cost to have a motor rewound

marka12161 · Nov 17, 2018

I know the answer is "It depends" but i'll ask anyway. When i bought the Cleerman drill press it came with a really nice coolant pump set up. I finally got around to getting the grime off of it and when i dug into the wiring i found that the old insulation was brittle and cracking. I tried stripping off some of the old insulation but it's so hard it wont strip off of the copper without breaking it so it needs to be rewired or scrapped.

I don't know if i'll ever use flood coolant but it seems a shame to just scrap the pump and motor so i'm wondering about the approximate cost to re-wire it. Is it $10s, $100s $1000s? If it's 10s of dollars i might consider if more than that, i guess it'll go to scrap unless someone wants it.

Wlodek · Nov 17, 2018

Yes, it depends....mostly on the type and size of the motor and on who is going to do it. Over half a century ago and to get some extra cash while studying I would rewind electric motors at home. Needless to say I did charge much less than electrical shops. Probably things did not change that much in the 21st century, though I think it will hard to find anyone to do any motor for less than $100.00...

gbent · Nov 17, 2018

Does the motor stink like its burned? If not, it probably just needs new leads brought out rather than a complete rewind. Much cheaper if you can find someone to do the job, or do it yourself.

JST · Nov 17, 2018

Many shops just will not do anything smaller than a few HP.... except at a "nuisance extra charge" rate.

Sachmanram · Nov 17, 2018

The last motor that I had rewound, cost me $500.00 CAD. It was a 3HP motor.

Brian

marka12161 · Nov 17, 2018

gbent said:
Does the motor stink like its burned? If not, it probably just needs new leads brought out rather than a complete rewind. Much cheaper if you can find someone to do the job, or do it yourself.

Windings look and smell fine. Is anything special involved in pulling new leads or is it as simple as clipping and soldering on new leads?

atomarc · Nov 17, 2018

If you have a good motor shop nearby they can meg it with a more sophisticated machine that a individual would have and it it's OK they should be able to dip it for a very small fee. This would make it nearly new again.

Stuart

thermite · Nov 17, 2018

marka12161 said:
I know the answer is "It depends" but i'll ask anyway. When i bought the Cleerman drill press it came with a really nice coolant pump set up. I finally got around to getting the grime off of it and when i dug into the wiring i found that the old insulation was brittle and cracking. I tried stripping off some of the old insulation but it's so hard it wont strip off of the copper without breaking it so it needs to be rewired or scrapped.

I don't know if i'll ever use flood coolant but it seems a shame to just scrap the pump and motor so i'm wondering about the approximate cost to re-wire it. Is it $10s, $100s $1000s? If it's 10s of dollars i might consider if more than that, i guess it'll go to scrap unless someone wants it.

Not a question one even needs to ask.

Commodity pumps, Cast-Iron or "the right sort" of durable plastic start around $80- $90 ALL brand-new, not just the motor, and in 3-P or 1-P, most major voltages. Just pick your flange size and depth from flange to pickup.

Balls to the walls CNC run 24 X 5 might wear them out fast enough to still justify "big Name" brands. A smallholder won't likely wear out even a cheap Chinese coolant pump all that fast. The Chinese don't, and their machines ARE run hard.

It happens to be "an industry", and a competitive one, pumps and their replacements.

Joe in NH · Nov 17, 2018

gbent said:
Does the motor stink like its burned? If not, it probably just needs new leads brought out rather than a complete rewind. Much cheaper if you can find someone to do the job, or do it yourself.

Additionally, one can use "Glyptol" and paint the exposed winding (and let it soak into the interstices.) Glyptol was the standard treatment for motors in the power plant. Most motor rebuilds included a winding dip in the Glyptol tank.

Oil impervious, penetrating, I paint Model A transmission cases on the INSIDE with Glyptol as a way to control errant grit or sandblast sand from getting into the geartrain.

Purchasing on Craigslist a "Generator that runs but won't generate" I traced the problem down to a field winding passing through a plastic armature partition. The wire had been "protected" in the hole with a dab of silicone - and as you might expect, the silicone created a hot-spot which caused the wire to burn open at that point. I simply backed the remaining lead back through the hole, took off one complete turn, re-positioned the wire in its original hole, insulated it with a small diameter shrink tube, and re-landed the wire to the field ring. Now many power outages later, the generator still runs fine.

Makes you realize how "flaky" even some "name-brand" are designed/built.

Joe in NH

thermite · Nov 17, 2018

Joe in NH said:
Additionally, one can use "Glyptol" and paint the exposed winding (and let it soak into the interstices.) Glyptol was the standard treatment for motors in the power plant. Most motor rebuilds included a winding dip in the Glyptol tank.

Oil impervious, penetrating, I paint Model A transmission cases on the INSIDE with Glyptol as a way to control errant grit or sandblast sand from getting into the geartrain.

Joe in NH

No harm in trying. I just bought new partly so I didn't REQUIRE 3-Phase, even if I had it "right there". It's just a pump. Needn't be reversible.

CarbideBob · Nov 17, 2018

100's, 1 to 3.
A replacement pump is cheaper unless you need "this one" for some reason.
You can fiddle fart with it for 5 to 40 hours with a maybe.
How much do you make an hour along with the fact that you don't know a need?
A simple fountain pump at Home Depot or HF is cheap but check head height before you go to the lowest cost one.
I'd toss it in the dumpster with no regrets.
I also have done the same with entire B-port mills.
Lord knows I'm all for fixing things but sometimes it is just not worth it.
The one thing you do not get in life is more time.
If the fixing is for the fun of it, then perhaps it becomes time and effort well spent.
Bob

Riderusty · Nov 18, 2018

I see that you are in NY. If you are on or near Long Island and want to talk to a good electric motor guy, visit Gordon McDaniel at McDaniel Motor Repair in Farmingdale. He's repaired some of my older motors, understands the older units and doesn't mind working on them. He's a pleasure to work with, located in Farmingdale.

Tom B.

Aejgx6 · Nov 18, 2018

I have had 1 hp motors rewound for $100 and 40hp rewound for $800

thermite · Nov 18, 2018

CarbideBob said:
The one thing you do not get in life is more time.
If the fixing is for the fun of it, then perhaps it becomes time and effort well spent.
Bob

Seen on a wall sign in a Manhattan biz nearly fifty years ago:

We don't have the time to waste the time to KILL time.

It's New York! We have to WORK IT to death!

Mike C. · Nov 18, 2018

Motor rewinding is 10% materials and 90% labor cost. It takes no less or more time to burn out, cut and strip a 1/4hp stator than a 10hp. In fact, the tiny slots of the small motor make it a royal PITA to wind. I'd count on a minimum of $300 or more. As said above, buy a new pump and only when you need it.

marka12161 · Nov 18, 2018

Guys,

Thanks for all the feedback. A heat gun softened the old insulation enough for me to get it stripped back where i needed to. A little patience, solder, shrink wrap and electrical tape and i think i'm good to go. As some of you know, i'm not a pro so i can afford to screw around with stuff like this.

The Cleerman has about 12 thousands of run out on the spindle so i'll be digging into that to change out the bearings. The table marks suggest someone was running big hole saws at some point in the machines past. Those things tend to walk all over the place so is suspect that's how the bearing s got trashed.

Thanks again.
Mark

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