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Thread: Hendey 14x6

  1. #41
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    To disassemble the tailstock, first remove the handwheel (you got that figured out already) now the quill and screw will slide out the front. To remove the lock, fully unscrew the lock handle and use a screwdriver or similar through the front (where the quill came out) to push the lock up. You may need to soak the lock in penetrating oil, mine was pretty gummed up. The cap on back does unscrew, but I never could get mine to break loose, so I didn't remove it.

    My 14x6 also had a broken and brazed handwheel... I bought a replacement cast iron wheel off e-bay, but had to bush the hole to fit the ½ inch shaft.

    One other thing... if you broke the handwheel, there is a very good chance the shaft is bent, also. Mine was... I managed to straighten it to about .005". You may want to check yours when you get it apart.

    -Bear

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  3. #42
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    Thank you! I will check the shaft as you suggest

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

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    I got the tailstock almost completely disassembled. The rounded cap I used a hex key at an angle in a hole and used a hammer to break it free and it unscrewed pretty easily. Probably meant to use a spanner for it but it worked. I got the bottom half off, the clamping tapered lever out and the quill lock out too. What remains is the bolt for the tailstock clamp still sticks straight down - its on an eccentric shaft the locking lever went into - I can't figure how to get that out yet...no holes seem big enough....
    Also there is a hole on the top that I always assumed was for oil ...it appears to be a blind hole though or its REALLY got concrete crud hardened in at the bottom...I had the parts washer blasting in directly at it for about 10 minutes and then tried digging in there with a screwdriver....I don't see an opening in the tube the tailstock is in for lubrication which makes me wonder how lubrication is maintained there.
    20210227_214103.jpg
    20210227_214141.jpg
    20210227_214413.jpg
    20210227_214920.jpg
    20210227_215013.jpg

  5. #44
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    riftware:

    That hole is for storing a lubricant, usually white lead, used with dead centers. What is usually missing is the dabber that fits in the
    hole and is used to apply the lubricant to the center when turning between centers or supporting the end of a shaft. While white lead
    was originally used or some type of graphite grease, you can use any modern grease that is available. This hole has no connection with
    the Spindle, which is oil lubricated.

    Hendeyman

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  7. #45
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    Well thanks... I'll stop trying to dig a hole to china or trying to take a left turn at the bottom of it!

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

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    The eccentric shaft will push out to the back, then the bolt slides out the bottom. It may need some 'persuasion'...

    -Bear

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    While you have it apart, could you measure the overall length of the quill screw for me? I think mine has been shortened, but I'm not sure...

    Thanks- Bear

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    Quote Originally Posted by 682bear View Post
    The eccentric shaft will push out to the back, then the bolt slides out the bottom. It may need some 'persuasion'...

    -Bear
    hmmm - headed out to shop now....is there something I need to unscrew on the front (operator side I assume you mean)to take the larger thing the handle slides into off? I feel like I'm missing something stupid as what I think of as the backside of machine (away from operator) has the end of the bar but it almost looks like its larger than the hole as in capped or something.
    20210227_214103.jpg (thats what I think is the front)
    These are maybe better pictures of front and back albeit the tappered handle is still in
    20210226_213703-1-.jpg
    20210226_214419-1-.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by 682bear View Post
    While you have it apart, could you measure the overall length of the quill screw for me? I think mine has been shortened, but I'm not sure...

    Thanks- Bear
    I make it at 11.5 inches
    20210228_155522.jpg

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    I'm kinda stumped .. the back has a cap I believe - banging on it had no effect...the front is bigger than the back so I don't see how it can go all the way through...rotating the front yields minimal change in the locking clamp bot so I'd love to be able to get that eccentric out and look at its condition plus I just want to clean it out and lubricate it. I realized I never posted a bottom view.
    20210228_163100.jpg

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    The back end of the shaft is larger than the hole... it should come out that direction. I didn't take the handle off, I used it as a handle to pull the shaft through. It will come out, it just slides in.

    Thanks for the measurement... I'll take mine apart tomorrow and compare.

    -Bear

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    I think you are looking at it backward... the locking handle is on the back of the tailstock. You can see the end of the shaft on the front of the tailstock...

    -Bear

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    Quote Originally Posted by 682bear View Post
    The back end of the shaft is larger than the hole... it should come out that direction. I didn't take the handle off, I used it as a handle to pull the shaft through. It will come out, it just slides in.

    Thanks for the measurement... I'll take mine apart tomorrow and compare.

    -Bear
    I got it - I had to man up and hit the backside pretty sharply. Incidentally I stumbled on your post on hobby machinist - your a ways ahead of me on your rebuild.
    On the eccentric it doesn't appar there is anything much to adjust I'll have to check clearance on the bolt shaft where it goes onto the eccentric. I can't believe how fast this thing is rusting since I sat the whole thing in the parts washer last night. I'm thinking given the lack of an oil channel into that cavity I may hit it with the sticky spray stuff everyone recommended for the gears - CRC - 3058 Industries Extreme Duty Open Gear LUBE, Just spreay it all over inside the cavity.
    20210228_163100.jpg
    20210228_180128.jpg
    20210228_180616.jpg
    20210228_180622.jpg

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    Good, glad you got it... all of the adjustment is in the nut underneath the clamp on the bottom of the ways. The eccentric on the shaft doesn't move the clamp much... maybe a sixteenth of an inch or less.

    I've been working on mine for 4 months, maybe... I'm pretty much finished except for the electrical system, I've started on it, but it's going pretty slow.

    -Bear

  18. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by 682bear View Post
    I think you are looking at it backward... the locking handle is on the back of the tailstock. You can see the end of the shaft on the front of the tailstock...

    -Bear
    your right... with the stuff taken out I got my back's and fronts mixed up

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by riftware View Post
    I make it at 11.5 inches
    20210228_155522.jpg
    Yup... I figured... I had already figured that my screw was about 1.5 inches too short to push a center or chuck out. Mine measures 10 inches... I guess I'll be making a new lead screw for the tailstock...

    Thanks- Bear

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    Well cleaned up , removed the rust, primed and put first coat of color on tailstock and its base. I've also taken a soft wire wheel to the domed cap on the back end to remove crud. Kinda unsure if I should paint it or just oil it and leave it shiny. Also the heavy clamp weight on the bottom do most just leave the cast iron oil coated or do you paint it to keep it from rusting and to make it easier to clean up?
    20210301_222144.jpg
    20210301_222218.jpg

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    Ok - the next thing I'm stuck on is on the headstock - I got it all apart except the reversing dog gear/bevel gears. I actually got the shaft out but I'm left with the 3 bevel gears and an external gear on the back of the headstock. That gear on the back is on incredibly tightly ...it seems like its on a hollow shaft and the shaft the dog was on (hope I'm using right term) went through the middle of the shaft the back gear is on. I don't want to break something but the one video I found was on re-assmbly. The bridging bevel gear went back in first (there seems to be a cap of some sort I haven't figured out how to get off or if I even should). the gear that brings the power in on the outside of the heas wasn't on....I'm having trouble with pulling it off though and I don't know how to get that bridging bevel off either.

    Oh for the record I've already removed that little screw on the face of that outside back gear.

    20210307_152348.jpg
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    20210307_153435.jpg
    20210307_153447.jpg

  23. #59
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    Ok - the next thing I'm stuck on is on the headstock
    Pat's parts are instructive - the shaft for the rear bevel is HEADED - meaning it has to come out from the gear side - not the head stock side

    reversingset.jpg

  24. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnoder View Post
    Pat's parts are instructive - the shaft for the rear bevel is HEADED - meaning it has to come out from the gear side - not the head stock side

    reversingset.jpg
    Ok - so if I'm interpreting that right I have to beng upward on the central bevel gear.
    Any ideas of effective way of getting that outside gear off without damage? Take the central bevel out then bang the hollowshaft in the center of that outside gear inwards?


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