Gorton 1-22 Mill, Retrieval and Eventually Questions - Page 4
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  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Servicar rider View Post
    I've had travAdials on several machines, but a good dro has more features
    Bolt hole circles is the feature I am most interested in with a dro, I've done it with math, but its a lot slower, and way too easy to make a mistake

  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Servicar rider View Post
    I've had travAdials on several machines, but a good dro has more features? One thing about a travadial is they don't forget their location if the lights blink off during a storm!
    Newer DROs have a self recharging battery that keeps memory alive. I have a Fagor on my ToolMaster and a Sony on my Gorton 1-22. If I loose power they remember everything. Other day I lost power about 9PM, went home and power was off there too! About 5AM power was restored, next day when I returned to shop everything was as it was on my Fagor prior to loss of power! Been a while since I looked at owners manual but I think when I loose power all that is lost is display numbers. I think I can move the table while power is off and it will record the movement and be correct when power is restored.
    BTW I looked at my 30NMTB spindle, I see no indication it may have been 40NMTB and bushed to 30. However if I was the OP I would look into the possibility that K&T bushed NMTB taper to get 9 and 10B&S plus RB.Having the riser that raises the ram almost 6" makes using the draw bar difficult so I have SPI quick change.

  3. #63
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    Yeah, I have newer dro's on other machines and they don't forget. I only have one machine that forgets and that's an accurate II that's 40 years old!

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by dalmatiangirl61 View Post
    Bolt hole circles is the feature I am most interested in with a dro, I've done it with math, but its a lot slower, and way too easy to make a mistake
    Most pocket calculators have Polar Coordinate calculation. Simply put in angle and radius and X - y coordinates are give. If one location is at 0 or 90° only the +/- of the coordinate have to be changed so the calculation only needs to be done once. Can do in on a pocket calculator with trig. but only one coordinate at a time so it has to be done twice.

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  6. #65
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    Making progress on the 3 projects needed to be finished so I can get to work on this one, 2 machines and the power upgrade so I can run it.

    Received a B&S #9 ZZ collet holder from member 4GSR on Friday, found a large lot of ZZ collets on ebay, not quite every size, and lots of duplicates, will round out the set as needed. Hoping to get electrician here this weekend.

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    Your zz collets will be in like new condition because you will likely only use 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4? The other sizes aren't used much?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Servicar rider View Post
    Your zz collets will be in like new condition because you will likely only use 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4? The other sizes aren't used much?
    That's true with HSS end mills but Carbide end mills have shanks the same size as cut diameter especially in sizes above 1/8" plus metric carbide end mills are not available in inch shank size. So a good collet set if Carbide end mills are are used.

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  10. #68
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    Love my I-22, imagine you will too!

    Anyone have any z-axis drive components they want to sell? Or could someone take some pics of the assembly?

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    Quote Originally Posted by BugRobotics View Post
    Love my I-22, imagine you will too!

    Anyone have any z-axis drive components they want to sell? Or could someone take some pics of the assembly?
    Don't have parts to sell, I have the mill with both Z axis drives one is on the head for power feed and the other on the knee to raise the table but too fast for feed though if a VFD were added I guess it could be used. I can try again to get my camera to work with my computer, it did in the past but for some reason it would not load when I tried a few months ago. I did buy another computer but being busy all I do is look at it sitting next to the computer I'm using.
    Not sure where it came from but I have a PDF file 1-22 Maintenance Manual put can't include it here because its PDF. (I can e-mail it to you) It does show the drive. I have all the 1-22 manuals, the Parts Manual has a better diagram but it's not in my computer but it's available from Ozark where I purchased all 3 copies of the 3 manuals.

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    I have a Gorton Mastermill that was a General Motors machine, It was last in the Delphi Automotive building in Grand Blanc Michigan. I seem to remember that that research facility shut down in the late '80's ?
    My mill uses NMTB 40 taper tooling. I have power knee and power table and power quill.
    My mill's head has the belt drive with step pulleys.
    I do not have the optional riser for the head and find the short amount of room rather aggravating. I may have to make a riser. Unless someone has one they don't plan on using?
    I have a total of three drawbars. The original one is 5/8-11, and is the correct length for NMTB 40 tooling. I made a second drawbar about 1" longer so I can you Cat 40 and other non-NMTB tooling. I made a third drawbar in 16-1.25mm [ I think, might be 16-1.5mm]. I found that I had purchased a boxful of 40 taper tooling but they had metric drawbar threads.
    The original drawbar has a square head, so I made the two additional bars the same. I use a 15mm 12pt box-end wrench on the drawbar.
    The machine had a very early optical DRO, but it was inop. I replaced it with a new magnetic pickup DRO.
    The Gorton mill is very tough and rigid, but needs the riser for added vertical room for tooling.

    DualValve

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    Quote Originally Posted by DualValve View Post
    The Gorton mill is very tough and rigid, but needs the riser for added vertical room for tooling.
    Especially if you have a collet adapter .... but I wouldn't go over 3" as the top end gets too far away for convenience. I think they are a little taller than a Bridgeport ? Always seemed like it when I was changing speeds.

    One a them power drawbar attachments would be nice

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    My Gorton mill is still sitting on the trailer its a O-16A. I can't wait to get it wired up and start using it. I would like to find out what year it was made but not a lot of info on them

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    The working room over the bed is a real detriment for my use. I want to be able to surface mill a cylinder block, or often some other object that is over 12" tall. Even using as short of a face mill as is available, I cannot fit the work under the tooling. So I have to pay for a different shop to mill these parts for me.
    I've looked into the price of the steel needed to make a riser. I guess I should look at what the minimum additional height I need would be rather than look at what the maximum I could make. I was looking at making an 8" riser. Maybe I ought to see if a 4" riser would do the job for me instead.
    I don't mind the idea of having a chunk of 4x6 to stand on if the 4" riser makes access to the drawbar too much of a stretch.

    DualValve

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    Quote Originally Posted by DualValve View Post
    The working room over the bed is a real detriment for my use. I want to be able to surface mill a cylinder block, or often some other object that is over 12" tall. Even using as short of a face mill as is available, I cannot fit the work under the tooling. So I have to pay for a different shop to mill these parts for me.
    I've looked into the price of the steel needed to make a riser. I guess I should look at what the minimum additional height I need would be rather than look at what the maximum I could make. I was looking at making an 8" riser. Maybe I ought to see if a 4" riser would do the job for me instead.
    I don't mind the idea of having a chunk of 4x6 to stand on if the 4" riser makes access to the drawbar too much of a stretch.

    DualValve
    My 1-22 came with riser (see post #35) It's not like the typical BP type riser that is a ring. It fits in the Dovetail and is cut with a Dovetail to fit the ram. Increases height dam near 6" if my memory is correct. I use an SPI type quick change (Nikken is the same and Yuasa is very similar I have all 3)so I don't have to use the drawbar.

    sigpros, post the SN of your 0-16A. It's in my SN book as being made by Lars Machine (Not K&T) starting in 1948 ending 1978
    Last edited by Froneck; 10-13-2020 at 05:28 PM. Reason: spelling erroe

  18. #75
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    Like I mentioned in an earlier post, these machines really need the riser! Otherwise they are just too short if you want to drill with them and use a vise! I have a short step ladder I use for drawbar access. At a former job we had an I-22 with no riser and it was about worthless for anything other than short work. That machine has a new owner and now has a riser and is a pleasure to use.

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    Not sure if my 1-22 without the riser has less height than my ToolMaster Mill, I don't have much problem with it thought I don't use large drills and if I do I have stubbies from 1/2" up. Simply put I don't like drawbars. Takes too long to change what ever is being held in the toolholder. Poor mans quick change is easy to make, simply take a large toolholder and make bushings for it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DualValve View Post
    The working room over the bed is a real detriment for my use. I want to be able to surface mill a cylinder block, or often some other object that is over 12" tall. Even using as short of a face mill as is available, I cannot fit the work under the tooling. So I have to pay for a different shop to mill these parts for me.
    I've looked into the price of the steel needed to make a riser. I guess I should look at what the minimum additional height I need would be rather than look at what the maximum I could make. I was looking at making an 8" riser. Maybe I ought to see if a 4" riser would do the job for me instead.
    I don't mind the idea of having a chunk of 4x6 to stand on if the 4" riser makes access to the drawbar too much of a stretch.

    DualValve
    4" could mebbe do yah if you can scout a PDQ-Marlin master & some of their Weldon-style side-lock holders.

    Add stubby drills? Might need NO riser atall?

    I have the smallest two sizes of PDQ:

    - A former 30-taper modified by a previous owner to run "OK" in B&S #9 that only needs one HALF INCH of drop to swap a tool.

    - a native 40-taper in the next size up. IIRC that one still needs only 3/4" clear to swap tool?

    Several other PM members have those.

    .. Pull the master in with the drawbar. Thereafter changes at the nose use a hook spanner, no step-stool nor powered drawbar required.

    And the side-lock holders beat all Hell out of collets.

    The company has changed hands, perhaps more than once, but recently rebuilt their website:

    General machining | PDQ Marlin Manufacturing | United States

    The OTHER option if/as/when I am really strapped for daylight, is the usual B&S #9 native collets, but ALSO a handful of native 40-taper collets.

    Those 40-taper collets will get a milling cutter of any kind about as close as can be to the bearings. Once again, might not need any riser at all?

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    Quote Originally Posted by DualValve View Post
    I've looked into the price of the steel needed to make a riser.
    There's no foundry near you ? A simple loose pattern would do the job, pretty easy to make and lots less material to remove. You could even make them for other people, or at lest sell the castings. Not like you'd get rich on that but what the heck, it would be kind of a fun project.

    Factory ones came in 3" and 6", if you wanted to be Original.

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    The serial number is 39039. Sorry wasn’t trying to hijack the thread. I made a thread in the general section but didn’t get any hits. Just trying to find out all I can about this mill. And I would love to have a riser for it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sigpros View Post
    The serial number is 39039. Sorry wasn’t trying to hijack the thread. I made a thread in the general section but didn’t get any hits. Just trying to find out all I can about this mill. And I would love to have a riser for it.
    1959 SN begins with 39026 and 1960 SN begins with 39049 so your machine was built about the middle of 1959. As I mentioned by Lars Machine Inc.


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