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Help back-plating 6 Jaw set-true chuck

Froneck

Titanium
Joined
Dec 4, 2010
Location
McClure, PA 17059
I purchased a nice made in USA 8" 6 Jaw set-true chuck cheap at HGR but it had no back plate. I found a D1-6 back plate on ebay for set-true chuck. But it's not made for the chuck I have. Actually I can't see why 6 jaw chucks are any good for anything except precision round stock and that is iffy too. But I don't have one so I can add to my collection being I have every chuck size and type to fit 4 of my lathes with D1-6 spindles.
I plan to machine the back-plate to fit. Mounting holes in the chuck are 3/8 X 16. What size holes should I bore to provide clearance for set-true adjustment. Further more what clearance should I make on the projection into the chuck that the 4 adjusting screws engage?
I lied about having only one 6 jaw chuck, I have another 5" threaded back 6 jaw chuck that I threaded a shaft to fit and chuck in in a 10" 3 jaw chuck. An old Cushman with 2 sets of jaws and an additional odd set that is wider and softer on the top though the scroll teeth are very hard. This chuck a 2 piece jaws so I van make soft top jaws and my interest in having the larger 6 jaws chuck.
 
Thanks guys!!!!! I get working on it and post photos when complete.

They aren't really for "precision" round stock.

Main use is thin wall rings and tubing where more jaws = lower unit pressure, and closer spaced = (hopefully) enough grip with less distortion.

Otherwise? With neither of "actually USEFUL" distortion or uber-uber- roundness?

If a 6-Jaw is all you have, it sometimes makes sense to pull every second jaw and use it as a 3-J, all 3 of which WILL assuredly bear. Whereas NOT all six will do, or at least not with identical force.

Feurda-Gator forged 6J worth... but damned seldom used, what with 2-J, 4-J, collets, magnetic, etc...

:)

BTW.. dimensions on my adjustable's backplate are published by the chuck maker who sells such goods to fit. Bison, same again. Yours should be as well if you seek them.

That takes some guesswork out of what size and shape you need to hit. Not that it is any huge mystery.
 
Can also pull 1 opposing pair and use it on square stock.

Meah... that works better with a 12-jaw... Oh... wait a minute...

How about just swapping-in a 4-jaw? Advantage is double the grip annnnnnd... one can actually CENTER the stock.

Whom, ever, wudda thunk THAT combination might be handy? Ennybody ever seen such of a thing as a 4-jaw independent lathe chuck?

Kinda cheatin', ain't it?

:D
 
I have quite a few chucks probably too many! Having many different size jaws is my desire. I do quite a bit of maintenance work for local company and need to chuck various IDs so different jaw sizes are required.
I also do quite a bit of square shaft work. Conveyor drive and idler cogs have square bores so square bar is turned round on the ends for bearings and hollow input gear reducer drives. I have both 4 jaw independent and independent/universal chucks. I rough turn the ends then finish the shaft between centers. Having top name USA made lathes I reduce 1-1/2" square SS stock to round in one pass. From what I've found square bars are not straight nor square and using a 6 jaw chuck on square bar stock will not work well for me. My interest in 6 jaw chucks is as mentioned on thin wall stock. A side job I do is making trigger shoes for the 1911 style pistol. Machined from cored Alum. Bronze a ring that is eventually cut into 4 shoes is machined. After cutting off the turned ring I finish the other side in a 6 jaw chuck gripping the ring in the ID.
 








 
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