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Canedy-Otto #3 Pedestal Grinder

Billygoat

Cast Iron
Joined
Dec 15, 2007
Location
Carnegie, PA
Picked up a Canedy-Otto #3 Pedestal Grinder from Craigslist for next to nothing. Haven't been able to find any info about it other than one vintage ad. Plan to make some modern improvements to make it useable. The flat pulley will be replaced by a v-belt pulley, the Babbitt bearings will be replaced by pillow blocks, guards will be fabricated and an electric motor installed (just like another that I did). Plan to use 12" wheels. Will be a nice machine when I am done.
 

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You can leave the flat belt pulley in place and still run with v-belts as long as the motor pulley is for a v-belt. The crown on the flat belt pulley and the v-belt pulley will keep the belt where it needs to be. I have one similar to the last one in your pictures. Putting pillow blocks on it will kill the charm of your antique iron.
 
Why not buy a modern grinder if that is what you want and leave that one original and sell it to someone who wants a flat belt grinder. I'll come pick it up.
 
I strongly disagree with losing the sleeve bearings. Sleeve bearings are the quietest bearings of all when in good order and properly lubricated.

It's your machine, though, do what you want.

metalmagpie
 
Why not buy a modern grinder if that is what you want and leave that one original and sell it to someone who wants a flat belt grinder. I'll come pick it up.

I would be glad to trade this for a modern grinder. Pedestal with 12" wheels single phase. $1200-$3600. Will have less than $100 in it when I am done. Have the wheels, have the sheaves, have the motor, not sure if I have the pillow blocks and belts but I might. Babbitt bearings are sloppy, 2 of the 4 bearing caps are missing. Pillow blocks are the best alternative.

This grinder is going to see some use. Not just to look at. Combine the old with the new. Making something useable out of a piece that would have probably ended up in the scrap yard if I hadn't saved it. I need to do something with all the parts and stuff I have accumulated.
 
I would glad to trade this for a modern grinder. Pedestal with 12" wheels single phase. $1200-$3600. Will have less than $100 in it when I am done. Have the wheels, have the sheaves, have the motor, not sure if I have the pillow blocks and belts but I might. Babbitt bearings are sloppy, 2 of the 4 bearing caps are missing. Pillow blocks are the best alternative.

This grinder is going to see some use. Not just to look at. Combine the old with the new. Making something useable out of something that would have probably ended up in the scrap yard.

If you keep your eyes open you can find a more modern heavy duty grinder at an auction or equipment sale very reasonable... From time to time I see them show up in the scrap yard however some scrap yards won’t sell back to the general public which may not be an option for you. In my opinion it would be nice to see your grinder put back into service as it was intended but I will admit I am a bit of an antique machine buff and a lean more towards saving machines for their historical value more so than their practicality. Nice looking grinder for sure!
 
I also noted the condition of the top bearing caps on the grinder. Either a previous owner cut the top caps into two pieces each, or, Canedy-Otto designed the grinder with two-piece top caps. On this type/size of grinder, ring oilers were often used. My own Champion Blower & Forge grinder of this same type has babbitted bearings with ring oilers. The condition of the grinder in Billygoat's photos has me wondering whether C-O furnished the grinder with ring oiled bearings. C-O had a reputation, at least for blacksmith shop equipment, of being top of the line. Of the 'big 3' firms in the USA who built large quantities of blacksmith shop equipment (Buffalo Forge, Champion Blower & forge, and, Canedy-Otto), C-O produced the finest and smoothest running of the hand cranked blowers. Their forge fire pot design was also a notch or two above their competitors. It would be in keeping with C-O's reputation for good design to have used ring oilers on the grinder bearings.

Whatever the reasons for the upper caps being about half the length of the lower bearings, running the grinder as it is would result in grit getting onto the arbor journals and chewing up the works. Hence, going to modern sealed bearing pillow block bearings is really the best option, particularly if the OP intends to really use this grinder.

We have had some threads about the need for good wheel guards on grinders, and the effects of a grinding wheel failure (more like an explosion). I would not run this grinder without upgrading to wheel guards, as the OP intends to do.

Plainly, there is a fine balance point between 'historical machinery' vs safety and practicalities. If the OP intends to use this grinder in regular shop service for a grinder of this size, then he is absolutely correct in his approach to retrofitting or upgrading it.

At the end of the day, the reality is that the OP owns the grinder, intends to use it in regular shopwork, and it is his decision as to what he does with the grinder. Having seen the aftermath of a 14" aluminum oxide grinding wheel explosion on an unguarded machine, I would not be at all comfortable in running a grinder with an unguarded wheel. In working shops, as time marched on from the time grinders like the one in this thread were sold new, people did routinely modify them for safety as well as practical reasons (guards, along with going to sealed pillow block bearings and motor drives). How many of us have seen, or own/operate old lineshaft machine tools (lathes being the most common) that have been retrofitted with brackets, old truck transmissions (or Unidrives) and electric motors ? Not too many of us are about to unbolt the brackets and motors and hang line shafting to drive those old machine tools. By the late 1920's and certainly into the '30's, conversion drive systems for lineshaft machine tools were being manufactured and sold. I have no doubt that close to 100 years ago, people were already converting lineshaft driven machine tools into individual motor drives. Historical value becomes a debatable topic.

The other bright side of this thread is the OP got that grinder to USE. Important word. He is not going to retrofit it with a cafe table top and put it in some fancy dwelling place or eaterie. I stand with the OP on this one.
 
I also noted the condition of the top bearing caps on the grinder. Either a previous owner cut the top caps into two pieces each, or, Canedy-Otto designed the grinder with two-piece top caps. On this type/size of grinder, ring oilers were often used. The condition of the grinder in Billygoat's photos has me wondering whether C-O furnished the grinder with ring oiled bearings. It would be in keeping with C-O's reputation for good design to have used ring oilers on the grinder bearings.

Whatever the reasons for the upper caps being about half the length of the lower bearings, running the grinder as it is would result in grit getting onto the arbor journals and chewing up the works. Hence, going to modern sealed bearing pillow block bearings is really the best option, particularly if the OP intends to really use this grinder.

We have had some threads about the need for good wheel guards on grinders, and the effects of a grinding wheel failure (more like an explosion). I would not run this grinder without upgrading to wheel guards, as the OP intends to do.

Plainly, there is a fine balance point between 'historical machinery' vs safety and practicalities. If the OP intends to use this grinder in regular shop service for a grinder of this size, then he is absolutely correct in his approach to retrofitting or upgrading it.
I stand with the OP on this one.

The design of this grinder had 4 bearing caps with Babbitt and no ring oilers. They could have been 2 large caps that had been cut in half but I don't think so. Looks like it was made that way. One of the previous owners removed the 2 inside caps and used the bolt holes to mount some kind of contraption made of steel flat bar and wood to mount a motor above the machine and drive with a flat belt. It was very crude and discarded. You could tell that the wood (oak) was very very old and was installed very long ago (pic).

I stripped and polished the shaft today. It was scored on the bearing surface. Shaft is 1-3/8" and ends are 1-1/4". I will have to see which sheaves I have. Might have to buy a taper lock bushing for 1-3/8". Then I will mill a keyway in the shaft for the sheave.

Thanks for your support.
 

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I can understand needing to get it working and dependable, but I would recommend avoid making permanent changes to it. IOW, bolt the pillow blocks to the frame but use an adapter plate and don't cut the old frame up. Keep the old parts in a box for later.

The machine will likely live longer than you and we've seen too many of these machines end up in the scrap pile because a prior owner made permanent changes for a temporary problem. At a later date, the missing caps can be easily reproduced out of steel and the babbit re-poured.
 
Came back from vacation over Xmas and had some parts waiting for me. A 5" sheave and two 1-3/8" pillow blocks. Milled a keyway in the shaft and mounted everything today. Found a piece of 1/4" plate for the motor and will mount tomorrow. Get a couple v-belts, fab the wheel guards and it will be ready to go.
 

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Finally got around to fabricating some wheel guards. The sacrilege is complete. Works great.
 

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lookslikeanexcellentjobonthosebeltguardsbutthesoupcanlooksabitghettobaybeitgivestheimpressionthatyouarecheapbutotherwiseilikeitveryheavydutydoozer
 








 
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