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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by IrbyJones View Post
    This is more a curiosity at this point. My memory of the MT 2 was off apparently since the MT 3 fits in there well. It was back in 2007 and 2008 when I was playing around with that milling head so my memory is off. I wouldn't have had an MT 2 collet around anyway to use, so it had to have been an MT 3 collet I used. I had them around for a lathe I had then. But the drawbar threads are still a mystery. I had another Halco head that uses B&S #7 collets and I may have well swapped drawbars with that head since it has a 3/8-16 threaded drawbar.

    As to the length issue, I think everything is OK. The large diameter of an MT3 taper is 0.938", and an MT 3 collet will stick out some so the 0.925" Nathan measures seems OK to me. The length of the MT 3 taper is 3.19", so it would fit into the 4.300" depth he measures also.

    Irby
    Take a CLOSER look at the two photos in post #14.

    Leftmost photo:

    Attachment 319965

    The MT #2 was just dangling there at an angle.

    So the revised memory fits. Not #2 MT.

    But look at the MT # 3, right photo as well:

    Attachment 319966

    Note the hang-out. Something ain't right? Hopefully just his test item?

    I can't see an MT family collet closing and holding properly with that sort of hang-out, even presuming less of it protruding than the item shown has.

    They have a long body-slice for the spring-collet "hinge" action.

    But the internal bearing pads are near the front. Place those fingers under stress without external support? Nothing good is on the dance-card.

    He needs to get an ACTUAL MT # 3 COLLET offered-up.. to see where it sits.

    Or.. seat an ER series on MT # 3 arse-end and even Loctite the bugger in, not just drawbar? Then operate it with a spanner right in line of sight, not a step-stool and drawbar.

    NOW you can grip an endmill!

    That's how I do ER-40 and ER-20 for other-than MT and 40-taper where they are "native". ER is not as easily found on # 9 B&S tail as it is on MT and NMTB/CAT/BT tapers.

    Straight-shank ER tail. One #9 collet.

    Done messing with the drawbar for the duration.

  2. #22
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    Speaking of hangout...
    I tried a B&S collet in my Halco head that has the B&S 7 taper and it hangs out about 0.3" even if I tighten it down all the way. That doesn't seem right. The hangout in my Bridgeport M-head is far less. BTW, some of my B&S 7 collets are longer than others. This hangout is with the shorter ones.

    Hangout in Halco head. The diameter of the collet at the point it hangs out is about 0.718". The overall length of the collet is 2.88" and the hangout is .28".
    img_5298_1.jpg

    Hangout in Bridgeport M-head.
    img_5303_1.jpg

    Did Halco supply special collets that were shorter?

    We need Halcohead and anyone else with a Halco milling head to chime in with info about their Halco head collets.

    Irby

    P.S. I never use my B&S 7 Halco milling head because it didn't come with a motor or motor pulley and I haven't gotten either for it yet. And I had the one Nathan has until I sold it to him.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails img_5298_1.jpg   img_5303_1.jpg  

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    Quote Originally Posted by IrbyJones View Post
    Speaking of hangout...
    I tried a B&S collet in my Halco head that has the B&S 7 taper and it hangs out about 0.3" even if I tighten it down all the way. That doesn't seem right. The hangout in my Bridgeport M-head is far less. BTW, some of my B&S 7 collets are longer than others. This hangout is with the shorter ones.

    Hangout in Halco head. The diameter of the collet at the point it hangs out is about 0.718". The overall length of the collet is 2.88" and the hangout is .28".


    Hangout in Bridgeport M-head.


    Did Halco supply special collets that were shorter?

    We need Halcohead and anyone else with a Halco milling head to chime in with info about their Halco head collets.
    Agreed. Something is surely odd, here.

    We need to tease-out just what.

    I haven't had a 3-D, physical, "in-the-metal" MT collet in my hand for right about sixty years this coming summer (BirdPort round-ram, E.A. Myers Day Job).

    But... from the easily-found reminders of photos and drawings, and "taper" quite aside, they are similar, not identical, as to ID grip surface configuration, to B&S collets.

    B&S I DO have to-hand, and they are no more pleased with excessive stick-out than MT's design would be.

    Nor do any of my three B&S #9 "motherships" place them at any significant stick-out.

    Nor do my few sizes of "native" 40-taper collets hang-out, although THOSE type could actually handle stick-out due to the "meat" they have at the forward end.

    I don't see Halco having short-MT collets made.

    I could see them using the collet as a torque-limiting slip-clutch off the back of reducing their ultimate grip.


    P.S. I never use my B&S 7 Halco milling head because it didn't come with a motor or motor pulley and I haven't gotten either for it yet. And I had the one Nathan has until I sold it to him.
    That should be easy enough to sort. Commodity goods from one of but a handful of makers, pulleys have been, mostly.

    What do you need?

  4. #24
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    d9fe9b01-5e7d-4963-8858-5ca419649df9.jpg


    Thanks Ken and Irby for the guidance. Got the ER32 MT3 in today and it fits pretty well I think. I’ll pin a new 1/2-13 drawbar on the handle this weekend and I should be good to go.

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    Looks cool and that will hold things a lot better than the old collets.

    Irby

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    Quote Originally Posted by DeSelle View Post
    d9fe9b01-5e7d-4963-8858-5ca419649df9.jpg


    Thanks Ken and Irby for the guidance. Got the ER32 MT3 in today and it fits pretty well I think. I’ll pin a new 1/2-13 drawbar on the handle this weekend and I should be good to go.
    Good move, and an economical compromise!

    Doesn't take a high-count of collets to cover its whole range, so two sets are affordable. Then even unexpected damage need not become a show-stopper for a task.

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    How much "headroom" are you loosing with that setup? What will be your max height over the table?

  9. #28
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    A little of course. With a ratty ( I know) 6” Kurt I have about 4-1/4” over the top of the jaws. I think I can get another 1-2 inches lower on the knee also but I am making a new jack screw for the knee as we speak because the original was loose an slipped. The mill had a jack under the knee when I got it from Irby. I wasn’t sure why until I got it all apart and cleaned up. There is plenty of room for what would typically do. I have a planer and shaper to work with as well so I’ll find a way to make anything I need



    2ef63034-78f1-46f1-806f-dc45914bb28c.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by DeSelle View Post
    A little of course. With a ratty ( I know) 6” Kurt I have about 4-1/4” over the top of the jaws. I think I can get another 1-2 inches lower on the knee also but I am making a new jack screw for the knee as we speak because the original was loose an slipped. The mill had a jack under the knee when I got it from Irby. I wasn’t sure why until I got it all apart and cleaned up. There is plenty of room for what would typically do. I have a planer and shaper to work with as well so I’ll find a way to make anything I need



    2ef63034-78f1-46f1-806f-dc45914bb28c.jpg
    AngLocks and downforce, in general are righteous. But a Kurt ain't the only game in town. This one could be "overkill"?

    Cheapest approach?

    Apply your HORIZONTAL milling hold-down goods to lay the work right on the table for vertical milling, too. Mitee-Bites?

    Next, see about two-piece vise mates that use the table, directly, no frame of their own needed.

    It's a LIGHT mill. EITHER H or V.

    You won't be moving metal like a vintage 16,000 lb avoir K&T ass-kicker, ever.

  11. #30
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    Any updates or progress on your mill? Action shots maybe???


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