Help identifying year of Lodge and Shipley 16" Lathe
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  1. #1
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    Default Help identifying year of Lodge and Shipley 16" Lathe

    Hi,

    I have recently acquired this 16" Lodge and Shipley Lathe. Not sure the bed length, but the whole lathe is 13' long. I am wondering if anyone can tell me what year this is. The serial # is 29,069. I'm guessing late teens. I am planning on restoring this great old piece of machinery. It was in a local machine shop for many years. Saved it from being scrapped... $200

    Thank you,
    Dave
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails img_3837.jpg   img_3838.jpg  

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    You can tell its later than about 1927 by the apron clutch levers. Older has star knobs as in this thumbnail. Thanks to Mike C. for the scans from 1916

    Yours has the lead screw clutch that can be actuated by adjustable stops

    What passed for a "manual" in 1921

    http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/2104/6068.pdf
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails l-spg28.jpg  
    Last edited by johnoder; 06-04-2019 at 08:29 AM.

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  6. #4
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    It's a bit difficult to find spindle tooling for their Double Nose spindle that they had from teens to 1937. The threads are inside that big "cup shaped" portion
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails l-spg9.jpg  

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    Awesome! Thanks for the good information guys. Looking forward to getting the old gal up and running. It's a little newer than the flat belt South Bend I had in my shop

    Fortunately it has a 3 and 4 jaw chuck with it (hopefully good shape) should be hauling it to my shop in the next week or so. Guess I'll need to keep my eye out for additional tooling for it.

    Any idea what the taper is in the tailstock?

    Dave

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    Looks like somebody wasn't satisfied with the generous 16 inch swing, which was probably 18 inch in reality......and butchered on the ways underneath the chuck.

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    I see some lathe drive dogs hanging on the far wall, if allowed be sure and look for extra tooling around the shop. Even if you have to up the ante money wise

  12. #8
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    Thumbnail Post #3 says MT4 centers. Fair chance spindle taper is MT 4 1/2 - meaning there was a sleeve for HS center

    Quote Originally Posted by DHT View Post
    Awesome! Thanks for the good information guys. Looking forward to getting the old gal up and running. It's a little newer than the flat belt South Bend I had in my shop

    Fortunately it has a 3 and 4 jaw chuck with it (hopefully good shape) should be hauling it to my shop in the next week or so. Guess I'll need to keep my eye out for additional tooling for it.

    Any idea what the taper is in the tailstock?

    Dave

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  14. #9
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    Hi John,

    The motor that is on it is 2hp 3ph (pic attached). The shaft was bent moving it so I'm going to repower it with 3ph ran through sensorless vector vfd. I have one on my milling machine and it works great. What hp do you think I should go with?

    Also, do you have a source for a lubrication chart?

    Thanks!
    Daveimg_3038.jpg

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    Yep... I think they were ground out. The V ways appear to be untouched so it won't affect carriage operation.
    Guess when you get to be 90 you're bound to have a few bad accidents

    Dave

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    Hi John,

    Not familiar with a 4-1/2 MT is there a sleeve you can buy or?

    Thanks!
    Dave

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    3 to 5 HP would be fine. Various old related pubs suggest less. (the MUCH lighter 16" South Bend used 1 1/2 H.P.) Naturally the more the HP the more the VFD costs I would guess.

    The most important consideration is the fact that it was a SLOW design with PLAIN (Babbitt) spindle bearings that were never intended for much over 400 RPM. (Speed listed in 1927 L&S pub). It will be smart to not get carried away on jacking up Hz on the VFD. (the noise the lathe will make at elevated speeds will help remind you)

    No lube charts. Basically, find all the many oil ports/tubes, get any crud out and use a squirt can with such as Mobil DTE Heavy Medium on them. Carriage apron and saddle are fed oil from ports on top of saddle and in the various ports on the apron itself. Vactra way oil good here.
    As far as I know there will be no apron oil pump, but I am probably ignorant on these later machines (post 1927). In any case oil probably is still total loss, meaning on the floor by and by. Oil level on head stock to rear of chuck. ISO 46 such as Mobil DTE Medium ideal here. Probably takes about 3 gallons (My 24" takes seven). Internal head stock needs to be clean - a pain to get the cover off, but necessary to inspect felts that serve as filters over the front and rear spindle bearings. Yours will simply be a smaller version of the 24" in the thumbnails

    Spindle bore taper - don't buy anything until you know what you have. Highly likely that anything the least off beat will have to be made - totally normal for old machine tools
    Quote Originally Posted by DHT View Post
    Hi John,

    The motor that is on it is 2hp 3ph (pic attached). The shaft was bent moving it so I'm going to repower it with 3ph ran through sensorless vector vfd. I have one on my milling machine and it works great. What hp do you think I should go with?

    Also, do you have a source for a lubrication chart?

    Thanks!
    Daveimg_3038.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails dcp_0988.jpg   dcp_0989.jpg   dcp_0990.jpg   dcp_0991sm.jpg  
    Last edited by johnoder; 06-07-2019 at 12:44 PM.

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    Hi,
    I'm getting ready to take the headstock cover off to inspect felts and gears. I'm assuming I have to take the clutch housing off first. What about the two bolts behind the chuck? Any other advice appreciated!

    img_0325.jpgimg_0328.jpg

    Thanks,
    Dave

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    Yep on clutch housing off. Have fun.

    Two bolts are the front pair on the front spindle bearing, so no on them for now

    Here is my thread on fighting the clutch housing removal on my 24"

    More Old L&S Clutch Work

    Photos replaced at end of thread since PB screwed the originals

    There is a related thread about getting the horribly ruined retaining nut off before the pulley would even think about coming off

    24" L&S Selective Head Work

    Again with photos replaced at end

    ON EDIT - don't forget this clutch housing has oil in it

    Quote Originally Posted by DHT View Post
    Hi,
    I'm getting ready to take the headstock cover off to inspect felts and gears. I'm assuming I have to take the clutch housing off first. What about the two bolts behind the chuck? Any other advice appreciated!



    Thanks,
    Dave
    Last edited by johnoder; 10-20-2019 at 08:26 AM.

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  21. #15
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    Awesome John!
    Thanks for all the help

    Dave

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    You might see how it (getting HS cover off) goes with clutch housing left on. I had to have my clutch off, it was failing

    Take a look at this photo - the only bolts for the clutch are in lower section of head stock casting
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails dcp_0991sm.jpg  

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    Got it part way. There's a nut in there that has 3 small holes in the face... I'm assuming for a spanner. The pins are not symmetrical. There are two close together and one equidistant from those (triangle with small base) I don't think you could get any kind of socket in there, too tight. Because it's down in a hole, don't think I can tap it loose with small punch or chisel. Any words of wisdom?

    Thanks!
    Dave
    img_0331.jpg
    img_0334.jpg
    img_0339.jpg

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    I wondered about that... The only challege I could see is the clutch cover is sealed to both the lower case and the headstock cover. Might be tricky getting everything sealed at once.

  26. #19
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    Covered in second thread I posted - but if no notches (for face spanner) you have to alter tooling approach - and use one or more of those tapped holes - even if just for a pin or two to go into

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    Well, the cover popped right off without removing the clutch housing so I'm going to go with it. Gears look good, shift smoothly, nothing chipped or loose that I can see.

    There were no felts over the bearing holes. What's a good source for them?

    Thanks!
    Dave

    img_0352.jpgimg_0353.jpgimg_0351.jpg


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