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Lincoln 250 amp motor generator welder For Sale, in VA

Grigg

Hot Rolled
Joined
Jun 25, 2007
Location
Lexington, VA
My old stick welder, I have not used it in a while now after picking up a new Milller TIG/stick machine and could use the space.
$250
It comes without any cables or cords but with the two adapters shown if you can use them (I interchanged the same cables with my Miller).
It is setup to run on 3 phase 220V, and has a 7.5HP motor. I have been running it off of a phase converter without any trouble.

It's a reasonably old machine but a good one, can turn it down and weld sheet metal with a 1/6" electrode, also puts out the amps for larger stuff. I found it real easy to strike an arc and had no trouble teaching myself how to weld some 12 or 13 years ago.

Easy to load in your truck with forklift, it is heavy though. (Would be a shame to scrap it but it should have reasonable value just in the copper.)

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I'd much prefer to sell it in person.

It'd be no trouble to put it on a pallet and if the driver can call me ahead I can leave work, meet the truck and load it, I do have a forklift. Or load it after 5:00 is no trouble. However I can't take off work half a day and wait for a truckdriver to wander by, he'd have to be timely.
It'd be troublesome for me to take it to a freight terminal, not any real close.

Grigg
 
This welder has sold and now resides near Rochester, NY.

Thanks,
Grigg

Good to hear! They were legends in their day.

Out of curiosity, WHICH "Miller" did you replace it with, and how do you like it after a coupla years worth of use, now?

My modest 'Dayton' 280 A AC is looong overdue for a replacement.

Bill
 
I have a Miller Dynasty 200DX primarily for TIG and it also stick welds beautifully. The duty cycle however is not good enough for burning rod after rod like the old Lincoln would do, though plenty good for small jobs and repairs.

I've had the Miller for 10 or more years now and like it a lot. Also have the same machine at work for 8 years now and it too has given no trouble.
For each I passed on the expensive clunky Miller foot control and went with one from SSC TIG Welding Foot Pedals - SSC Controls they're simple, tough, and very reliable.

More recently got a Miller 252 wire welder, so far so good with it though not a lot of use yet. It is nice to be able to just point and shoot and stick stuff together real quick.

Not sure what to recommend for a stick only welder... except for the old Lincoln as above, nothing wrong with them.
 
I have a Miller Dynasty 200DX primarily for TIG and it also stick welds beautifully. The duty cycle however is not good enough for burning rod after rod like the old Lincoln would do, though plenty good for small jobs and repairs.

I've had the Miller for 10 or more years now and like it a lot. Also have the same machine at work for 8 years now and it too has given no trouble.
For each I passed on the expensive clunky Miller foot control and went with one from SSC TIG Welding Foot Pedals - SSC Controls they're simple, tough, and very reliable.

More recently got a Miller 252 wire welder, so far so good with it though not a lot of use yet. It is nice to be able to just point and shoot and stick stuff together real quick.

Not sure what to recommend for a stick only welder... except for the old Lincoln as above, nothing wrong with them.

Thanks, and no, 'stick only' I no longer want.

TiG I've never used, but was (at one time...) a fair hand with gas welding, so a stick / TiG rig for occasional light / medium use is all I can justify.

"Small jobs and repairs" - non-critical ones, usually - are exactly what I need. I figure the cheap Chinese buzz-boxes more risk than reward, so, yah.. Miller or don't BOTHER.

'Serious' welding I am not too proud to take to someone trained, experienced, certificated, even.

I just don't need it often enough to try to become he. Not even by a little bit.

I also don't work with Aluminium hardly atall, and have NO desire to weld on it, so that helps.

:)

Thanks,

Bill
 
Seems Miller may have moved on form the Dynasty 200 to fancier/bigger Dynasty machines and some smaller/cheaper diversion models. Looks like they all do Aluminum now.
I hadn't looked in a while. I'd again get something above the harry homeowner model.
 
That welder brings back a lot of memories for me. We called that model of welder a variety of nicknames: "Lincoln Upright"; "Vacuum Cleaner" (after the upright vacuums of the 20's which had the motor sitting on top of the blower housing, such as the vintage Hoovers); or, "Coffee Grinder".

In 1972, when I first got out of engineering school, I went to work on powerplant construction project sites. Back in those days, we were running a lot of carbon steel pipe, outdoors, all stick welded. Some of the pipe was run up on supports above ground, some was run underground. We did nearly all the welding with Lincoln motor generator sets. The reason for this was to avoid having to bring an Operating Engineer on site to start and service engine driven machines. Instead, since we had electricians on site, we had a temporary feeder run with standup temporary power panels. We are talking about a few miles of pipe, but someone in the home office sharpened a pencil and said it was less costly to use the MG sets vs engine driven. Here and there, in some really remote areas of the site, we did use the old Lincoln SA 200 welders (these had the Continental Red Seal engines).

We used the Lincoln upright machines like the one in this thread along with what we called the "Lincoln Bombs"- the horizontal MG welders which were usually 300 amp machines- interchangeably. Some of the pipe was 12", and got "chill rings" (backing rings with spacer pins to insure the weld root gap was correct), and was 100 % radiography on the welds. We had no "rejectable indications" or even cause for suspicion of anything on any of the X-Ray films of the welds.

We kept those machines outdoors, and at most, had the concrete form carpenters build a lean-to to keep the rain off them. The pipefitters worked in temporary shelters when bad weather moved in. We worked into winter with those machines outdoors. The trick was never to shut down the AC power to them, and just keep the MG set spinning 24/7. The reason for this was it kept the windings warm, and kept the mice out.

I was fresh out of engineering school, and truth be known, greener than new grass with a whole world of things to learn about the real practice of engineering. I had tried striking an arc here and there, and had been taught to oxyacetylene weld when I was a kid. I had O/A welded, brazed and silver-brazed plenty on jobs as a machinist. Beyond that, and some theory, I knew nothing more of the practical sides of pipefitting, ironwork, field boilermakers' work, and any other kind of welding in general. Since the bulk of my responsibility was to field design and oversee the installation of the piping, I was thrown in with the pipefitters for the most part. The pipefitter general foreman was a kindly man, and his son was just my age- starting as an apprentice on the job. The pipefitter GF took me under his wing, as did his crew. They taught me a great deal and got me started in my profession as much as anyone ever did.

I was fascinated by the whole process of welding, let alone open root pipe joints (on the non-X ray welds), and the simple welds on things like pipe supports which I had field designed from structural steel. The Pipefitters told tall tales of jobs at coffee time, probably for my benefit. It was not long until one of the pipefitters, who was "double lengthing" two "single random lengths" of 12" pipe on roller stands, got an extra shield and said I could look over his shoulder. That was the start of it. In nothing flat, they had found a spare Lincoln MG set, some scrap steel and gotten me a welding jacket and gloves. The pipefitters got me started welding. It was with a Lincoln upright MG set much like the one in this thread. The pipefitters were good teachers, and they soon had me running E 7018 uphill vertical, and running out of position welds. Ironworkers, boilermakers, and millwrights all taught me some of their work, and more of welding along the way. I learned to run the "red flux" Lincoln 5P, or E 6010. While it does not give so pretty a bead as E 7018, it is great for root passes on open root welds, for poor fitups and welding on rusty scrap or repair jobs. I learned to "keyhole" with the E 6010, and to run it in all positions. All we had were the Lincoln MG welders. If the rod seemed to be running a little hot, rather than stop and go tweak the fine adjustment on the machine, I was taught to adjust my arc size, angle and travel speed.

I have to laugh about it all these years later. As Certified Welding Inspector, I've tested and qualified many welders and kept their qualifications current by checking their welding "in process" on jobs. The younger welders would never have made it back when I started. They are used to the modern inverter machines with digital displays and all sorts of internal automatic controls. If a weld is not running quite right for them, they are up and back to the machine tweaking by a matter of 2 or 3 amps. The insist on having a fancier auto darkening shield than the next guy, being more concerned with the graphics on the shield than whether the shield is a good fit and has a good auto darkening filter. When these younger people would start in blaming the machine or their shield for their own problems with running a weld for me, I'd take my own shield and take the stinger and run some to show them. Then, I'd tell them about how things were when I came into the industry. I'd tell them about pipefitters and ironworkers or boilermakers in places where they were on their backs welding overhead in a tight spot, and no one handy to run and tweak the adjustments on their machines, so they ran with what the machine was putting out- and the welds passed X Ray.

Sorry to ramble on. I can hear the sound of those old Lincoln MG sets in my mind as I write this. I had a funny episode years ago with a 300 amp Hobart MG welder. Same principal as the Lincoln upright. I was engineer and construction super on a hydroelectric construction site on the NY City Watersheds at Kensico Reservoir down in Westchester County. The millwrights were busy on my jobsite, when a mechanic from NYC Watersheds came in. He explained they had torn a bucket on a tractor loader and wondered if someone was available on my site to do a welded repair. I explained the millwrights were all working on erecting hydroelectric units, and we only had one welder on the job. The mechanic said they had a welding machine and oxyacetylene torch, and asked if anyone could come to their building to do the repair. I said I could shake loose from my work and would help them out.

I went over to the NYC Watershed's building, and they had their 300 amp Hobart welder. We got a rosebud (heating tip) on their torch, a couple of heavy sledge hammers (aka "beaters"), a large monkey wrench (for hot bending the crumpled steel of the bucket), and some electrode. We hot straightened the damaged steel of the bucket and ground out the torn weld seam. I fired up the Hobart welder to start welding as we straightened and refitted the seam on the bucket. The welder went nuts, moaning and squealing like an old vacuum tube radio and not holding any kind of arc. I checked polarity, and was OK there. I checked my electrode (E 7018), so was OK there was well. Good ground (American Welding Society now insists it be called "work clamp" since welding can be either DC electrode positive or DC electrode negative, so that clamp is not always a true "ground".). One of the watershed mechanics said electricians had been working on the power panels in that building, and funny thing was some pumps were not delivering and other motors were all turning in the wrong direction. OK, now we knew the problem. I had them isolate the power panel at a service breaker, and we then took the front off that panel and swapped two of the phases feeding that panel. Restarted the welder and it sounded normal and happy again. Struck and arc and welded with no problem. It was the only time I had ever encountered a motor generator welder that was running in the wrong direction. It did not seem to harm the welder any, but it did not reverse its polarity or do anything other than cause it not to be able to start and maintain an arc.

The Lincoln Upright welder in this thread has 3 phase input current, so be careful about checking rotation when you first wire it up. Take the "hat" off the top of the generator and verify rotation by "bumping" the on/off switch.

The Lincoln upright was a good little machine. As I like to say: it has "plenty of copper". It can survive a kid learning to weld and sticking the electrode to the work and fighting to get it unstuck (we used to call that a "magnetic welding rod" as it stuck fast to the work). As I developed my welding skills, I came to realize that the old MG sets were forgiving machines, simple, and with reasonable maintenance, would never fail to give a good stable arc. On other jobs, we used those same machines with TIG torches for what is known as "scratch start TIG"- and this was on nuclear powerplant work. It was my introduction to GTAW or TIG welding. No footpedal/high frequency start, just scratch the tungsten and go. I saw miles of very fine stainless pipe welds run by pipefitters using the Lincoln MG machines and scratch start TIG. No bells, whistles, or footpedal control.

Last year, I saw an old Lincoln machine for sale locally. We needed a portable engine driven welder on our railroad, and I was getting tired of loading/unloading my own Lincoln engine driven machine from my pickup, let alone putting the hours on it. The machine is a Lincoln 225 amp engine driven "Lincwelder". It has an Onan 16 HP gasoline engine driving the same generator end as the upright machine. I jumped on that machine and bought it for the railroad. I gave 400 bucks for the machine, and another 300 bucks for 200 feet of 00 and 0 sized welding lead with Tweco connectors. The Lincoln welder had not run in years, and had come out of a stone quarry/crusher plant. No batteries in it at the time I bought it, no gasoline in the tank, dead of winter. I turned the machine over by hand to be sure the engine was not seized, checked the oil and bought the machine.

With fresh batteries (had to modify the battery boxes as the original "Corvair" style batteries are extremely expensive), fresh gasoline, and little else, the old welder fired up. I ran the serial number on a Lincoln website, and the machine is built in 1967. It burned rod and maintained a stable arc with no problem. I did have to take apart and clean the automatic idler as it was sticking, and did have to tinker with the carburetor as it probably has a load of crud in it. I've burned well over 50 lbs of rod with that old Lincoln this past summer, repairing the frame on a railroad flat car and adding handrail posts for passenger service. I've used it on a number of other jobs as well. The engine is clearly tired, so when I strike the arc, I have to "play the arc" a little for maybe an eye blink of time to allow the engine to catch up. Come the cold weather, I will rebuild the Onan engine.

I jumped on that Lincoln welder as it has nothing too much in it to go bad. No electronics beyond diodes for the battery charging circuit. No bells and whistles, just a basic machine. Same as the upright Lincoln in this thread, if you want to change polarity for welding, swap lead connections. The Lincoln upright is a small and handy machine. It is small enough that it was not the kind of machine that could be overworked or abused. The bigger Lincoln engine driven or MG welders were often used for running carbon arc gouging. This is probably the roughest service a welding power supply can see. For many years, long after rectifier type welding power supplies and even into the era of the inverter type welding power supplies, people kept the old MG units just for arc gouging.
The upright, being only 225 amps, is too light for arc gouging, so was generally a shop machine and used on finer work. As I said, I've seen these machines running TIG torches with no problem- as long as you are welding stainless or carbon steel and can live with scratch start DC TIG. I think you will be quite happy with the Lincoln upright. I am old school, and a great believer in basic stick welding as the most universal and most forgiving welding process. We still use it like no tomorrow for pipe welding and pressure vessel work as well as field boiler repairs and lots more. I've seen crafts burn 50 lbs of electrode in an 8 hour work day with those upright machines, day in and day out, and those machines stood up to that kind of heavy service. It's a fine old machine, for sure, and I am glad to see someone will put one to good use instead of out to pasture.
 
I retired as a Millwright in a Paper Mill. While working there a contractor left one of those Lincoln Uprights behind. After a year passed the Mill called the contractor and asked him to pick the welder up. He told them to just throw it away. I got a pass from the Mill and took it home leads and all. Best welder I've ever owned. I checked on the Lincoln website to verify year made it was the last year they made them 1980 something. After using it I would never pass on owning one of these fine machines. I've seen many a modern machine that are nothing but money pits and don't perform as well.
 
I'm back after spending another 5 hours welding on the railroad's flat car. I used the old Lincoln "Lincwelder" 225 amp machine with the Onan engine. It has the same generator end as the Lincoln upright. I burned a load of E 6010 and E 7018. Mostly vertical welds. The carburetor main jet adjustment seems to be holding, and the engine pulls load nicely when I strike an arc. I welded on old structural steel, given a quick slick off with an angle grinder. I kept thinking how simple and good a machine these old Lincoln generator type welders are. Lincoln has a nice feature on these older machines, and it allows a person to get either a soft arc or a "snappy arc". The soft arc is mainly used for flat welds with high deposition electrodes. The "snappy arc" is more of a penetrating arc or "digging arc" and is used more for out-of-position welds. While there is no actual nomenclature on the controls of these old Lincoln generator type welders, the way the arc is controlled is as follows:

-for a soft arc, set the "range" control to the current range which would be a bit below the amperage needed for the electrode size/type you will be running.
Then, turn the "fine adjustment" knob to add amperage to the minimum on the range (coarse) adjustment. Example: if you were running 1/8" diameter E 7018, you'd want a softer arc. The rule of thumb is 1 amp of welding current for each thousandth of an inch of electrode diameter, so 0.125" would correspond to about 125 amps. Of course, position the weld is being run, and thickness of the work, whether it is root pass or cover pass all determine the actual heat needed. And, no two people are likely to run quite the same way with the same rod and same machine.
To get 125 amps with a soft arc, set the range control to 100 amps, then move the fine adjust knob up towards 5 or a little more. This will give a soft arc and will have higher arc voltage.

-for a digging arc, such as you'd run with a "fast freeze" electrode such as E 6010, or would need if you were running vertical or overhead welds, a lower arc voltage is needed/ This is gotten by setting the current control to the 150 amp range, and setting the fine adjustment knob somewhere below "5".

Lincoln had some nice subtle features on these older machines. What they achieved without having any fancy controls or any nomenclature on the control panel of the generator machines is an "arc force" control. Knowing how to make it happen with these oldtime machines is a good thing to know.

For most welding, the softer arc is preferable. The easy way to remember this is: Lower Setting on the current range knob, higher setting on the fine adjustment knob.

I enjoy using this feature when I am running vertical welds with E 7018 or overhead welds. E 7018 is a "fill freeze" type electrode and is a fairly high deposition electrode as well. Running out of position with the soft arc, with enough heat to maintain a good arc and run the 7018, the tendency is for the puddle to "fall out", and for the arc to extinguish itself fairly often. Going to the "digging arc", running E 7018 out of position is not a problem. I was running fillets with 1/8" E 7018 today, vertical and some overhead. I was welding square structural tube to frame channels on the flatcar. Square structural steel tube has a pretty good sized corner radius, and the result is known as a "flaring bevel" weld. The corner radius on the tube creates a narrow and deep "valley". Burning the root pass in is what it's about. A soft arc will tend to flash to the sides of the flare-bevel, while a digging arc will be more pinpoint and get to the root or bottom of the "valley". I'd burn in the roots with 1/8" E 6010, then run a cover pass, weaving 1/8" E 7018. No problem with it falling out, and no arc popping out.

Amazing that a simple old machine would have these features, but I had to hear about it from oldtimers. They used to tell me the Lincoln generator type welding machines had "arc force control". I'd look at the control panel and see nothing to that effect. Some of the newer rectifier or inverter machines do have a dedicated arc force control on them, but no such thing exists on these old Lincoln welders. By knowing how to set the coarse and fine adjustment knobs, you can get the kind of arc you need for the job. A little more to it than just setting the heat and striking an arc. More stuff in every imaginable application was built using these old generator type welding power supplies than people could begin to imagine. A skilled welder using one of these old generator power supplies would turn out some of the finest welds, even when running "scratch start" TIG. I'd see some of the pipefitters take an empty plastic pop bottle and cut the bottom out and widen the neck opening. They would make an insulating sleeve, and shove the end of the lead for their TIG torch thru the neck of the pop bottle. They would then connect the lug to argon (shielding gas), and "bug on" by clamping the connecting lug on the TIG torch lead in the jaws of the electrode holder. With that, they were set for scratch start TIG. We all used the old style welding shields which meant you took a quick glance at where you were going to strike your arc and got your electrode tip fairly close to it. You then flipped your shield down and in the same quick motion, struck your arc and started welding. I'll admit to being spoiled by a good "Speedglass" auto darkening shield.

It was only when I became a welding inspector that I was given a Speedglass shield. I liked it so much that I got one for home. I've caught too many flashes over the years and for welding out of position or where you are doing fine work and can't have any stray arc strikes, the auto darkening shield is nice to have.

My own fear with a lot of the new inverter welding machines is they become obsolete very quickly. A local fellow is noted for working on electronics, and he is the go-to guy when one of the newer generations of welders craps out. This fellow is able to trouble shoot the electronics and unsolders components from PC boards and does the repairs. The local welding supply stores send the old machines to this fellow as OEM support on some of the electronics is not always there.

I would not pass up a good modern inverter welding power supply with high frequency start as I keep getting asked when and if I will be TIG'ing aluminum. I keep flip-flopping between Lincoln, who builds transformer/rectifier type machines with the high frequency feature, or Miller, who has an excellent reputation for their inverter machines. We had almost 100 % "blue paint" (Miller's factory color) at the powerplant, and the machines seemed bulletproof. At home, it is the "red paint" (Lincoln) as I have the two gasoline driven Lincoln machines. I suppose I will join the modern welding age with an inverter power supply and foot pedal control for TIG, but I am a diehard as far as the old generator type welding machines for field work, and a diehard fanatic about stick welding whenever possible. A lot of the older crafts who came up with stick welding refer to MIG as "monkey welding". As for me, I took some training in FCAW and GFCAW. The welding engineer who was giving me the training had me looking over his shoulder, then had me try running GFCAW. His initial chant was "Pull the gun back", and he said stick welders habitually tend to feed the gun in as they instinctively would when a stick electrode burns down. Once I got past that part, I started running GFCAW. The welding engineer's remark was "Son of a Bitch- you CAN weld !". I was an engineer, management, and not expected to know how to use the "tools". The welding engineer asked me to run a set of test plates in the 1 G (flat position) with a back strap. I ran the plates and he said they looked good enough to pass a bend test. He then asked me to tack up a set of test plates for the 3 G (vertical) position and run the weld on them. I did, and he said it was probably good enough to pass the bend test, but run another set. He cut the coupons and bent them. I passed in the 3 G position, so he had me practice the 4 G (overhead) welding, then had me run a set of plates. I passed that as well. We laughed about it, as I came for training, not to be qualified as a welder. Nevertheless, the welding engineer handed me my paperwork. He and I both agreed that any of the semi-automatic wire-feed process are generally a much easier proposition than stick welding. We also agreed that MIG is the most overused and mis-used welding process on the planet. Around powerplants and on locomotive boiler work, the preferred process is almost always stick welding. It's a good welding process to be proficient in, and one of the simplest and most tolerant of bad conditions (wind, dirty metal, bad fitups, out of position welds, to name a few things). Add a simple generator type power supply with no bells, whistles, or electronics and a person is well set to handle a lot of jobs ranging from fabrication using new materials to repairs or "repurposing junk". At the powerplant we required anyone welding to be qualified to our in-house weld procedures under ASME, and if a person was going to weld, they started with qualifications for stick welding and progressed to the other processes. I have no idea how many welders I tested and how many coupons I bent testing those welders before I retired. Now, in retirement, I am burning rod more for fun to help out or tourist railroad, and am my own worst critic.
 
Welder

Hi All,

I am the someone that bought Grigg's welder. When I used to farm it, I had a SA 200 welder which I used a lot. It was always a pleasure to weld with. When I moved off the farm the welder along with the rest of the farm machinery had to go. I have been watching MG welders for awhile now. A couple have come up for sale in my area, but the sellers had no way to run it and weren't sure if they worked. I wanted a machine that I could use and not another project. So I have been watching Grigg's for a while. So even though it was a ways away. I thought it was worth it for a machine that was in good working condition. Grigg made it 2 hours closer by letting me pick it up at the Truck show around Winchester Va which I am grateful for.

I am running the welder on a 7.5 rpc. It has no problems starting it or running it. I also wasn't sure my self if it would do it but it does. Grigg was quite sure that it would which made me feel better.

Joe,
Please tell more about tig welding with my MG welder. I am guessing that you just need to have a valve on your torch to turn the gas on and off?
I would try the scratch start. Is that all there is to it or am I missing something.

Thanks again Grigg and Joe great post.

Dave Vincent
 
I have the big brother of this machine at work, free to a good home. Downside is that it is 440V-only. It's the horizontal SA300 version. I don't want to run it on my converter and step up transformer, and it is terribly redundant, as I have a big Hobart 300amp engine welder and my Hobart Tigwave 250 that is a fantastic stick welder. They were going to throw it in the scrap dumpster, but everybody knows I love old machinery, so they asked me if I wanted it. I just stuck it in a corner kind of out of the way.
 
the motor and the generator are on a common shaft, but share no electrical connection

If the extra taps into the windings can't be dug out to run it on 220, the motor could be taken off and it driven with a flat belt on the rotor where the motor was.
 
Well since Joe steered this thread off course!! Another vote for the old Lincoln MG welding machines and 5P rod. I worked at the Cat dealer in NH back in the early 90's and we had a SAE 600 (maybe) Motor drive. This thing was huge, would burn 3/8 carbons (air arc electrodes) with out grunting or getting hot and weighed several hundred pounds. it was a CC-CV unit and I used it to weld many things together with dual shield wire, but to stick weld with this thing was a dream. Joe mentioned Lincoln 5P E6010 and it's virtues for welding poor fit up or burning through crap to get a sound bead. Nothing seems to weld 5p like an old DC genny. My Miller big blue 400 or XMP304 inverter does not run a 5P nearly as smooth.
 
I have an identical machine,made by Lincoln in Australia.They are quite noisy due to the high rotation speed,the horizontal bullets SA200 and SA300 were much quieter,but also larger for much the same output.Regards John.
 
The Lincoln upright MG welding machines had a particular sound to them, almost a howl or whine. Aside from resembling an upright Hoover vacuum of the '20's, the howl of a Lincoln upright welder and the sound of an old 1920's Hoover were in the same league. Back "in the day", designers and builders of equipment gave little or no thought to how noisy it would be, or other "idiot proofing". The Lincoln welder driven by the Onan engine has open, unprotected terminals for the welding lead connections. To work the ignition switch to turn the engine off, you reach close by the hot (and unprotected) exhaust pipe on one cylinder. The machine has a key switch, with the key in a weatherproof enclosure with a flip-up lid. Whether this was a Lincoln factory option, or something done at the quarry plant to prevent unauthorized use is unknown to me. Either way, that key switch is in a bad spot. Of course, wearing a leather welding coat and welding gloves protects me from the exhaust pipe, but with heavy welding gloves, and only the end of the key exposed, it is a little tricky to turn the engine off. No safety stickers, no warnings, and no design for the safety of the operator/user. The Onan engine can be rope started, so the rope start pulley with its slots for the starting rope spins right out in the open. This was true on so many smaller engines on lawn mowers and much else. Now, this sort of open rope start pulley would be prohibited by safety codes and a litigator's dream if new equipment had it. The old Lincoln machines were basic, and assumed a person knew to get away from them if they were noisy, and knew enough not to touch the open terminals.

I use the old 5P rod quite a lot. In this day and age, a lot of people shy away from it. At our local welding supply not so long ago, they had a welding truck in for "service and repair". It was a nearly new truck with a nearly-new Lincoln "Classic" on it. Diesel driven machine, no less. Hardly had any time on it. I asked what the problem was. The fellows in the welding supply told me: the welding truck was brand new, owned by a local utility company. The "welders" for that utility had a WPS (weld procedure statement) requiring running root passes on pipe welds with 5 P, open root welds. Pretty standard weld procedure. The "welders" claimed the new Lincoln welder on that truck "could not run 5P". I said it was a DC generator type machine and the best thing ever for running 5P. I said if they'd loan me a shield and a pair of gloves, I'd run 5 P in any position to show that machine had nothing wrong with it. The welding supply guys laughed and said they'd already done just that. We looked at each other and said: "It's the younger generation... candy asses who want the bells and whistles and aren't real welders... want a 'pretty bead' and expect it to just happen..." The local welding supply said they'd charge the utility for their time to "check" the welder, but knew the problem was not the machine but the people using it. The local welding supply refers people to me when they need a Certified Welding Inspector, and we have a nice relationship. I joke that it is my "candy store" or "toy store", and it as much a social visit aside from needing to purchase supplies or get my tanks exchanged.
 
Now y'all have me kind of wishing I hadn't sold the thing... That's OK though, I knew years ago it was a good machine, I'm just not in the welding business and have increasingly limited space.

Sure enjoying reading about them and the stories from Joe and others.

Grigg
 
These upright bullets were last in the Lincoln sales catalog in the mid 80s in Oz,and were very expensive,like $6000 A ,if I remember rightly.They were also painted red in line with all other 80s Lincoln products.Lincoln were a great company to deal with,they would give you all sorts of old manuals free,but made up for it in the spares prices.Regards John.
 








 
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