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ez-outs (was Please identify these bits)

lltomll327

Plastic
Joined
May 9, 2020
I found these old bits from my grandfather and have no idea what they are please help, he worked at Grumman on long Island if it helps
 

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Yup. I have a can full of different sizes here as well. If you notice it is threaded left handed to remove a right handed broken bolt or broken piece of pipe.
 
AKA the spawn of the devil :eek:

Well said Sami!
I'm somewhat known for having a tap disintegrator in these parts. Get a call from a company that knows this. Hey Ray, I'm sending Glorp over with a part that has a broken bolt in it. I'm looking at and ask who the hell did this? I did. Why? 'Cause my boss wanted me to. The drilled hole was off center into the body. The easy-out was snapped off and they tried to chisel it out. Just a simple 5/8-18 bolt. Glorp sez his boss needs a price. Boss goes crazy on the price. I send Glorp back to their shop with the piece. So for the actions of an idiot and not wanting to spend 150 bucks to get this shit taken care of, they made the complete assembly over.
 
As others have said here, it's an Eazi Out. The worst name by which it could ever be described as and the company should have been prosecuted under trades description. A more apt name would have been a Hard In.
 
As others have said here, it's an Eazi Out. The worst name by which it could ever be described as and the company should have been prosecuted under trades description. A more apt name would have been a Hard In.

LOL. Yeah, From experience, They only work about 50% of the time. Usually just end up drilling out the mess and re-tapping or installing thread inserts. Dandy Dave.
 
the larger one from Greenfield Tap and Die in the right pic is interesting. I havn't seen that pattern before, anyone have experience with them? any better than the regular spiral of death?

P.S., IF I happen to have gotten lucky with them and am running 90% with the buggers, there is NO way I would say that, or I'd be doomed for sure... :D
 
I've never had good luck with any of that style. The taper expands the broken bolt so the tighter it is the greater it's expanded. If the bolt is loose the drill will push it farther in the hole. I use left hand drills and keep increasing size small steps at a time. As everyone knows or should know drilling into a hole increasing its size a small amount the drill will grab and just what I want it to do. If the broken screw is loose it will back out with first or second drilling however as size increases the wall thickness lessens and the screw/bolt becomes weak. Adding some Kroil or some other type similar liquid helps and soon the bolt unscrews. I also have a set of the hammer in type that works better that the Easy-Out style.
 
Those are sold as dreams wishes and prayers
Only if the bolt is not bottomed or rusted solid will screwing in a slow tapered wedge which will make the bolt tighter ever remove it .
To think a smaller diameter thing stuck in a bigger stuck thing is not going to break is dreaming
 
Well said Sami!
I'm somewhat known for having a tap disintegrator in these parts. Get a call from a company that knows this. Hey Ray, I'm sending Glorp over with a part that has a broken bolt in it. I'm looking at and ask who the hell did this? I did. Why? 'Cause my boss wanted me to. The drilled hole was off center into the body. The easy-out was snapped off and they tried to chisel it out. Just a simple 5/8-18 bolt. Glorp sez his boss needs a price. Boss goes crazy on the price. I send Glorp back to their shop with the piece. So for the actions of an idiot and not wanting to spend 150 bucks to get this shit taken care of, they made the complete assembly over.

It was ever thus Ray, going back over 45 years, my part time boss (Big Jim) had a couple of tap burners (1 portable), and the scenario you describe was common then, ……..AKA folk 4X a job then EXPECT you to sort it out for nothing!

Back in the day, digging out broken screws was a good part of the monthly bread on my table, ……...a few BIG (as in :eek: how 4Xing much? :eek:) invoices for sorting out others cock ups soon got most of them in line :) ………………...several mechanics telling me something like ''after the bollocking I got for that last one that went wrong - the job's yours. '' :D
 
Thanks everyone for the replies the smaller one definitely makes sense as a easy out but the big one still stumps me, its a square shape if it helps
 
Thanks everyone for the replies the smaller one definitely makes sense as a easy out but the big one still stumps me, its a square shape if it helps

why? It does exactly the same thing, just a bigger size. what's there to be stumped about? on top of that, everyone has already said they both do the same thing (or at least they are claimed to!:))
 
The square part is where you put the crescent wrench with a length of pipe over the handle, so that when you start pulling, it tears the part out of the vise and it falls to the concrete floor damaging a bunch of stuff that was OK before. Or if you have the vise socked down, the ez-out digs in and splits the casting. If the casting doesn't break, and doesn't pull out of the vise, then you start moving the workbench. If thats heavy enough or fixed strongly enough, then you'll break the wrench or bend the pipe.

The ez-out's job is to either break off in the carefully drilled hole, or as in the case of one too large to easily break, do the aforementioned damage. With ez-outs, at no time does the fastener you're trying to remove ever come out.
 
I've had decent success with e-z out bits, but they are not a cure-all. They're a good way to grab hold of a broken bolt, but they will not help you loosen a seized bolt. You also need to consider the size of the bolt when picking the size of the extractor. When you drill the hole you want to leave enough meat for the extractor to dig into without deforming the threads. For a 1/4-20 screw for example, I wouldn't go bigger than an 1/8" hole and a #2 extractor.

IMO when you address a broken screw, you have to consider why it broke separately from how to get it out. If it broke BECAUSE you were loosening due to rust or gaulding, you'll have to address that separately. If it sheared off in service by being over loaded or beat on, often an e-z out will be just the ticket getting it out.

How expert you are in drilling a hole parallel through the center of the remainder of the bolt is something to consider with every single bolt removal method. Heck, if you burn a crooked hole and cut into the threads, you can't just say that burning bolts out is a worthless method.
 
I agree with everyone that hates the name easy out! The only ones I ever had much luck with were the straight fluted ones made by the rigid tool company. But most all the time I just tig a nut onto the broken stub and get them out! Heat is a wonderful thing in these situations. If you insist on using screw extractors at least spotface the broken bolt and properly center drill the hole before drilling! ( no hand drill either!) I have used left handed drills too. My favorites are short left handed screw machine drills. The short length helps with rigidity and you might unscrew the bolt?
 








 
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