What's new
What's new

Duplex Quincy 210 Compressor

Electrotech

Plastic
Joined
May 22, 2019
Hello, I'm new here and just trying to get some help and info on setting up a new to me old compressor.

Currently I'm running a Home depot Chinese special "husky" branded 60 gallon vertical and I hate using it as it take around 7 minutes to fill and is very loud, most of the time I just use my little pancake unless I really need the cfm.

My buddy has a old Quincy 230 I think and I am always impressed with the amount of air it puts out and how quiet it is. He bought it for a steal non-working and re-built it. So I've been scouring local Craigslist and marketplace looking for a deal on a old Quincy.

I came across this Duplex Quincy 210 set-up for $200. Attached pictures.

I do not have 3 phase power in my garage so I'm limited to 220V, and this set-up has 3 phase Baldor motors.

So I'm trying to figure out what I can do. Obviously I could replace both motors with 220 singe phase motors but then I'm into it for another $400 at least if I buy cheap Chinese motors. My buddy thinks I should just pull one of the Quincy 210 pumps off and install it on my current motor/tank and either sell the other pump and tank and motors or keep the other pump as a spare.

I had a radical idea and don't know if it would work though. Can I rotate one of the pumps 180° and then mount my 3.7Hp motor for my current tank in the middle with a double pulley to run both pumps? Obviously I would need to modify the mounting bracket some to accommodate that. From what I have looked up these pumps require a 1.5-2 HP motor each. I could get a bigger motor pulley and spin the pumps a little slower if I'm short on power.

What do you think?
 

Attachments

  • 01111_egWEQIY735_1200x900.jpg
    01111_egWEQIY735_1200x900.jpg
    80.8 KB · Views: 1,337
  • 00w0w_8srSyShtHtw_1200x900.jpg
    00w0w_8srSyShtHtw_1200x900.jpg
    57.2 KB · Views: 342
  • 01717_9Pk9oqbTbxf_1200x900.jpg
    01717_9Pk9oqbTbxf_1200x900.jpg
    58.9 KB · Views: 312
  • 00606_1PmaeB1H62P_1200x900.jpg
    00606_1PmaeB1H62P_1200x900.jpg
    62.5 KB · Views: 308
Hello, I'm new here and just trying to get some help and info on setting up a new to me old compressor....

I came across this Duplex Quincy 210 set-up for $200. Attached pictures.

So I'm trying to figure out what I can do. ...

....Can I rotate one of the pumps 180° and then mount my 3.7Hp motor for my current tank in the middle with a double pulley to run both pumps? ... I could get a bigger motor pulley and spin the pumps a little slower if I'm short on power.

What do you think?

Double pulley driving both will work, with time and effort. 210's don't put out a lot of air- approx 6-10 cfm @ 90psi, IIRC.

And.... increasing the diameter of the motor pulley increases compressor rpm. Reducing driving dia would decrease driven rpm. A variable pitch double sheave at the motor would allow fine tuning the compressor speed/FLA adjustments (load matching).

Or find a double shafted motor, put it in the middle and drive both compressors from the same motor. :D
 
The Quincy 210 was the smallest recip compressor Quincy built. From the photo, the ones on the unit pictured are quite old as they have the rotary vane type lube oil pumps. Those Quincy compressors had full-pressure lubrication to the crankshaft mains and rod end bearings. They use an oil filter screen, no oil filter with a paper element. The later models in that series went to an internal gear pump for the lube oil, and a small spin-on filter. If the vanes wear out, you are on your own to make new ones as Quincy does not support those older compressors.

The unloader system on that compressor is tied into the lube oil system. When the compressor starts up, there is initially no lube oil pressure. The unloader control and springs hold the intake valves open (the head unloader units). Once lube oil pressure builds, the unloader control will release the intake valves and the compressor starts pumping air. On coast-down, the same process happens. The unloader control will be on the side of the crankcase and is tied into the pressure switch.

The 210 compressors are great little compressors. I own one I got used over 40 years ago, ran it until the lube oil pump vanes gave out. Having an even older Worthington compressor, I put that into use for shop air.

The Quincy compressors really are not made to be sped up to increase air flow. A duplex compressor of the type you picture likely came out of a building's HVAC (heating, ventilating, air conditioning) control system. The setup you picture was made for making "control air". The two motors were worked off a separate controller which usually had a "lead-lag" or "alternator" logic to it. This could run one compressor in the "lead" mode, and if it could not keep up, the second compressor came on line. Or, in the "alternator" mode, it alternated which compressor was next to be started when the pressure switches called for air. This was to equalize run times.

A 210 compressor should not need much of a motor. 1 HP would be plenty for what cfm the compressor produces. A 1725 or 1750 rpm motor is what is needed. These are SLOW turning compressors. Nice and quiet. Very long lived if you take care of them. 200 bucks is a steal, even if you have to buy a motor.

The double shaft idea, unfortunately, will not work. This is because the Quincy compressors can only be turned in one direction due to the lube oil pump and internals. Similarly, reading your post, you cannot rotate one of the compressors 180 degrees to run off the same motor from your old compressor. There are directional arrows on the flywheel pulleys of the Quincy compressors.

About the only way to use your old motor would be kind of a "kluge" or "Rube Goldberg" lashup: namely, you'd need to make a jackshaft driven by belts from the motor. This jackshaft would be run in pillow block bearings and would run at 1:1 with the existing motor shaft speed. Each compressor would then be belted off the jackshaft with pulleys the size of the motor pulley that is now used. In effect, you would be making a "mini line shaft". Cumbersome lashup, for sure. it would also start both compressors in parallel with each other. Chances are the existing setup has two separate tappings on the air tank, each with its own compressor check valve. This lets the compressors push air into the tank independent of each other. If you went for the setup I've described, my own gut sense would be to make an "air manifold" out of a chunk of maybe 3" pipe and a couple of butt weld caps. This manifold would provide a bit of dampening so both compressors could discharge into it without having the pulsations from one compressor's discharge bucking against the other. I use "Thred-O-Lets" (forged steel fittings, tapped for pipe threads, ready made to saddle onto pipes that you then weld in place) and butt weld fittings for this sort of thing as well as for other pipe work.

3.7 HP motor sounds a bit odd for a rating. Is it an imported motor ? If it is 3450 or 3600 rpm, as is used on some of the newer consumer-grade compressors, you will need to have a slower turning pulley to drive the Quincy compressor(s). The flywheels on the Quincy 210's are not all that big. I forget the spec'd maximum rpm on a 210 pump, but it may be down around 450-600 rpm at most. The Quincy 210's "perk along" like an old coffee percolator, nice and slow, and not loud.

My other recommendation is to at least do a hydrostatic (water pressure) test on the air tank before you put the unit into service. We've posted quite a bit on this 'board about the dangers in old/unknown air tanks. They are considered as potential bombs. Condensation from the compressed air corrodes and thins the bottom of the tank, and while the tank appears sound, it can be a real bomb waiting to go off. Ideally, gauging the tank with an ultrasonic thickness gauge (UT) followed by the hydro test are what should be done. The hydro test is done with water and the tank is pumped to 1.25 X working pressure. If anything lets go, it is in "slow motion" with no flying shrapnel- as would be the case if a tank containing compressed air were to rupture. Tanks built under ASME (American Society of Mechanical Engineers) unfired pressure vessel code (there will be a "code plate" tack welded to the tank shell) will be built in a National Board shop and have a registration number, date of manufacturer, maximum allowable working pressure, maximum temperature, and thicknesses of the barrel and heads. Tanks are designed with a minimum factor of safety of 5, which is good and bad. A tank can pass hydro test, but be so thin as to be right on the edge of a failure, and the factor of safety has dropped to 1. While the tank passes its hydro test and does not bulge or rupture, all it takes is a little more corrosion internally in service to have an unexpected tank rupture. Chances are the tank will prove out OK, as these sorts of duplex compressors in HVAC systems usually had automatic tank condensate drains on them. Nice easy service compared to being used in a shop or similar.

As I said, it is a steal at the price, and I'd grab it. Even if you wind up buying a smaller air receiver and new motor, you have a spare compressor. I do not know what your compressed air requirements are. As was noted, the 210 is a SMALL compressor. If you plan on running things like air die grinders, it will not push enough air. It is OK for running a 1/2" air impact wrench in short bursts, or filling car or motorcycle tires. It does not have the cfm for bigger/continuous run air tools and you can go have lunch if you plan to air up a heavy truck or tractor tire.
 
The Quincy 210 was the smallest recip compressor Quincy built. From the photo, the ones on the unit pictured are quite old as they have the rotary vane type lube oil pumps. Those Quincy compressors had full-pressure lubrication to the crankshaft mains and rod end bearings. They use an oil filter screen, no oil filter with a paper element. The later models in that series went to an internal gear pump for the lube oil, and a small spin-on filter. If the vanes wear out, you are on your own to make new ones as Quincy does not support those older compressors.

The unloader system on that compressor is tied into the lube oil system. When the compressor starts up, there is initially no lube oil pressure. The unloader control and springs hold the intake valves open (the head unloader units). Once lube oil pressure builds, the unloader control will release the intake valves and the compressor starts pumping air. On coast-down, the same process happens. The unloader control will be on the side of the crankcase and is tied into the pressure switch.

The 210 compressors are great little compressors. I own one I got used over 40 years ago, ran it until the lube oil pump vanes gave out. Having an even older Worthington compressor, I put that into use for shop air.

The Quincy compressors really are not made to be sped up to increase air flow. A duplex compressor of the type you picture likely came out of a building's HVAC (heating, ventilating, air conditioning) control system. The setup you picture was made for making "control air". The two motors were worked off a separate controller which usually had a "lead-lag" or "alternator" logic to it. This could run one compressor in the "lead" mode, and if it could not keep up, the second compressor came on line. Or, in the "alternator" mode, it alternated which compressor was next to be started when the pressure switches called for air. This was to equalize run times.

A 210 compressor should not need much of a motor. 1 HP would be plenty for what cfm the compressor produces. A 1725 or 1750 rpm motor is what is needed. These are SLOW turning compressors. Nice and quiet. Very long lived if you take care of them. 200 bucks is a steal, even if you have to buy a motor.

The double shaft idea, unfortunately, will not work. This is because the Quincy compressors can only be turned in one direction due to the lube oil pump and internals. Similarly, reading your post, you cannot rotate one of the compressors 180 degrees to run off the same motor from your old compressor. There are directional arrows on the flywheel pulleys of the Quincy compressors.

About the only way to use your old motor would be kind of a "kluge" or "Rube Goldberg" lashup: namely, you'd need to make a jackshaft driven by belts from the motor. This jackshaft would be run in pillow block bearings and would run at 1:1 with the existing motor shaft speed. Each compressor would then be belted off the jackshaft with pulleys the size of the motor pulley that is now used. In effect, you would be making a "mini line shaft". Cumbersome lashup, for sure. it would also start both compressors in parallel with each other. Chances are the existing setup has two separate tappings on the air tank, each with its own compressor check valve. This lets the compressors push air into the tank independent of each other. If you went for the setup I've described, my own gut sense would be to make an "air manifold" out of a chunk of maybe 3" pipe and a couple of butt weld caps. This manifold would provide a bit of dampening so both compressors could discharge into it without having the pulsations from one compressor's discharge bucking against the other. I use "Thred-O-Lets" (forged steel fittings, tapped for pipe threads, ready made to saddle onto pipes that you then weld in place) and butt weld fittings for this sort of thing as well as for other pipe work.

3.7 HP motor sounds a bit odd for a rating. Is it an imported motor ? If it is 3450 or 3600 rpm, as is used on some of the newer consumer-grade compressors, you will need to have a slower turning pulley to drive the Quincy compressor(s). The flywheels on the Quincy 210's are not all that big. I forget the spec'd maximum rpm on a 210 pump, but it may be down around 450-600 rpm at most. The Quincy 210's "perk along" like an old coffee percolator, nice and slow, and not loud.

My other recommendation is to at least do a hydrostatic (water pressure) test on the air tank before you put the unit into service. We've posted quite a bit on this 'board about the dangers in old/unknown air tanks. They are considered as potential bombs. Condensation from the compressed air corrodes and thins the bottom of the tank, and while the tank appears sound, it can be a real bomb waiting to go off. Ideally, gauging the tank with an ultrasonic thickness gauge (UT) followed by the hydro test are what should be done. The hydro test is done with water and the tank is pumped to 1.25 X working pressure. If anything lets go, it is in "slow motion" with no flying shrapnel- as would be the case if a tank containing compressed air were to rupture. Tanks built under ASME (American Society of Mechanical Engineers) unfired pressure vessel code (there will be a "code plate" tack welded to the tank shell) will be built in a National Board shop and have a registration number, date of manufacturer, maximum allowable working pressure, maximum temperature, and thicknesses of the barrel and heads. Tanks are designed with a minimum factor of safety of 5, which is good and bad. A tank can pass hydro test, but be so thin as to be right on the edge of a failure, and the factor of safety has dropped to 1. While the tank passes its hydro test and does not bulge or rupture, all it takes is a little more corrosion internally in service to have an unexpected tank rupture. Chances are the tank will prove out OK, as these sorts of duplex compressors in HVAC systems usually had automatic tank condensate drains on them. Nice easy service compared to being used in a shop or similar.

As I said, it is a steal at the price, and I'd grab it. Even if you wind up buying a smaller air receiver and new motor, you have a spare compressor. I do not know what your compressed air requirements are. As was noted, the 210 is a SMALL compressor. If you plan on running things like air die grinders, it will not push enough air. It is OK for running a 1/2" air impact wrench in short bursts, or filling car or motorcycle tires. It does not have the cfm for bigger/continuous run air tools and you can go have lunch if you plan to air up a heavy truck or tractor tire.

Wow, thanks for all the information, I really appreciate it.

Yes the 3.7Hp motor is what is on my current Husky Compressor (imported). It's a 3450 RPM motor with a 4" pulley that spins the current pump at 1150RPM. From what I could find on the 210 the minimum speed is 400 and max is 1000 RPM, and yes I planned on getting a smaller pulley around 3" for it to slow the 210 down to about 850RPM if the flywheel is 12" like I think.

I won't re-use the tank it looks old and rusty and don't really want to chance the explosion. I will use the current 60 gallon tank I have from the Husky compressor.

I don't need a lot of air, most of the time I just run my little pancake and I don't want the noise of the Husky compressor for 7 minutes while it fills. I may even continue searching for a nice 30 gallon tank to put this on and just outright sell the whole Husky.
 
I think the one on the left will run on single phase just fine as it is.....

I didn't notice unit you said something they are different motors and the pump on the right doesn't have a belt hooked up. I bet he was only running one pump because he didn't have 3 phase for the other motor.

I'm going to pick it up tomorrow afternoon, it's supposedly on a pallet now and he has a forklift so just gonna slide it in the back of my truck and get her home and start taking it apart.
 
I'm going to pick it up tomorrow afternoon, it's supposedly on a pallet now and he has a forklift so just gonna slide it in the back of my truck and get her home and start taking it apa

You already have a 60 gallon Husky. I was thinking it would make more sense to upgrade your more modern compressor over messing with an old one. What part's too loud on the husky? Maybe upgrade it it to a soft-start 3 phase with VFD. You mentioned 7 minute fill but why not just leave it under pressure?
 
Chinee compressors are noisy because of the very light ally construction and the high revs they run at......lower revs =quiet running....Sometimes domestic supplies for various things run so slow that intake valve whistle is annoying.Especially at 2am......Chinee tanks rust thru quickly because they are thin hard steel.......old compressors often had iron boiler plate tanks,and didnt rust at all inside due to oil discharge coating the tank.
 
...The double shaft idea, unfortunately, will not work. This is because the Quincy compressors can only be turned in one direction due to the lube oil pump and internals.

You got the joke! ;)

About the only way to use your old motor would be kind of a "kluge" or "Rube Goldberg" lashup: namely, you'd need to make a jackshaft driven by belts from the motor. This jackshaft would be run in pillow block bearings and would run at 1:1 with the existing motor shaft speed. Each compressor would then be belted off the jackshaft with pulleys the size of the motor pulley that is now used. In effect, you would be making a "mini line shaft". Cumbersome lashup, for sure. it would also start both compressors in parallel with each other. ....

Hadn't thought of a jackshaft. What I envisioned was the motor in the middle, double sheave driving both compressors. All 3 components would have to be relocated, lots of drilling and replumbing and rewiring. Belt tensioning could get tricky, as the plumbing from compressor to check valve is rigid. Depending on how much time Electrotech would like to spend vs getting another motor, either option could work.
 
Just wanted to update on what I found today. So I picked up the compressor and brought it back to work where I disassembled it removing both motors and pumps. Settled on the deal at $180 and came with nice plastic skid.

I'm pretty sure one of the pumps hasn't been used in a long time since it had no belt and the motor was 3 phase. The shop this was located at did not have 3 phase. It was in a guys home/garage shop his sons were cleaning out after he passed. For that matter probably neither pump has been used in a long time.

I found a MFG date on the tank and it was made in 1978 so it's over 40 years old. I don't know if its a iron boiler plate tank or not (It's heavy as hell though)We have a bore scope camera I will stick in there Monday to check it out and see what the inside looks like.

I'm going to dissemble both pumps and see what the insides look like. I checked the oil on them and the one that looks like it wasn't run as much has good looking oil in it, the other was way over filled and the dip stick had some junk on the bottom that wiped off and then was just getting good oil but way too much.

Anyone know if this Century motor is any good or re-buildable?

I want to try and resurrect these old pumps don't really like the new Chinese stuff I'd rather use one of these than the husky I have. Plus I can sell the husky if this tanks ok and try and make a fun project out of getting both pumps to run on the one tank.

Some more pics attached from today.
IMG_3202(1).jpgIMG_3203(1).jpgIMG_3210.jpgIMG_3208.jpgIMG_3204.jpg
 
Any tip on separating the cylinders from the block?

I've gotten everything torn down except i need to separate the two to remove the pistons.

Ive tried beating it with a deadblow and wedging a screw driver in between them but neither seems to be working. And yes I have all the bolts out, lol.
 
I had that exact setup. As Joe said they really are great compressors for a little compressor. Mine was in about the same condition as yours and I tore it all apart and rebuilt it too. I wound up putting a single phase motor on mine and ran it for years. What killed it in the end was the receiver got a hole in it. I looked all around but a new receiver was more than I was willing to spend. I put a little pressure gauge on the oil pump line. The only thing I remember about taking it apart was that getting the valves out could be a bear. The carrier liked to get rusted in.
 
Re: Dismantling a Quincy 210 compressor:

As Pete Deal wrote, the valves can be a bear to get out of the head. What I'd recommend for dismantling is to do it with the compressor(s) bolted solidly to the receiver tank, at least to get the dismantling started. You should use a 6-point socket for the valve covers on the discharge valves, and a large monkey wrench or large adjustable wrench to take off the unloaders from the intake valves. This goes a whole lot easier when the compressor is mounted solidly.

The valve covers (or caps on the outside of the head) are sealed with copper crush gaskets (use once, throw away). Similarly, the valves are sealed into the heads with copper crush gaskets as I recall. It's been over 45 years since I had my Quincy 210 apart (where did those years go ?!), so I may be a bit foggy as to the anatomy in the cylinder head. On the larger Quincy compressors, there was a sleeve with male threads on it. This sleeve screwed into the cylinder head and clamped the valve into its seat in the head. The valve "cap" then screwed onto this sleeve to seal the outside of the head. If I remember right, we used to put a piece of flat steel bar thru slots in the sleeve and put a large adjustable wrench on it, or weld a chunk of pipe to the flat bar for a lever. The little 210 likely uses this same system, and if the sleeves get rusted into the heads, the fun begins. I recall on one larger Quincy compressor, which ran in a remote/unmanned hydroelectric plant, condensation was a real problem. The heads used to get rusted up, and we'd have to rebuild them. On more than one occasion, the crew had to use a rosebud ( large oxyacetylene heating tip) on the head and really beat on the home-made wrench to get the threaded sleeves broken loose.

On the little 210, I do not recall this being any real problem. About the only problem I ran into years ago in rebuilding a 210 Quincy compressor was someone ahead of me had applied thick black Permatex sealant to anything that remotely needed sealing, including seating the valves into the head. THAT was a bear to get apart.

As for separating the cylinders from the crankcase: once you have the head removed, there are bolts securing the flange at the bottom of the cylinder block to the crankcase. Remove those bolts and hit the block with a dead blow hammer or soft-faced hammer. The block should break loose from the crankcase. Draw it straight up and the pistons will slide down the cylinder bores and remain with the con rods.

As I recall, I honed the cylinder bores in my 210 Quincy with an automotive brake cylinder hone. Got a good cross-hatch pattern in the bores. I installed new rings on the pistons. Quincy, at least in those days, used 2 compression rings, and a one-piece oil control ring. The oil control ring is made of a softer gray cast iron. These rings are small to start with, and the one piece oil control ring is really fragile. A lot of care is needed to fit the new rings. I am old school, so did it by cutting thin shims to cover the ring grooves and carefully working the rings on and into the grooves.

I forget whether Quincy has a "starting taper" at the bottom of each cylinder bore. This is done on some compressor cylinders and motorcycle cylinders to allow the cylinder to be slid down onto an assembled/ringed piston without need of a ring compressor. The tapered section of the bore compressed the rings so they can enter the actual cylinder bores. If I recall rightly, I used an automotive style ring compressor when I rebuild my Quincy 210, starting the pistons (with con rods attached) from the top of the cylinder bores. There is a side cover plate on the crankcase. This has to be opened to allow access to the "big ends" of the con rods.

I make a habit of "match marking" parts that could otherwise be interchanged or go on backwards. The rods and pistons need to be marked as to which cylinder they came out of, since the 210 is a single stage 2 cylinder compressor. The rod caps also need to be marked as to which rod they came off and which way they faced.

My 210 came with a small oil gauge on it, right at the oil pump. It was a well used compressor, coming off a packaged steam boiler where it had made atomizing air. I was surprised when I cranked the flywheel by hand and the oil pressure gauge came right up. There should be a screen for the oil pump intake, and this is accessed with a plug on the rear of the crankcase. There should also be a spring-loaded bypass/relief valve on the pump, and it would not hurt to get this apart for cleaning as well.

On this 'board, we have discussed the danges or used/unknown air receiver tanks. The duplex 210 compressor Electrotech has gotten may well have been used for making control air for HVAC systems. If it has an automatic tank drain on it- which was common on these sorts of installations- I'd say putting a hydrostatic test on the air receiver that the 210 compressors are on would be worth doing. The air receiver is likely an ASME Code receiver, and would have been build in the USA of a good grade of "pressure vessel steel plate", typically an ASTM A 516 grade 70. This is steel specifically formulated for forming into things like dished heads and flanged sheets for boilers and pressure vessels. Being built to ASME code, the tank will have had to have a minimum factor of safety of 5. As I wrote, with internal corrosion at the bottom of the tank- assuming it were not blown down to drain condensate regularly- the tank may have some thin spots, but still hold pressure and pass a hydro test. However, the ASME code tank on the duplex Quincy compressors is something I'd be more inclined to trust than the Chinese built tank. The Chinese compressors are built "to a price" to be sold in "big box stores" to consumers. Depending on which state of the USA you are in, an ASME code tank may not be required by the laws of that state. Some states are tighter than others, and will require any air tanks over a certain volume to be built to ASME Code and be a "Code Stamped Pressure Vessel". Not to cast aspersions on Husky, but I tend to think they did not put an air tank on the compressor that was built to ASME code. The result is that it may well be made from thinner steel with a lower factor of safety, and if a higher tensile steel were used, the thickness of the tank walls and heads is thinner yet. Corrosion seems to attack the newer steels (steel made in "reclaim mills" or "remelt mills" from processed scrap) a lot more rapidly and severely than the old steels.
Not sure why this is, but I've been seeing this pattern for years. Older steels, made in mills where they started with pig iron and had a closer control of the steel being made, seems a lot more corrosion resistant. The newer steels, being made mainly from processed scrap, abound in "tramp elements" from various alloy steels that wind up being charged into the remelt mill furnaces. This drives up "the carbon equivalent", making the steel less ductile (less formable), often less weldable, and drives up the yield point strength and ultimate strength. Usually, these two strength values get closer together on the steels from the remelt mills, and the result is steel that is less ductile. While having a higher ultimate strength, there is little room for "plastic deformation" once the steel is loaded past its yield point. The result is a very rapid failure. The new steels are touted as being stronger, and as a result, less steel is needed to do the work of the traditional steels- or so the salesmen will tell you. What I will also say here is that if you did the math for the minimum thickness of a "thin walled cylinder" to contain 150 psig compressed air of the diameter used on a home shop compressor, you will be quite surprised at how thin the wall of that tank can be. I am sure that whomever designed the air tank on the Husky compressor was doing it on the thinnest of margins. Going with the higher strength of the new steel used, and not being built to ASME code, the tank may be one shade removed from an aluminum beer can. As I said, if it were me, I'd be putting a hydrostatic test (pumping up with water to 1.25 X working pressure) on the tank the 2 Quincy compressors were originally mounted upon. Take a hammer and lightly hit the sides of the Husky tank and the Quincy tank and you will probably feel and hear the difference in wall thickness.
 
I am new to this site also. My username is vtnorth.
I too have just purchased a Quincy 210 compressor (210-3-583931L). The workmanship is fantastic! I just read Joe Michaels' two great replies and think I have made a mistake. I don't think I will have enough CFM to support my bead blaster, it requires about 20CFM. Can you tell me Joe, what CFM rating the 210 has?
I have the 3-phase motors also and was thinking about simply buying an inverter and keeping the factory set-up.
I read how the max RPMs for the 210 Quincy compressor is 1000 (do you agree) and mine is running about 519. Increasing to, say, 800 will not help?

I think my rig will work mechanically fine, from its condition. I am cleaning it up a bit but have not had it running. I do have a 3-phase generator that I use for a lathe and mill and plan to use it to test the 210.
My knowledge of 3-phase could be a lot better. I was thinking about running both motors through the same off/on sensor. The motors are stamped with 3.5 amps each and the switch is rated for 12 amps. Any advice here?
Thank you for any help this thread can offer.
 








 
Back
Top