Help identify old 5C grinding fixture

Anybody know the maker??

Picked up this old fixture cheap ($25), well, seemed cheap enough at the time lol.

I figure it was for sharpening endmills.

Damage around the nose area suggests it was used on a T&C grinder.....a lot!

The detent ring is marked 24T, so I guess it probably came with a set of these with different divisions.

Other than the graduation Mark's for the angles, only markings I could see is stamped into one of the lands. My best guess is GF3LAX.

The go leg handle appears to have been an afterthought, but is not without merit.

I figure I'll clean it up, and keep it handy. Maybe I'll even make some more detent wheels.

Steve W.

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Wow, thought for sure someone would recognize the maker on this. Oh well, it's not that important, I doubt knowing the maker would lead me to a source for more detent wheels. Guess I'll have to make some as need arises.

Steve.

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It isn’t from a grinder that I recognize.
I know it isn’t one of the standard work heads from Cincinnati #2 , Brown and Sharpe 10N , Hembrug ,K.O. Lee or Tos ,that I know about
Maybe some measurements would help.
You might do some Google image searches for Norton ,DoAll ,OK Tool ,Hybco , tool and cutter grinders .
You may be able to adapt used index discs from another work head .
You could probably find an other used work head with several index discs for the cost of one new index disc for any machine where new parts are still available.
I would guess making them your self if you can or adapting some from another machine would be your easiest option ,

Grinders sold primarily for sharpening wood working tools had index discs like that .
Many woodworking cutters that are sharpened on the flute face need to be indexed where as machine shop cutting tools tended to be sharpened using a support finger on the tooth being ground.
Most woodworking tools have a number of teeth that divide into 24 like 2, 4,6,8, and 12.so that is the most common division plate.

If the work head is built to metric measurements it could be European or Japanese .
Whitworth threads on on the fasteners would suggest made in U.K.

The spindle nose may be a collet adapter of some kind that can sometimes be knocked out from the other end .
The damage on the end suggests to me that it was used for grinding the flute faces of router bits with larger than ideal wheels and without the benefit of extended nose collets or holders.
Regards,
Jim

QT: { Grinders sold primarily for sharpening wood working tools had index discs like that .}
Very common to have 24-36 and other indexes on such a work head, agree check the threads to see if they are metric. The damage on the end should just be ground to be that angle with a small flat on the end.
If the bearings are still good it is a valuable work head for continued use.
Even if the ID taper is shot, arbors can be ground in place to a locating mark and so run true.

If mine I would put in a T slot or three bolt holes in the flat bar projection to hole a finger holding bar.

You might place a motor nearby and with a belt have a motorized work head.

OT: [lead me to a source for more detent wheels.]
I don't understand that...

Don't wire brush the protractor, but use a fine grit abrasive paper backed with something stiff like a cut of plastic milk bottle and use that like a hone to just mostly clean up the lines and numbers. Then wipe with oil.

That way the number edges are sharp and crisp.
Just flat file the bugs and dents down to original surface.

michiganbuck said:

QT: { Grinders sold primarily for sharpening wood working tools had index discs like that .}
Very common to have 24-36 and other indexes on such a work head, agree check the threads to see if they are metric. The damage on the end should just be ground to be that angle with a small flat on the end.
If the bearings are still good it is a valuable work head for continued use.
Even if the ID taper is shot, arbors can be ground in place to a locating mark and so run true.

If mine I would put in a T slot or three bolt holes in the flat bar projection to hole a finger holding bar.

Click to expand...

I like the idea for mounting a locating finger like on my end mill sharpening jig.

I haven't verified if both thos flats are ground paralell to the bore, but I'm betting they are, and probably were for running an indicator over them to tram it in. At least the side one. Top might've been to precisely set the tilt angle?

Steve.

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Rochleau, they made quite a few different ones. I own a couple.

Cyclotrongy

I had forgotten about Rocheleau .
This video showed up when I tried a search
YouTube
The work head looks much like the head shown in the O.P.

Rocheleau Tool & Die Co.
I knew someone who had one of their radius grinding attachments .
There are some Google Images of them from a past auction .
Regards,
Jim

Cyclotronguy said:

Rochleau, they made quite a few different ones. I own a couple.

Cyclotrongy

Click to expand...

Thanks!

Steve.

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To cleanup the number use stiff back fine emery paper..when you see a nick take you fine file ti just clean off that bump down to original surface. That keep he number crisp and does not loose and depth..Grind the nose end to be about 1/8 flat 90. turn the the angle of all the hacking and grind at the angle to make it look Ok/good. you may not wish to clean up 100%

Grind cool so to not damage and lube that may still be inside *Put a strip around and casting joints to and openings where grit may get in.

If that is like a rotary fixture I have, the 5C is a sleeve inside a larger taper and can driven out and replaced.

Tom