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Kwik Way H6177 Piston Turning & Grindin Machine worth

zeebraa14

Plastic
Joined
Sep 30, 2017
I need to sell a Kwik Way H 6177 Piston Turning & Grinding Machine of my fathers. I do not know how much it is worth or who to advertise to. Can you Help?

BBuzan
 
There is no modern application for them... they were used when the piston companies sold "blanks" and either the garage or, more often, the local auto machine shop finished them. That said... I'd love to have one but I am one of the very few hobbiests that is interested in making his own pistons and even I don't really need it. If it were local, I'd actually be interested.
 
Same here- if it were local...

The Kwikway H series piston turning and grinding machine is a husky little machine tool on its own cast iron pedestal. Shipping alone from Missouri to Rhode Island or NY is the deal breaker. My buddy does restorations of antique and classic cars, rebuilds the engines including boring of cylinders, and works on anything and everything from Model T'a and A's to Rolls Royces, as well as tractors, industrial engines... He has quite a collection of oldtime automotive rebuilding machinery, much of which he still uses. He actually planes cylinder heads on a ca 1919 planer, even doing modern high end car heads from Mercedes and BMW's. The old planer saw little use over its life, so is a nice tight machine. With a broad nose tool, it produces a flatness on heads that is better than what the local automotive machine shops can deliver.

I am sure that if that piston turning and grinding machine were in close reach, he'd be on it.

Truth to tell, when he does need a piston for something old or odd, he orders it from Egge or some other firms. The days of getting piston blanks are likely long past. I remember years ago, the old Marquette Auto Parts machine shop in Marquette, Michigan had a complete automotive machine shop. It went back long enough to have a babbitting bench and line boring machine for boring babbitted bearings on old auto and industrial engines. There were two other interesting machines. One was a "piston grinder" which "cam ground" the piston skirts. "Cam grinding" produced a geometry that was not a true cylinder at ambient temperature. This was to allow for the uneven expansion of the heavier areas at the wrist pin bosses, vs the thinner areas of the skirt. As the piston reached operating temperature, the differences in outer diameter done by the cam grinding would cause the piston to expand so it was a true cylinder. I believe the manufacturer of the piston "cam grinder" was "tobin Arp". There was another little machine for knurling piston skirts. This was a simple machine, using compressed air to press a set of knurls against the piston, which was supported on a set of rollers. The piston was manually turned through a partial revolution to put knurling on the areas of the skirt at 90 degrees to the wrist pin bosses. These areas saw the side thrust loads from the wrist pin and connecting rod. The story was this machine saw a lot of use during WWII when auto parts were non-existent for civilian vehicles, so rebuilding or coaxing more life out of worn parts was the name of the game. After WWII, the piston knurler saw use with hot rodders, who liked to loosen the clearances in an engine and knurl the pistons to hold oil. The other use was also to coax more life out of worn pistons. People nursing along some old beater of a vehicle, or having a woods truck or old tractor would be the main customers for this kind of work in later years.

The shop had an ancient Reed & Prentice geared head lathe which had come out of a steam locomotive roundhouse. This was used for refacing flywheels as well as roughing down piston blanks and making valve guides. There was a van Norman crankshaft grinder, made to take the straight-8 crankshafts from the 20's and 30's, and there was a van Norman boring bar for boring cylinders, along with a variety of Sunnen hones.

By comparison, a few years back, my wife's Chevy Blazer had a "check engine" light that would not clear. No codes came up on the computer diagnostic tests. A few mechanics advanced various theories, all of which had expensive- and not guaranteed- repairs. We took the Blazer to an oldtime mechanic with a shop behind his house. This guy was said to be the best troubleshooter and diagnostician in our area. He did a compression test. It showed a weak cylinder and from the flutter of the gauge, he was pretty sure the problem was a bad valve on that cylinder. The Blazer was still under warranty. We took it to the dealer and told them the situation. Apparently, doing compression tests is not all that common anymore. If a "technician" can't plug a vehicle into a computer and get a diagnosis, they are often at a loss and go no further, or take wild stabs at things that are outside the realm of what the computer diagnostics look at. Compression tests are quite basic, but in this day and age, few mechanics do them. I told the dealer's service manager that there was a weak cylinder, which cylinder it was, and left it at that. I got a phone call: bad valve confirmed when they pulled the head. The Blazer engine had overhead cams, variable valve timing, and was a complex cylinder head. I expected the dealer to tell me there would be a core exchange and they'd be putting on a remanufactured head. Instead, I was told the heads are "non rebuildable" and the head went into the scrap dumpster, a new head went onto the Blazer.... which we traded a year later against a Toyota Camry.

The old days of rebuilding engines in local shops, other than for performance work or for something like an antique or classic car, is pretty well done with. When I was a young fellow in the 60's, if a person's car engine topped 100,000 miles without having to be pulled down and rebuilt, this was something to brag about. Now, car engines running for around 200,000 miles is not uncommon. Repairing of parts like alternators or waterpumps or starters just is not done in the local garages as it once was, nor are there the specialty rebuilding shops (ignition/electric shops, carburetor shops, automotive machine shops) the way there used to be. The new engines are built to much tighter tolerances than a local rebuild shop could hope to maintain with the old style rebuild machine tools. The reliability and service life of the new generations of engines has pretty much wiped out the need for this sort of shop.
 
One thought might be as a donation to one of the old car museums and claim it as a charitable donation - like the Model A one up in Michigan. That said, you would have to be able to back up the value you claim if audited. I'm no CPA and did not sleep at a Holiday Inn last night, so consider that with my left field advice. At least it might save the machine and have you Dad's name on it.

Dale
 
How big is this grinder? Any pictures?
While I have no need for a piston grinder, at least right now, I do have room at my 1930's era machine shop ie; old machine tool rest home.
Hate to see something like this get scrapped.

Marshall
 
Same here- if it were local...

The Kwikway H series piston turning and grinding machine is a husky little machine tool on its own cast iron pedestal. Shipping alone from Missouri to Rhode Island or NY is the deal breaker. My buddy does restorations of antique and classic cars, rebuilds the engines including boring of cylinders, and works on anything and everything from Model T'a and A's to Rolls Royces, as well as tractors, industrial engines... He has quite a collection of oldtime automotive rebuilding machinery, much of which he still uses. He actually planes cylinder heads on a ca 1919 planer, even doing modern high end car heads from Mercedes and BMW's. The old planer saw little use over its life, so is a nice tight machine. With a broad nose tool, it produces a flatness on heads that is better than what the local automotive machine shops can deliver.

I am sure that if that piston turning and grinding machine were in close reach, he'd be on it.

Truth to tell, when he does need a piston for something old or odd, he orders it from Egge or some other firms. The days of getting piston blanks are likely long past. I remember years ago, the old Marquette Auto Parts machine shop in Marquette, Michigan had a complete automotive machine shop. It went back long enough to have a babbitting bench and line boring machine for boring babbitted bearings on old auto and industrial engines. There were two other interesting machines. One was a "piston grinder" which "cam ground" the piston skirts. "Cam grinding" produced a geometry that was not a true cylinder at ambient temperature. This was to allow for the uneven expansion of the heavier areas at the wrist pin bosses, vs the thinner areas of the skirt. As the piston reached operating temperature, the differences in outer diameter done by the cam grinding would cause the piston to expand so it was a true cylinder. I believe the manufacturer of the piston "cam grinder" was "tobin Arp". There was another little machine for knurling piston skirts. This was a simple machine, using compressed air to press a set of knurls against the piston, which was supported on a set of rollers. The piston was manually turned through a partial revolution to put knurling on the areas of the skirt at 90 degrees to the wrist pin bosses. These areas saw the side thrust loads from the wrist pin and connecting rod. The story was this machine saw a lot of use during WWII when auto parts were non-existent for civilian vehicles, so rebuilding or coaxing more life out of worn parts was the name of the game. After WWII, the piston knurler saw use with hot rodders, who liked to loosen the clearances in an engine and knurl the pistons to hold oil. The other use was also to coax more life out of worn pistons. People nursing along some old beater of a vehicle, or having a woods truck or old tractor would be the main customers for this kind of work in later years.

The shop had an ancient Reed & Prentice geared head lathe which had come out of a steam locomotive roundhouse. This was used for refacing flywheels as well as roughing down piston blanks and making valve guides. There was a van Norman crankshaft grinder, made to take the straight-8 crankshafts from the 20's and 30's, and there was a van Norman boring bar for boring cylinders, along with a variety of Sunnen hones.

By comparison, a few years back, my wife's Chevy Blazer had a "check engine" light that would not clear. No codes came up on the computer diagnostic tests. A few mechanics advanced various theories, all of which had expensive- and not guaranteed- repairs. We took the Blazer to an oldtime mechanic with a shop behind his house. This guy was said to be the best troubleshooter and diagnostician in our area. He did a compression test. It showed a weak cylinder and from the flutter of the gauge, he was pretty sure the problem was a bad valve on that cylinder. The Blazer was still under warranty. We took it to the dealer and told them the situation. Apparently, doing compression tests is not all that common anymore. If a "technician" can't plug a vehicle into a computer and get a diagnosis, they are often at a loss and go no further, or take wild stabs at things that are outside the realm of what the computer diagnostics look at. Compression tests are quite basic, but in this day and age, few mechanics do them. I told the dealer's service manager that there was a weak cylinder, which cylinder it was, and left it at that. I got a phone call: bad valve confirmed when they pulled the head. The Blazer engine had overhead cams, variable valve timing, and was a complex cylinder head. I expected the dealer to tell me there would be a core exchange and they'd be putting on a remanufactured head. Instead, I was told the heads are "non rebuildable" and the head went into the scrap dumpster, a new head went onto the Blazer.... which we traded a year later against a Toyota Camry.

The old days of rebuilding engines in local shops, other than for performance work or for something like an antique or classic car, is pretty well done with. When I was a young fellow in the 60's, if a person's car engine topped 100,000 miles without having to be pulled down and rebuilt, this was something to brag about. Now, car engines running for around 200,000 miles is not uncommon. Repairing of parts like alternators or waterpumps or starters just is not done in the local garages as it once was, nor are there the specialty rebuilding shops (ignition/electric shops, carburetor shops, automotive machine shops) the way there used to be. The new engines are built to much tighter tolerances than a local rebuild shop could hope to maintain with the old style rebuild machine tools. The reliability and service life of the new generations of engines has pretty much wiped out the need for this sort of shop.

A Chevy Blazer with overhead cams and variable valve timing? Complex cylinder head?
Not a chance in hell. Chevy Blazer engines are overhead valve pushrod engines. The only "variable" valve timing they had is when the timing chain is worn out as there is no chain tensioner. The cylinder head is about as simple as it can be, nothing there except valves and springs, straight out of 1955. The first gauge the old time mechanic would have connected is a manifold vacuum gauge. this gauge will spot a bad inlet valve straight away, it will flutter with regularity with a bad valve. The compression gauge will then be used to find the weak cylinder. Compression testers have a check valve and will hold the maximum pressure, if it flutters it is broken. Chevy would just replace the head for the repair as time is money, it's cheaper to slap a new head on it and send it out the door
 
Same here- if it were local...


The old days of rebuilding engines in local shops, other than for performance work or for something like an antique or classic car, is pretty well done with. When I was a young fellow in the 60's, if a person's car engine topped 100,000 miles without having to be pulled down and rebuilt, this was something to brag about. Now, car engines running for around 200,000 miles is not uncommon. Repairing of parts like alternators or waterpumps or starters just is not done in the local garages as it once was, nor are there the specialty rebuilding shops (ignition/electric shops, carburetor shops, automotive machine shops) the way there used to be. The new engines are built to much tighter tolerances than a local rebuild shop could hope to maintain with the old style rebuild machine tools. The reliability and service life of the new generations of engines has pretty much wiped out the need for this sort of shop.

Isn't that the truth Joe, my old Quickway boring bar now sets in my office, decoration if you will, I have little need for it, but cannot bring myself to part with it just yet. I have a couple of modern Chevys, both in excess of 100,000. My 5.3 liter Suburban has 230,000+ miles on it, runs like a Roger Smith watch and does not use any oil, which is still clean at change time. Most of the old 350 Chevys would be worn out like you say at 80,000 miles, the oil would be black shortly after a change. I rebuilt a bunch of them back in the days when I worked at an automotive machine shop. It did not seem to matter what brand of engine, The insides of the valve covers would be full of sludge and crap burnt oil from leaking valve guides etc... especially if it did not see regular maint. Sometimes you would have to chisel the solidified burnt oil/carbon like deposits out from around the valve springs.How the ever ran at all in that state was a wonder some days.

Cheers,
Warren
 
I doubt it has the capacity to "cam grind" a piston, most pistons (today)are cam ground, not perfectly round. The thrust faces are slightly tighter than the sides where the keepers for the wrist pins are located

However, it would be a shame to not save it............Seems like it could still serve a purpose in the restoration field.
 
Actually, I think that is exactly what it does do. Cam grinding of pistons came in fairly late... in the late 20s or early 30s. Now everyone expects that pistons are made that way but in the early days they were round.
 
Last edited:
Moonlight Machine:

This was a Chevy Blazer II (I think the designation), built somewhere around 2009. It has a straight 6 engine, and was the "new" series of Blazer- a small SUV.

We did own a 1996 Chevy Tahoe with the Vortec 350 in it. That vehicle's engine was going strong at over 250,000 miles, but the a lot of the rest of the vehicle was failing and rusting. We traded it against a new Chevy Blazer in something like 2006, and within a year or so, the dealer offered us a favorable trade-in against another new little Blazer. It was that second Blazer which had the valve failure. This was not one of the "original" Chevy Blazers which were built around the 350 V-8.

The Chevy Tahoe, with the Vortec 350 V-8 used to get around 21 MPG on the highway, on cruise control. The little Blazer with the smaller 6 cylinder engine got worse mileage, though a more advanced (and more complicated) engine and hauling less weight around. Go figure.
Joe Michaels
 
I have a 1925 Van Norman piston lathe and grinder. It is designed to turn pistons to size and then grind them oval as mentioned with a cam attachment. So this is 90 year old technology at least.
However, I have rebuilt it as a cylindrical grinder (by removing the piston specific bits - the turning bits were already missing). Scraping the ways and replacing the lead screw nut has made that a brilliant and very rigid machine capable of cylindrical and taper grinding. I use it a lot for very tight tolerance work.
Don't let it go into scrap!
 
I would add pics if there was an attachment option. My Father just passed away. He was a machinist. He built all the cars in the Kansas City Antique Car Club. We had a parts store. He repaired all the vehicles for TWA. If he could not find a part he would make it. I have to get rid of all of this. Can you direct me to some antique location to donate. There is a cabinet of little drawers full of parts and a Shop Smith Lathe with all of its accessories. I am trying to sell this house.

Thank you for all your responses. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Zeebraa14
I would put it on ebay. I too had one and sold it on there quite easily. While I don't recall the price it fetched, I do however, remember I was pleasantly surprised.
I suppose if you do not have the ability to properly prepare if for safe shipping, that might be a problem. It all depends on how badly someone wants it.
If you run an ebay ad, just be up front about the possible shipping logistics and encourage them to contact you first.

Sorry about your dad's passing!
Gus
 
Moonlight Machine:

I stand corrected on the matter of a "Chevy Blazer". Must be one of those "senior moments" for me... wife reminded me the vehicle was a Chevy "Trailblazer". I am dating myself by mentioning the Chevy Blazer, which, as you correctly state, was a vehicle built on full sized pickup components.
 
I have a 1933 Van Norman piston grinder. It does have the cam grind feature for pistons. I can't give the thing away.
-Doozer
 
I have one of those machines, and it is one of the most-used machines in the shop...I've made thousands of dollars using it. The trick is to convert it into a small cylindrical grinder by grinding/cutting the work spindle down to a standard size, threading it and mounting a small 4" 4-jaw chuck...gives about 6" between centers...robust as hell, repeats well, accurate small parts grinding a cinch.
 








 
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