Hendey Conehead with a homemade carriage? - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    Hoo! Only thing I can think of as might bust a Hendey saddle is an overhead crane op dropping sumthin' sore MASSIVE! I doubt you could create an on-machine crash bad enough to even come close.

    Whomever was desperate seems to have had the remains of that, as parts of it were re-used.

    One might guess "wartime" and few other options to be had?

    Probably CAN turn out better work than an HF LSO, even crippled as it is, but still..

    If the dream is A) a new casting, B) salvage from a partout, fitted-up.. what's your "plan C"?
    My guess on the broken saddle/everything is that it was being moved and got dropped on it's face.

  2. #22
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    Last question... the threads on the big end of the big bearing, and the ring nut that goes with it, are badly called. If I'm not able to get the backlash se properly, what is the suggested material for making a new bearing and ring nut?

  3. #23
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    Any idea what the taper is in the tailstock? Opening measures roughly 1.25". What about the headstock? Is it standardized in some way that I could get a faceplate and center, or a 4 jaw?
    16" Early twenties catalog page says.....

    Tail Stock is #3 Morse Hendey taper. May have been opened to MT 4 by now - which about 1.25 on big end

    Head stock thread is 2 1/2 - 6 - the only "standard" this is is Hendey's, and no, you don't have much recourse except make a back plate to fit, and bolt a flat back chuck to it. You won't "find" one that fits unless it is off an identical Hendey

    Same catalog page states the spindle taper is 4 1/2 Morse Hendey

    If the Post # 22 about the threads being galled are related to SPINDLE, this may be your first findings on a very common old Hendey spindle binding issue - about which there are MANY posts

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimsnell View Post
    Last question... the threads on the big end of the big bearing, and the ring nut that goes with it, are badly called. If I'm not able to get the backlash se properly, what is the suggested material for making a new bearing and ring nut?
    Google this: site: practicalmachinist.com "hendeyitis"

    Get the end-thrust sorted, you can probably save the one you have. See also "thread restorer file".

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnoder View Post
    16" Early twenties catalog page says.....

    Tail Stock is #3 Morse Hendey taper. May have been opened to MT 4 by now - which about 1.25 on big end

    Head stock thread is 2 1/2 - 6 - the only "standard" this is is Hendey's, and no, you don't have much recourse except make a back plate to fit, and bolt a flat back chuck to it. You won't "find" one that fits unless it is off an identical Hendey

    Same catalog page states the spindle taper is 4 1/2 Morse Hendey

    If the Post # 22 about the threads being galled are related to SPINDLE, this may be your first findings on a very common old Hendey spindle binding issue - about which there are MANY posts
    Definitely has hendeyitis.

    The chuck thats currently on it is a flat back. Suggesting that I just make a face plate to match? How would I come up with a center to match that Morse Hendey 4 1/2, when i don't have either a taper attachement or a set of centers to do an offset tailstock?
    Last edited by jimsnell; 08-12-2018 at 10:08 PM. Reason: spellcheck

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimsnell View Post
    Definitely has hendeyitis.

    The chuck thats currently on it is a flat back. Suggesting that I just make a face plate to match? How would I come up with a center to match that Morse Hendey 4 1/2, when i don't have either a taper attachement or a set of centers to do an offset tailstock?
    Some of these things CAN be "bootstrapped" with nothing obviously useful to start with and the damndest of farm-boy techniques. They had to be before communications and shipping got universal, affordable, fast, and easy.

    Not worth it in the internet age.

    Lay by some cash or trading material. Identify what you need first as accurately as you can do.

    Ask for very specific help, one insoluble "opportunity" at a go.

  7. #27
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    jimsnell:

    A No.4-1/2 Morse Hendey Taper is the Spindle Taper, not the size of the Spindle Center, which is a No.3, the same as used in the Tailstock. All you need is a Center Bushing, which is basically a reducing bushing, No.4-1/2 to a No.3. I will look around the shop, I may have a spare. If not, next time I am grinding Centers and Bushings, I could make one for you.

    Hendey Spindle Thread sizes are only nominal and should be used for reference only. In most cases the Spindle threads are about .025"
    under the nominal size. As johnoder has stated, a standard 2-1/2" - 6 chuck or face plate will be loose on a 2-1/2" - 6 Hendey Spindle.
    If you could find a Driving Plate for your lathe, it would make a good Back Plate for a chuck. It would still require a bit of careful
    machine work to make certain that everything was concentric, but it would be a lot easier, considering the condition of your lathe, than
    trying to cut accurate internal threads.

    Because the Aluminum Bronze, that the bearings are cast from, gets brittle with age, do not try to remove the bearings. The large bronze
    nut is primarily used to collect and return oil from the bearing to the oil cellar. They normally get damaged when someone uses a pin
    punch to unscrew them instead of using the proper pin spanner. Do not attempt to restore the Bearing Threads because in many cases they
    will chip off causing a bigger mess. If the thrust surface (the front of the bearing) is worn, very carefully draw file it to an even
    flat surface at right angles to the center line of the Spindle. Then follow the instructions in this Forum for shimming the Thrust
    Washer. If you find pitting or scoring in the Bearings, carefully dress down any high spots and provided the damage isn't extensive,the
    pits will retain oil.

    Hendeyman

  8. #28
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    Definitely has hendeyitis.
    So you will need all possible info that has assisted others to FIX this issue - it is most certainly not ADJUSTABLE

    The shimming has long worked well. Other approaches by some members forget about shimming and use such as TIMESAVER compound - used forever by the antique auto avocation to fit Babbitt bearings
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails front-detail.jpg   all-parts.jpg   spindle-alphas.jpg   spindle-removal-instruct.jpg   list.jpg  


  9. #29
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    Public service announcement.

    Moving a lathe without either a crane or forklift is horrible.

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