Linley jig borer.. Add drill press style handle? - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Froneck, my Rockwell and Alexander toolmaster are both trammed to be with in 3 tenths,and are frequently checked. I do use Albrecht keyless chucks for the most part when drilling. I understand your referring to the position of the spindle on the table. I feel like my dro is a little more accurate then .005. It reads to an accuracy of 2/10. Now how accurate that really is I'm not sure.

    I never drill a finished hole, I drill undersized then ream to final size, after heat treat I use a brass barrel lap to open the holes up to an exact fit. I have found this method to work well for me.

    And to the above comment on me using hardware store Mic's and calipers....never. My micrometers are mitutoyo as well as my calipers..you may not believe that I hold the tolerance that I say,but I do.for example, I will surface grind a blade to .1875 and then I turn the bushings on my lorch and schaublin lathes.the bushing is required to be. 0006 larger then blade thickness so when I tighten the pivot screws as tight as I can, my blades will still swing freely, yet have close to zero lateral movement. This prevents the blades from ever coming into contact with the insides of the handle.

    I'd be happy to share photos of my procedure when I begin from the start. Until then I'm I'll show some knives.

    Cheers

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

  2. #22
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    Hey termite, if you know someone That can freehand Hollow grind the way I do.let them know that they're welcome to make $300 per blade beside me, because I can't keep up with the demand.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

  3. #23
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    More?

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  4. #24
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    So...... marketing ploy, is it then?

    1) Ask a silly-stupid question

    2) Argue with a cumulative several hundred years of real-world experience as to the functional distinctions between and among drillpresses, mills, and jig bores...

    3) Once a crowd has been drawn..."reluctantly" show priddy-pitchers.

    All to justify an insanely over-priced item many among us are happy enough to buy from Leatherman, Gerber, USG, or their MANY imitators for... small change, relatively?

    How good is the file on your one? Or the saw or screwdrivers?

    You think it resembles a "combat" knife?

    Dream-on! And stay a great deal more than just "arm's length" away from a US Marine and K-bar, straight-leg or airborne infantryman with any flavour of bayonet ever mass-produced on-the-cheap, or any Asian with a Tanto knife. Or, God forbid - a Kukri.


  5. #25
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    sir, I am not looking for clients, I have not taken new orders in a very long time. Nore will I. But I'm glad you feel you know everything about me.

    Do a search for balibalistic , I think you'll find decent feedback. Or better yet,get a life!

    It's a shame, for every 3 or you ignorant pricks,there's one good guy in there. Only reason I come back.



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  6. #26
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    Ignore Thermite. All he does is troll and complain. He has chased off more than one new newcomer.

    Better yet, use that little triangle icon and report his bad behavior.

  7. #27
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    I don't have a Linley jig bore, although I've seen a few. As with the OP's none of them had a downfeed handle.

    I do, however, have a Vernon jig bore - which is about as close to the Linley as you can get without actually being a Linley. My Vernon - and I believe all of the Vernon models - has a quick downfeed handle in addition to the downfeed handwheel. The handle works on a rack on the back of the quill, and a knob is used to engage either the handle or the handwheel.

    So if the OP wants to add a quick downfeed handle, I say have at it. It won't be easy, though. Milling a rack into the quill and making a handle assembly with pinion will be a piece of cake. Machining the headstock casting to take the handle and pinion will be a bit more difficult, assuming that there is room to do so. Coming up with the mechanism to engage just one of the downfeeds at a time may be a lot harder.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnMartin View Post
    I don't have a Linley jig bore, although I've seen a few. As with the OP's none of them had a downfeed handle.

    I do, however, have a Vernon jig bore - which is about as close to the Linley as you can get without actually being a Linley. My Vernon - and I believe all of the Vernon models - has a quick downfeed handle in addition to the downfeed handwheel. The handle works on a rack on the back of the quill, and a knob is used to engage either the handle or the handwheel.

    So if the OP wants to add a quick downfeed handle, I say have at it. It won't be easy, though. Milling a rack into the quill and making a handle assembly with pinion will be a piece of cake. Machining the headstock casting to take the handle and pinion will be a bit more difficult, assuming that there is room to do so. Coming up with the mechanism to engage just one of the downfeeds at a time may be a lot harder.
    Probably the least work of all would be to couple an electrical drive to the existing down feed at the hub - OEM wheel left in place - then "drive it" with a joystick or such.

    Thrust power could utilize more than one "pre-set" for different drills and operations. Torque thing. Dial-in what each op needs.

    "Automated?" Not in keeping with the "hand made" philosophy, is it?


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