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friction retard for set screw

Froneck

Titanium
Joined
Dec 4, 2010
Location
McClure, PA 17059
I'm making a gauge to measure length of a slot. Have 1/4" stick X .900 stainless steel bar. (SS because I just happen to have a piece 1/4" X 1 X 6")
Purchased spherical point set screws 8-32 (only thread pitch available in #8) Drilled and tapped 8-32 X .8 deep and .096" thru for hex wrench.
Screw moves easy, I would like to stiffen the movement. Thought of hitting the side of the bar over the tapped hole with a punch. Maybe use an end mill and put a hole thru the side enough to remove threads on one side of tapped hole. Re-tap to remove burrs then press in a piece of Nylon or some other plastic.
Any better ideas??
 
How much adjustment will it receive? A piece of nylon monofilament line through the hole before threading in the set screw may do the job.
 
A thick pipe dope, or maybe some anti-seize cooked down a little bit to thicken it more would give you a bit of stiction.
 
Definitely wrap your head around the Loctite products as CalG mentioned; Loctite blue is perfect for that application, and LcT 680/690 Retaining compound covers most everything else in the shop.
Johnny
 
They make self-locking set screws with little nylon inserts in the threads. Would something like that work.
A quick Google search turned up quite a few different styles...
 
Self locking set screw not available with spherical point. Distance travel is about.030" max. However will be repeatedly adjusted for measurement. Small hole to fit hex wrench on other side so larger surface area for Micrometer measurement. Will Loctite allow repeated adjustments? Would have preferred finer thread but only NC was available.
 
an 8-32 screw will go out length .031 for one full turn, about ,016 in a half-turn, about .008 in a quarter turn. Using a Allen wrench and counting turns you can use a screw like a depth micrometer.

QT: Screw moves easy, I would like to stiffen the movement.

it is a hack way but I have bumped the thread side with a round stock and small whack.
 
When I need repeatable friction, I always go with high force / low coefficient of friction. A Nylon plug as you suggested under a spring is probably ideal. Just make sure your spring deflection is several times what you expect to see in wear on your plug.

Another idea might be a jam nut, constrained from turning, sandwiching a wave or belleville spring.
 
The mangle the thread method only works for a few adjustments.
Same with thread fillers of blue or tape. Even the nylon plug guys suffer from limited life.
The only good methods I have encountered are a second screw at 90 degrees with a brass plug or slotting to the hole and using a screw to collapse it clamping on the threads.
The other of course how a micrometer lock works.
Bob
 
If you can put a locking screw 90deg as Bob said , then what I do is put the brass tip in the hole and thread it so that it matches the set screw. It takes very little pressure to lock the set screw and won't damage the threads.Using a brass screw would work well.
 
I have used the brass plug in a hole to stop an adjustment screw from turning. Being lazy I didn't want to turn a brass plug to tap drill size for 8-32 so I used a tough plastic. If it were for a critical adjustment screw I would have used brass but all I needed was friction so that when inserting the hex wrench I didn't move the measurement screw.
 








 
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