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Hendey bevel gear removal

jsmith1

Plastic
Joined
Jan 6, 2009
Location
CT USA
Hello all. I've been lurking for a few years; this is my first post. I have a Hendey 14x6 lathe with 8 speed gearhead which was given to me 30 years ago. I've used it for a few small projects, It's worked well until recently when one of the bevel gears in the carriage drive mechanism lost a couple teeth. Now I'm stuck trying to remove the bevel gears. I got the keyed driveshaft and the dog clutch out. It looks like you have to remove the idler gear first but I can't figure out how. The idler shaft goes through the headstock and is flush with the outside. The outside end has a hole threaded 1/2-13. A picture I found appears to show the shaft has a small collar on the inside and a key but I can't see how the shaft is secured to the gear. I'm sure I'm missing something; maybe one of you guys can help.
Thanks
 
jsmith1, on my 1910 conehead the idler was a press fit in the headstock. I was able to drive it out with some smart taps on a brass punch. Hopefully Hendeyman will show up and give some good advice.

Good luck,

Craig
 
I have a 1910 14x6 8-speed gear head, which I dismantled for cleaning, painting, and a few repairs, years ago. I got as far as you have. I removed the inner shaft, one bevel gear, and the dog clutch, but couldn't figure out how to remove the idler bevel gear or the outer shaft and bevel gear. Here are some pictures I took after reassembly. I'm not sure they will help much, but note the end of the idler shaft on mine just has a centre hole rather than a 1/2 x 13 threaded hole. I wonder if yours was drilled and tapped to allow the shaft to be pulled out?

bevel_gears1_pm.jpg

bevel_gears2_pm.jpg

headstock_back_pm.jpg

David.
 
I should have been clearer in Post #3. The shaft that the single tooth dog clutch slides on was removed first, as well as the single tooth dog clutch, then the shaft holding the idler gear was driven into the headstock. There is a flange on that shaft, on the inside edge, that retains the idler gear. In order to remove the shaft it has to go to the inside of the headstock. If you go to the 4 minutes 20 second mark in this video (YouTube) there is a brief clip showing the installation of the idler gear and the removal was just the opposite (some one got in the way during the removal video so it didn't show anything, sometines you forget you are filming).

Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions as I have more video and photos of my project.

Craig
 
Thanks for all the help. I was able to remove the idler gear by making a bracket to brace the gear against the other side of the headstock and whacking on the flanged shaft with a 3 pound hammer. Now I need to find a replacement for the broken gear.
20190203_201116_001.jpg
Anyone have a spare?
 
That gear looks makeable. While I would not suppose Hendy used a parallel type tooth, that particular gear looks close enough to one that the regular 3-cut method of making a bevel gear would be very nearly correct. might need very little trimming.

The one visible issue would be the teeth in-line with the dog clutch tooth. I cannot tell if thee is room to fully cut without running into the tooth. But the OD side of the tooth should not be important, so if it got marred, there may be no problem with actual function.
 
The dogs for the clutch are fairly simple. There is a round section turned down on the back of the square stock and it is pressed into the gear.

Craig
 
And here I thought those old guys were just better than me!

That would make it much simpler to deal with then.
 
My cone head Hendey from the early twenty's (I think, no serial no.) has an issue with the shaft for the idler gear. The gear is tight on the shaft and loose in the headstock. There is a significant amount of side play so I think the bore in the headstock will need to be bushed. How do you set this up to maintain proper alignment? I may send this out to a shop that has a horizontal boring machine. I think I'm going to heat up the gear and try pressing the shaft out with an arbor press, may be a little less traumatic than hitting with a hammer. Here is a picture, I don't have it apart yet.20190413_214748.jpg
 
Bret Rochotte, that bore should be perpendicular to the v on the bottom of the headstock. I wouldn't think it would be too hard to setup on the table of a horizontal mill and bore it out for a bushing.

Craig
 








 
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