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Thread: Hendey 14x8

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    Default Hendey 14x8

    75237385_2639346512795497_4277300828496199680_n.jpg20191222_181532.jpg20191222_160228.jpg20191221_195925.jpg

    So I picked up a 14x8 Hendey, came with the taper attachment (main reason I wanted it) a steady rest, and some chucks. Problem is the spindle is stuck like a zillion other ones I read about when I researched the brand/machine on here. Theres enough information about that here I can reference one of those, just wanted to ask 1 question I didn't see addressed in those threads and then address some other things about the machine.

    Now I put oil into both spindle bearings and it slowly leaked out the front spindle bearing and didnt overflow on the rear, now the threads I read mainly talked about the front being problematic so my question is: theres clearly some degree of clearance in the front if the oil spills out? So it's more likely the back?

    Anyways onto the other parts I wanted to ask about the taper attachment, I've never used one before on an engine lathe, and taper cutting is set different on a VBM (turning wise what I am mor familiar with), can someone give me a hand how it works? Can I do tapered threads with that then?

    The Morse 2 1/2 in the tailstock I read about in some info about these on vintage machinery, I dont recall ever coming across half sizes before am I misunderstanding? To be fair I havent even tried a holder/drill yet so maybe I am missing something obvious.

    And then last question is about the Cullman drive arrangement it has overhead. I removed this to lift it off the trailer would it be dangerous to put it on and slowly move it with skates? Its final resting place is going to be in a position that is hard to access behind it and I'd rather move it into place with the drive kn, but I really dont feel like putting the lathe on its face is a good way to start our relationship.

    Oh and pictures included.

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    Nice lathe! That's a lot of weight on the end of a long arm. My Hendey has a similar arrangement but my drive is a little smaller. I ended up taking mine off when moving it. I had similar issues that you face in that I didn't have room behind. I got the lathe nearly in place a little off the wall. I put the drive and motor back on and carefully moved it that last 2 feet into place. I don't know if you have that option. At the time I thought it was overkill to do that. Later while adjusting the lathe for leveling it about tipped over backwards as I was jacking from the front.

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    Yeh I read something that it was only 1 ton, I think that was an earlier rev, the hoist was not happy. I am guessing without the motor 2600 just hipshotting it.

    It is 3/8 wall tube though, that's not a harbor freight hoist just so you domt think I am too insane.

    Yeh I'll be able to move it afew feet it has maybe 5 or 6 to go to be where I want it, hopefully that's not too bad with the motor.

    I have machine wedge leveling pads for it to sit on so hopefully I wont have to jack it at all and the 1/2 inch stroke is enough. I'd cry if I tipped er over at the endzone.

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    Myrmidon:

    Normally, oil doesn't visibly leak out of the Front Spindle, but is contained within the Bronze Bearing Cap. There is a drain hole at the
    six o'clock position under the Bearing Shell. If this gets plugged up, then the oil level in the Cap will get high enough to drip down the outside of the Cap. Unscrew the Cap and run a wire through the drain hole, finish up with a pipe cleaner. That should allow the oil to return to the Oil cellar.

    I have original copies of the instructions for setting up the Taper Attachment, but I am not familiar with the process for copying and
    posting this material. Fortunately, it appears in most of the Hendey catalogs and possibly someone who is more computer literate than
    myself can post this material.

    At one time, half-size Morse Tapers were common and Hendey used the 2-1/2, 3-1/2, 4-1/2 and 5-1/2 MT. I don't know of any company that
    is producing them today. When I need one of these half-size tapers, I usually just grind up a new one. I still use all of the original
    Hendey Taper gauges when grinding new centers.

    I have had several machines fitted with Cullman Converters (Converters is my term for this type arrangement) and they work very well,
    but they are very top heavy and will tip over with very little warning. When I have had the problem of space preventing the installation
    of the Cullman, I assemble it as close to the wall as possible and then tie ropes to the top of the Cullman, both fore and aft. As I
    slowly move the machine (I have had Cullman Converters on milling machines), I adjust the ropes to make certain that there is no way
    that the Cullman can start to tip. It is a slow process, but it is better than getting in a hurry and damaging a machine.

    Hendeyman

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    I searched the internet but couldnt find any dimensions for half sizes, are there some in machinery's handbook or some other resource? I have no problem making them i just cannot for the life of me find numbers to work too, I bought the lathe to make Morse Taper 5 line bars and holders for my boring mill,so making a couple more weird tools shoulsnt be too bad.

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    So it's more likely the back?
    The back is floating - no wore out thrust face to cause binding like front

    To say that another way.....its (the rear spindle bearing) conical journal can move back and forth along spindle

    The usual stuff like "manual" and my write up on its lead screw reverse

    http://pounceatron.dreamhosters.com/...dey-manual.pdf

    Write up starts Post #17

    Hendey lathe "emergency"!

    Thumbnail is catalog page from early twenties or so - looks like you would be around 2500 with the drive

    ph
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 12-14.jpg  

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    i just cannot for the life of me find numbers to work too,
    Be amazed if it was still 2 1/2, but here you go - from the horse's mouth
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails hendey_tapers_page_1.jpg   hendey-tapers2.jpg  

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    Here is a page on the taper attachment

    The unobtrusive little #14 is the boss of all - loosen it to enable use of the T/A
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1940-hendey-op-man_37crop.jpg  

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    According to EngineBill, the tin in the spindle bearing crystallizes expanding (and locking) them. I have seen a similar effect on the bearings of a Barnes lathe belonging to a friend of mine. In his case, the rear bearing crumbled in nicely crystallized pieces when he tried to removed it.
    In my opinion, it is important to avoid any impact when disassembling a stuck spindle on a similar lathe.

    Paolo

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    Serial is 28312

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    Myrmidon:

    Hendey Lathe No. 28312, a 14 x 8 Cone Head model, was completed on September 10, 1937. It was shipped with a Compound Rest, a Taper
    Attachment and two Chuck Plates. The original owner was the Crane company, Chicago, Illinois. (NOTE: This lathe is out of sequence in the
    manufacturing order, it should have been completed on July 9 or 10, 1930. The original order may have been cancelled and the number
    reassigned at a later date. There is nothing in the records to indicate the reason for the delay, but the Depression may have had some-
    thing to do with it. Keep in mind that the total lathe production at Hendey in 1932 was just nine machines.) There are very few Patterns,
    Castings or Repair Parts left in inventory for this lathe, but all of the original drawings are still in the files, so parts can be made
    if required.

    Hendeyman

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    Finally have the ways clean enough to test backlash. I am actually pretty surprised it appears theres only about 35ish thousandths of backlash in the cross slide. I was expecting much worse given the age of the machine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Myrmidon View Post
    Finally have the ways clean enough to test backlash. I am actually pretty surprised it appears theres only about 35ish thousandths of backlash in the cross slide. I was expecting much worse given the age of the machine.

    And some of that can be in the thrust bearings in the sliding block that is part of the TA arrangement - and is also the "anchor" for the cross slide screw

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    My 16x8 Hendey also has a stuck chuck. I've tried heat, penetrating fluid, etc. and only proceeded to successfully bend a 6' pry bar. Part of the issue is rigidly and safely locking the spindle so every bit of force is focused on the spindle threads.

    My solution will be to simply cut the back-plate away until only a coil of threads is left on the spindle nose. Mine has the 2 5/8"x6 thread which is thankfully still available off the shelf, so I'm going to buy a new 10" back plate to replace the one I destroy behind the 15" 4 jaw chuck on the lathe.

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    +1 to Mr Oder's comment about the binding bolt (#14 on the TA instructions). Back before everything was on the internet, that little bugger took me an embarrassingly long time to find. After finding it things went very well.

    Craig

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    M.B. Naegle:

    When purchasing replacement Chucks, Backing Plates and face Plates for you Hendey, keep in mind that the Spindle Thread Size listed in
    the catalogs is Nominal Size only. It was Hendey policy to make most Spindle Threads about .025" under the Nominal Size. Special taps
    were used for this purpose, which as far as I know were destroyed after Barber Colman stopped making Hendey lathes. Whenever I have to
    make a Backing Plate, instead of single pointing, I find it a bit easier to use a collapsible tap to get an exact fit.

    Hendeyman

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    I actually hadnt tried to get the chuck off yet, it's the spindle itself that is frozen up. Hopefully I can get the chuck off, because machining it off is not really an option since the spindle wont turn as it is.

    Was going to try a 1 inch piece of hex stock in the chuck and an impact on it, we shall see how that works if it works.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Myrmidon View Post
    I actually hadnt tried to get the chuck off yet, it's the spindle itself that is frozen up. Hopefully I can get the chuck off, because machining it off is not really an option since the spindle wont turn as it is.

    Was going to try a 1 inch piece of hex stock in the chuck and an impact on it, we shall see how that works if it works.
    This worked for me. I was a bit worried about breaking something but no adverse consequence to man or machine.
    Jammed a chunk of 2x4 under the cone pully and hit the i beam with a hammer. The sharp blows freed the threads.

    imag0198.jpg

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    Tried to get the chuck off

    Ooooof.

    Is it possible to do the shimming of the thrust cap with a chuck still on? I may need to machine it off.

    I got after it pretty hard with a torch, impact and a hammer and am worried I'll out flat spots on the bearings. I used a pipe/wrench as well and got the spindle to turn.

    Or are there any tricks I am missing?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Myrmidon View Post
    Tried to get the chuck off

    Ooooof.

    Is it possible to do the shimming of the thrust cap with a chuck still on? I may need to machine it off.

    I got after it pretty hard with a torch, impact and a hammer and am worried I'll out flat spots on the bearings. I used a pipe/wrench as well and got the spindle to turn.

    Or are there any tricks I am missing?
    shimming the thrust washer will require removing the spindle. In theory you could do that without removing the chuck at some point you will need to remove the chuck. It's best to do so before you remove the spindle.


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