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Drilling out rivets

Just a Sparky

Hot Rolled
Joined
May 2, 2020
Location
Minnesota
I recently picked up a rare example of a Century repulsion start bench grinder/buffer. Upon inspection it looks as though it has suffered some minor overheating of the commutator. Some solder has flung out from the winding terminations since these were soldered instead of staked on but everything still ohms out just fine.

The other point of concern is that it does not transition from repulsion to induction correctly. It looks like the parallel motion fingers (#32, Pages 12 & 13) have worn down to the point where they no longer make positive contact with the spring barrel ring (#55). I will need to manufacture some replacements, which entails removing the rivets holding the existing ones in place so I can trace them.

Are there any good tricks out there for keeping rivets from spinning while they are being drilled out?
 
They shouldn’t spin of their own accord. Centre punch a divot, go through with a likely size drill. In the worst case maybe you could get needle-nose vise grips to snap just off centre to clear the drill.
 
I have used a small vise grip to grab the head. Sometimes you have to grind the head or rivited end off and just punch them out if they spin.
 
I have used the Green Loctite (self wicking) let is set and used light drill pressure. If it takes a while don't let the rivet get hot, it will loosen the Loctite. If the rivet after drilling will not come out then heat until just about too hot to hold then punch out the rivet.
 
I have used the Green Loctite (self wicking) let is set and used light drill pressure. If it takes a while don't let the rivet get hot, it will loosen the Loctite. If the rivet after drilling will not come out then heat until just about too hot to hold then punch out the rivet.

Sometimes (as in if the gods are smiling on you) super glue does the same job.
 
Sometimes (as in if the gods are smiling on you) super glue does the same job.

i like both ideas the s/g would be faster if it will hold . makes me think of what someone told me one time about why he liked metal working over wood working . i ask why ? his reply the glue drys faster
 
AS True Temper said, it's common, once the head begins to spin, to angle the drill so it acts like a rotary broach, until the head rises on the bit. Much faster than other methods and there is no downside.
 
Another way is to jam the rivet by using a center punch to raise a burr on the head right down near the surface of the plate, so that the expansion jams the rivet against the plate harder. Like "calking" a riveted seam.

Does well with rivets that have worked loose, and since it is outside the drilled area, it can keep the head from spinning as the drill gets close to cutting through.
 
I never tried super glue, kinda don't like the stuff! Every-time I tried it I glued everything except the item I want glued! Loctite works for me, one time I needed a long #47 drill so I took a piece of 3/16 drill rod, used the drill to put about a 3/8 deep hole in it, then put loctite on the drill and hole. Inserted it in and out few times to spread the loctite, an hour later I drilled the hole! Still have the item, used it at least 10 times and still working!
 








 
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