Adapters

Sopko product index: Alphabetical Index

Here are pictures of two wheel changing wrenches and two adapter pullers that fit my B&S No. 2 surface grinder. The puller with LV on it is one I made when I first got the grinder. Later, I found a factory made puller, the dark one. The Parker Majestic wrench has the small end made to remove the nut from the end of the grinder spindle. The Sopko wrench has the small end made to operate the screw on the puller.

Larry

DSC01841.jpg DSC01842.jpg
 
WOW!

Gentlemen,

i am overwhelmed with all this feedback to my question. this is truly a forum of real enthusiasts! 4 replys in less than 12 hours! :cloud9:


with all the information i figured out how to pull of my grinder wheel. it was a simple task - yet you have to understand how it is mounted - and i was in fear that the european adaption of the machine e.g. power & several nuts and bolts - but not all - are metric - and therefore might be different.

and i didnt want to do any damage....

great help - thanks to all replys. :)


i have to look into all the information - i right now would really like to buy the 50 new +15 used grinding disks from a swiss manufacturer - priced for virtually nothing. Thus them not being 2" but 40mm.

i own the 2" wheel mount/adapter or as named in the B&S leaflet "wheel sleeve" - just to let you know from where i got the strange terminology.... i think it will be worth making or have made a "special" 40mm adapter for the grinding discs.


Anyway i believe in german precision engineering - but this machine from B&S that i bought just proved to be 1/100mm accurate on a test grind piece - right after delivery. with absolutely no adjustments done(i also got a balancing kit for discs etc...)
and this being (i believe +40 years old?) there is no year on the machine - can i find out by the serial no. when it was made?

wow!

i love old machines (cars included)


Mike

I will most often be using it for grinding knife surfaces... it is a hobby/passion.... have i mentioned that?
 
btw

if somebody has a recommendation on what to buy (used or new) so that i can fit the 40mm discs on a wheel adaptor (i can mill them down to correct size on my 1920´s lathe)

i wold really appreciate any links etc..


my spindle / wrong my current perfectly fitting wheel adapter is 1" on the large side. it is appox 1/4 inch away from the largest part of the spindle.


thanks again

Mike
 
mikebe,
You might post some photos of your knife set-ups...
Welcome to PM
Buck

Post the serial number of your machine... there are tables of serial numbers which will tell you the year of manufacture.

If you are checking over the machine it is always good to verify the lubrication system is delivering oil to all the lube points. It is not a lot of fun on that machine to replace the bijur meter fittings though.
 








 
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