What's new
What's new

Looking for Bulk Carburetor Cleaner

Frank R

Stainless
Joined
Dec 18, 2009
Location
Dearborn, Michigan
I bought a Sure Shot powder coated steel sprayer in order to save money on buying individual spray cans. I have used it with Brakleen solvent, which does an okay job.

What I would really like is to put carburetor cleaner in it so it will act more like the Gumout Carb and Choke Cleaner I buy.

I have found quite a few products. What I don't want is the carb cleaner meant to use in ultrasonic cleaner tanks. I have also seen the old Gumout and Chem-Dip gallon cans with their own dipping baskets. I don't think this is the same chemical used in the spray cans.

Is what I am looking for available in gallon cans? Or has it been regulated out of existence?
 
I bought a Sure Shot powder coated steel sprayer in order to save money on buying individual spray cans. I have used it with Brakleen solvent, which does an okay job.

What I would really like is to put carburetor cleaner in it so it will act more like the Gumout Carb and Choke Cleaner I buy.

I have found quite a few products. What I don't want is the carb cleaner meant to use in ultrasonic cleaner tanks. I have also seen the old Gumout and Chem-Dip gallon cans with their own dipping baskets. I don't think this is the same chemical used in the spray cans.

Is what I am looking for available in gallon cans? Or has it been regulated out of existence?

.
many cleaners are either flammable or chlorinated so not so flammable but can be more poisoness or are considered ozone destroyers
.
used to use a tapping fluid that evaporated fast. one day worker passed out from breathing too many fumes. also some stuff not good for your liver. it might not cause health effects immediately noticeable like asbestos causes long term health problems
 
Tetrachloroethylene/Perchloroethylene is a heavy solvent with a low evaporating point used in dry cleaning machines. They run like a sealed closed cycle vapour cleaning machine to prevent worker exposure and reduce liver cancer risk. If it gets on the ground it can sink into the water table and contaminate water supplies.

If you were to build a similar unit you'd need a modified airconditioner unit to distill the dirty solvent with the hot side and then clean the parts with the cooled condensed vapours.
 
I bought a Sure Shot powder coated steel sprayer in order to save money on buying individual spray cans. I have used it with Brakleen solvent, which does an okay job.

What I would really like is to put carburetor cleaner in it so it will act more like the Gumout Carb and Choke Cleaner I buy.

I have found quite a few products. What I don't want is the carb cleaner meant to use in ultrasonic cleaner tanks. I have also seen the old Gumout and Chem-Dip gallon cans with their own dipping baskets. I don't think this is the same chemical used in the spray cans.

Is what I am looking for available in gallon cans? Or has it been regulated out of existence?

If it hasn't been regulated out or "wised-up common-sensed out" it SHOULD be.

Take it from a member of a massive generation - or several generations - who are slowly, and not always graciously, DYING OFF from a lifetime of truly dreadful abuse of truly dangerous volatiles we were ignorant and/or cavalier about the effects of;

You really do not want to be spraying ANY of this s**t about as volatile aerosols!

Acquire or build a proper and safe "closed" system,.

Or switch-over to less hazardous gels or liquids that can be more cheaply controlled.
 
Ok I'm probably going to catch some flak for this but I have a suggestion for something that's fairly cheap, readily available, and fairly non-toxic. I read about it on a motorcycle board I'm on and thought the guy was pulling my leg. I had a carb bank sit for a while with fuel in the system (yeah I know....) and I had to do a rather thorough clean out of jets and vacuum circuits. I could NOT get all of the green slime out of the float bowl. I have a modest collection of solvents, removers, and implements of destruction to use. None of them worked completely that would satisfy the OCD flavored part of me. As a last resort I tried what I thought sounded crazy, Pine-Sol. Yep, it came out clean as a whistle (we'll ignore the fresh lemony scent for the moment). I tried it again on an old Troy-bilt roto tiller some goof had put varnish remover in to clean the carb. It also came out clean as the dickens. I would advise only mixing this up 50-50 as one of the float bowl drain caps (zinc die-cast crap) started leaving a silvery smear on my fingers, which means it's somewhat dissolving it. Didn't happen with the carb bodies though so it's all about the zinc die cast mix. Do the 50-50 mix, submerge the parts, and check it every 2-3 hours, rub your finger on the surface to see if it leaves a silver smear or not. It doesn't seem to affect brass jets or ferrous metal needles but I wouldn't chance letting it contact rubber. I do jets/needles in a separate container. I don't know if the bargain brands works as well, for the price I just get the name brand because I know it works. Wash everything off in warm/hot water and blow dry. It's worked on every motorcycle(4) and car(2) carb I have well enough that I don't bother looking to replace the dunk can from Berryman. I'd be interested in hearing from anybody that uses it whether good or bad. Try it, for $1 how can you go wrong?
 
Tetrachloroethylene/Perchloroethylene is a heavy solvent with a low evaporating point used in dry cleaning machines. They run like a sealed closed cycle vapour cleaning machine to prevent worker exposure and reduce liver cancer risk. If it gets on the ground it can sink into the water table and contaminate water supplies.

If you were to build a similar unit you'd need a modified airconditioner unit to distill the dirty solvent with the hot side and then clean the parts with the cooled condensed vapours.

A friend in the environmental remediation business once told me to never let my kids work in a dry cleaners because of the solvents used. I've seen where they soil from under the cleaners has been hauled to a special lined land fill in Michigan. Even the truck drivers told me that if it's too windy they can't dump and must wear full PPE before unloading.
 
yeah, read about vapor degreasers. They work great but have a horrible environmental legacy because they rely on low boiling point solvents like dry cleaning fluid. Super interesting machines, but at what cost?
 
No disrespect to the OP, but what type of cleaning would require spraying the amounts of carburetor cleaner he is wanting to use ? We live in an enlightened age where the toxicity and other hazards of various substances are well known. As Thermite points out, plenty of people in our generation (baby boomers) or the previous generation (the "greatest generation") are dying from the effects of various solvents and substances once used without a second thought. Why go out of one's way to expose one's self to toxic solvents by way of airborne mists, aside from by direct contact with the skin ?

I've found that for cleaning out old gummed-up carburetors, a small dip basket/can works fine. I work outdoors and wear nitrile gloves and try to keep the wind at my back. If I am spraying solvents as from aerosol cans, I wear a full face respirator which makes a good seal with my face, and with appropriate cartridges.

When cleaning a carburetor's outer areas or adjacent parts of the engine or other gunked-up equipment, I put down some a steel catch pan or some cardboard under it. I then use contaminated gasoline (drained from tanks of motorcycles or other equipment which may have had dirt or water or simply sat in the tanks too long). I put it on with a paint brush and scrub or scrape at the gunk. The gasoline plus the dissolved gunk winds up in the catch pan or on the cardboard. When I am satisfied I have gotten the dirt and all else loosened up, I use Zep "Purple" (I think it is called, comes in a blue jug). It is a water soluble detergent, and contains some caustic. It will strip paint and will start to etch into aluminum or die cast alloy parts, so I brush it on and hose it off with a garden hose, then blow dry with compressed air.

Another product I found which worked well for degreasing as well as being able to cut into some forms of "varnish" was "Citrisolv" or something like it. A few years back, the Citrus based detergents seemed a lot stronger than what is available now.

I try to avoid the use of solvents, and use auto brake cleaner in small doses from aerosol cans, if at all. Loading up a "Sure Shot" sprayer with a pint or more of carb cleaner sounds like a recipe for future health issues. I work on a variety of equipment, some of which is varnished-up or coated with a mixture of dirt and engine oil and similar. I also work on carburetors for motorcycles and an occasional tractor or welder engine. Truth to tell, I never found the need to blast away with carb cleaner. A can with the small dipping basket works fine for carb parts. Having worked in a powerplant for many years, we were given various training about hazmat, and the health hazards associated with various solvents. Unfortunately, some of my co-workers have died from cancers (liver and pancreas), and were quite young and in good physical shape until the onset of the cancers. I attribute their developing these cancers to their exposure to various solvents in the workplace. One fellow was a toolmaker at a manufacturing plant before he came to the powerplant. He died quite young of cancer, and the word was that the plant he'd worked in previously had used PCB-containing coolants on their precision grinders and production machine tools. Another lady was an electrician, younger than I am. She was hale and hearty and in excellent physical shape. She was a few months from retirement when she developed cancer of the liver and pancreas and was dead shortly after. The electricians used LOTS of spray contact cleaner, and often would clean their clothing with it- often while still wearing the clothing. It was common for people who had gotten carbon black from generator brushes or grease on themselves and their clothing to spritz on the contact cleaner and then wipe their skin and clothing with shop wipes.
Other people would be working inside electrical switchgear or generator housings on the big hydroelectric units. They would be using cases of contact cleaner and shop wipes to clean off oil mist mixed with carbon dust from the brushes, or to clean inside the switchgear. Even wearing imprevious gloves and with good ventilation, people still ran the risk of absorbing the solvents thru their skin or by breathing in the airborne vapors. Over the years, this sort of thing was phased out, and "green" solvents are now used, but the damage was done. People will bitch that the "green" solvents are nowhere near as effective at cleaning and degreasing as the old stuff, but hopefully, will remain healthier.

Read the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) on the carb cleaner. It will list the known health hazards, and I am sure it will be listed as a carcinogen, aside from causing respiratory problems and skin irritation for the short term. Why put your health at risk ?
 
Ok I'm probably going to catch some flak for this but I have a suggestion for something that's fairly cheap, readily available, and fairly non-toxic. I read about it on a motorcycle board I'm on and thought the guy was pulling my leg. I had a carb bank sit for a while with fuel in the system (yeah I know....) and I had to do a rather thorough clean out of jets and vacuum circuits. I could NOT get all of the green slime out of the float bowl. I have a modest collection of solvents, removers, and implements of destruction to use. None of them worked completely that would satisfy the OCD flavored part of me. As a last resort I tried what I thought sounded crazy, Pine-Sol. Yep, it came out clean as a whistle (we'll ignore the fresh lemony scent for the moment). I tried it again on an old Troy-bilt roto tiller some goof had put varnish remover in to clean the carb. It also came out clean as the dickens. I would advise only mixing this up 50-50 as one of the float bowl drain caps (zinc die-cast crap) started leaving a silvery smear on my fingers, which means it's somewhat dissolving it. Didn't happen with the carb bodies though so it's all about the zinc die cast mix. Do the 50-50 mix, submerge the parts, and check it every 2-3 hours, rub your finger on the surface to see if it leaves a silver smear or not. It doesn't seem to affect brass jets or ferrous metal needles but I wouldn't chance letting it contact rubber. I do jets/needles in a separate container. I don't know if the bargain brands works as well, for the price I just get the name brand because I know it works. Wash everything off in warm/hot water and blow dry. It's worked on every motorcycle(4) and car(2) carb I have well enough that I don't bother looking to replace the dunk can from Berryman. I'd be interested in hearing from anybody that uses it whether good or bad. Try it, for $1 how can you go wrong?

I've used Pine Sol for degreasing. It works pretty well, especially when heated. As I recall, the primary active ingredient is alcohol.

Andy
 
No disrespect to the OP, but what type of cleaning would require spraying the amounts of carburetor cleaner he is wanting to use ? We live in an enlightened age where the toxicity and other hazards of various substances are well known. As Thermite points out, plenty of people in our generation (baby boomers) or the previous generation (the "greatest generation") are dying from the effects of various solvents and substances once used without a second thought. Why go out of one's way to expose one's self to toxic solvents by way of airborne mists, aside from by direct contact with the skin ?

I've found that for cleaning out old gummed-up carburetors, a small dip basket/can works fine. I work outdoors and wear nitrile gloves and try to keep the wind at my back. If I am spraying solvents as from aerosol cans, I wear a full face respirator which makes a good seal with my face, and with appropriate cartridges.

When cleaning a carburetor's outer areas or adjacent parts of the engine or other gunked-up equipment, I put down some a steel catch pan or some cardboard under it. I then use contaminated gasoline (drained from tanks of motorcycles or other equipment which may have had dirt or water or simply sat in the tanks too long). I put it on with a paint brush and scrub or scrape at the gunk. The gasoline plus the dissolved gunk winds up in the catch pan or on the cardboard. When I am satisfied I have gotten the dirt and all else loosened up, I use Zep "Purple" (I think it is called, comes in a blue jug). It is a water soluble detergent, and contains some caustic. It will strip paint and will start to etch into aluminum or die cast alloy parts, so I brush it on and hose it off with a garden hose, then blow dry with compressed air.

Another product I found which worked well for degreasing as well as being able to cut into some forms of "varnish" was "Citrisolv" or something like it. A few years back, the Citrus based detergents seemed a lot stronger than what is available now.

I try to avoid the use of solvents, and use auto brake cleaner in small doses from aerosol cans, if at all. Loading up a "Sure Shot" sprayer with a pint or more of carb cleaner sounds like a recipe for future health issues. I work on a variety of equipment, some of which is varnished-up or coated with a mixture of dirt and engine oil and similar. I also work on carburetors for motorcycles and an occasional tractor or welder engine. Truth to tell, I never found the need to blast away with carb cleaner. A can with the small dipping basket works fine for carb parts. Having worked in a powerplant for many years, we were given various training about hazmat, and the health hazards associated with various solvents. Unfortunately, some of my co-workers have died from cancers (liver and pancreas), and were quite young and in good physical shape until the onset of the cancers. I attribute their developing these cancers to their exposure to various solvents in the workplace. One fellow was a toolmaker at a manufacturing plant before he came to the powerplant. He died quite young of cancer, and the word was that the plant he'd worked in previously had used PCB-containing coolants on their precision grinders and production machine tools. Another lady was an electrician, younger than I am. She was hale and hearty and in excellent physical shape. She was a few months from retirement when she developed cancer of the liver and pancreas and was dead shortly after. The electricians used LOTS of spray contact cleaner, and often would clean their clothing with it- often while still wearing the clothing. It was common for people who had gotten carbon black from generator brushes or grease on themselves and their clothing to spritz on the contact cleaner and then wipe their skin and clothing with shop wipes.
Other people would be working inside electrical switchgear or generator housings on the big hydroelectric units. They would be using cases of contact cleaner and shop wipes to clean off oil mist mixed with carbon dust from the brushes, or to clean inside the switchgear. Even wearing imprevious gloves and with good ventilation, people still ran the risk of absorbing the solvents thru their skin or by breathing in the airborne vapors. Over the years, this sort of thing was phased out, and "green" solvents are now used, but the damage was done. People will bitch that the "green" solvents are nowhere near as effective at cleaning and degreasing as the old stuff, but hopefully, will remain healthier.

Read the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) on the carb cleaner. It will list the known health hazards, and I am sure it will be listed as a carcinogen, aside from causing respiratory problems and skin irritation for the short term. Why put your health at risk ?

Geewiz, is your real title "safety Sally"? You do realize they sell carb cleaner in aerosol cans at the auto parts stores, you can buy it buy the case, no ID or legal waivers required! I get what the OP wants to do because I do it myself using acetone, a spritz here and there is not going to kill you, and if your stupid enough to huff it, well good riddance. Pine Sol and water, you got to be kidding, if I want something degreased I also want it dry.
 
Saftey Sally’

If Joe safety Sally then I am his sister...and I am the Bitch...
That junk in a can is cancer in a can. It is way over use cause it handy and easy and people are lazy. I have good luck with simple green to get the heaven stuff off and with the proper PPE mimm break clean. I like my Sure Shot use it quite a bit but with Stoddard solvent and a fase mask.Carb cleaner in that don’t think that be a good idea we use 5o gets 5 gallon can of stoddard solvent on a work order but it’s hard to fly to a remote site and it can be hard to get rid of the waste so-a case of break clean alot or guys use If that’s all I got I use it but with a mask and gloves. And I do pack hat PPE with no exception Us old guy been paying in to SS a long time and I want to collect at least some of it...
 
Geewiz, is your real title "safety Sally"? You do realize they sell carb cleaner in aerosol cans at the auto parts stores, you can buy it buy the case, no ID or legal waivers required! I get what the OP wants to do because I do it myself using acetone, a spritz here and there is not going to kill you, and if your stupid enough to huff it, well good riddance. Pine Sol and water, you got to be kidding, if I want something degreased I also want it dry.

Don't knock Pine-Sol until you've tried it. I cleaned an entire Logan lathe using it straight and heated. It did a good job and, because it was heated, the parts dried quickly.

It doesn't make a good long-term parts washer fluid, because the alcohol that's in it eventually evaporates out, leaving a sludgy mess.

If the OP would tell us what he was wanting to degrease, it would be helpful.

Andy
 
Dalmatiangirl:

I am hardly "Safety Sally". I made thus far to 68 years of age, and I started working as a kid at a time when little was made known of the dangers of various substances. I worked briefly in one plant, doing some maintenance work. They had a large vat of trichlorethylene solvent that metal stampings were dunked into on a conveyor line prior to getting dunked in a vat of hot enamel. I worked under the trichlor tank on some maintenance work. After 2 weeks in that hell hole, I quit. I worked in machine shops in the 1960's where all manner of flood coolant was used. I would clean up at day's end, change clothes, and get on the NYC Subways to go home. As I perspired (not A/C on the subways back then), it seemed like the coolant was leaching out of my skin. As a young engineer on powerplant jobs, we walked the open steel- no fall protection. I used to ride the "overhaul ball" on the whip lines of the cranes to get up and down from the high steel of powerplant boiler houses. No hearing protection either. As I got into startup and erecting work, I'd listen with a flashlight or screwdriver as a stethescope against bearing housings and gearcases. The result is a case of tinnitus with a significant hearing loss.

It was in those years that a statistic was used as a kind of metric on heavy construction projects: for every so many millions of dollars spent on the project, one jobsite fatality could be expected. I saw one 19 year old boilermaker apprentice come crashing down off the high steel, landing near where I was walking, and start dying before my eyes. Today's fall protection gear would have saved his life. I was on jobs where men were killed and the siren would blow and we'd all walk out the gate - no working after a fatality for the rest of the day it occurred.

I used to go into what, today, would be classified as a "Confined Space, Permit Required" with no lifeline, no air monitoring, and do inspections or supervise a crew. Even after we got into using extraction equipment (harness plus lifeline on a retrieval winch), and into using air monitoring equipment (on the older hydro turbines, the decomposition of zebra mussels produced a combination of hydrogen sulfide, ammonia, and methane, and the air itself was often low in oxygen content), I'd always be first in ahead of the crew. Water up to my crotch (wearing waders) from leaks in the big bulkhead gates, walls squirming with zebra mussels, down 30 feet of ladder rungs in what amounted to a 36" diameter access way... I'd get on a Motorola walky-talky and direct the crew to dump coal cinders against the upstream faces of the bulkhead gates to seal off the leakage. When the leaks were pretty well sealed off, I'd give the word to enter. I was always "first in" ahead of the crew, as a matter of principal. I'd hand my wallet to one mechanic, and the usual joking about the moths in it seeing daylight were made. I'd tell them if anything happened to me, split the money and give the credit cards and license to my wife. I'd take out my Hamilton railroad pocket watch and give it to another mechanic who remains a bro of mine into retirment- telling him to hold it for me and give it to my son if anything happened to me. More joking followed, but the crew would clip on my lifeline and I'd have three air monitoring devices hanging off me along with the Motorola radio, harness, and all else and first have to cram myself into the manway and start the climb down. Even the ladder rungs were alive with zebra mussels when we'd open the older hydro turbines. Mussels would be crunching as I stepped on the ladder rungs, and it was some slippery.

The scream of large air grinders, the racket of air chipping guns, grinding dust, weld smoke, smoke from arc gouging... it all took a toll on me over the past 45 years.

In 1976 on a powerplant job, I was exposed to boiler flue gas on a coal fired plant where we were modifying the flue gas ducting. I had a common cold at the time. A little bit of flue gas and I had a case of industrial pneumonia- unable to catch my breath and coughing up blood by that evening. I believe it compromised my lungs to some extent. Add exposure to lube oil mists during hydro turbine thrust bearing work, along with weld smoke as a Certified Welding Inspector (aside from my own welding), and a cold used to turn into bronchitis almost every time. Plenty of fresh air and doing Pilates to expand and open my chest has- thankfully- made a new man out of me.

I could go on, but suffice it to say that seeing people I worked with die young from cancers and having other occupational illnesses. Call me "Safety Sally", but I want to live in reasonable health to old age. My grandmother made it to 102 in her own apartment to the end, Mom died last November at 100 and was driving into her 99th year and using her computer to within a couple of weeks of her death. Dad, on the other hand, developed cancer of the prostate at age 67 and went out hard with cancer metastasized thru his bones at age 70. I get regular checkups, take precautions, and do the best I can to take care of myself.

You can call me "safety Sally" but I know what the cumulative effects of various jobsite or working conditions can do to a person. We only get one body and it is often impossible to repair or reverse damage done to it. When we are young, let alone the times I lived and worked in being a lot different back then, we tend to dismiss the ideas of safety precautions. Read the "fine print" on a can of carb cleaner or brake parts cleaner. The stuff is highly toxic. A point to also remember is that brake parts cleaner and contact cleaner (and probably a few more commonly-used products) have the ability to produce phosgene gas when TIG welding is done around them. Even the residue from these products, when used to clean and degrease work, will produce phosgene gas when TIG welding is done on those surfaces. People have been disabled for life as a result of this, "on the tank" (oxygen) and chronic emphysema or COPD, nervous system damage, kidneys compromised...

Another example was the night I met two deer while riding home from the plant on my Harley. I was wearing steel cap work shoes, Vanson leather chaps and a Langlitz leather jacket and good gloves. People used to kid me about the leathers. I missed the first deer clean, but the second deer hooked around and I had her head and neck very nearly in my face. She apparently tee boned the Hog and set me into a violent broadslide. I knew the Hog was going to lay down, and actually knew I'd be safe since I was not violently tumbling or ejected off the bike. Sure enough the Hog did lay down and I slid with it on the pavement for what seemed a long while. I realized the Hog was following the crown of the road and would soon wedge under the guide rail, so separated myself from it. I then slid on the pavement like a guy sliding into home plate. I kept my head up and when I stopped sliding, checked myself for injuries and found none. I got up off the pavement and hefted the Harley out and up from where it had come to rest along the guide rail. I had no road rash, very minor bruising and one small bone broken in my left hand where the ring finger had been pushed back (leaving me with a permanent busted knuckle but 100% use of the finger). I was in to work one day later after seeing a doctor about the finger. Still riding motorcycles. My leathers looked like someone ran an angle grinder over them, and my gloves were abraded down to where the insulating material was hanging out. My steel cap boots were ground to the point the steel toe caps were ground on the pavement.

People who had ragged me about putting on chaps and a heavy leather jacket on warm days stopped their ragging after that accident. Langlitz put two new sleeves on my jacket- an old friend who had saved my own hide, which I wear to this day when riding. I attribute my coming thru that accident as well as I did to being in good physical shape and wearing good riding gear- same as safety equipment on a job. I also attribute it to some High Power who, as I told the deputy sheriff who happened along the road that night, was "steering for me". We had a young lady at the powerplant with a great pair of nice long legs. She used to ask me why I wore leathers when riding to and from the plant. One Monday she did not come into work, and by Wednesday, appeared on crutches with her legs in bandages. Seems she was packing behind her boyfriend on a motorcycle, and they were wearing light clothing when they wiped out on gravel. An ER doctor spent a good while picking that gravel and road dirt out of that girl's legs. She never said another word to me about my wearing leather when I'd ride to and from work.

My attitude and working practices come as a result of over 50 years in machine shops and powerplant construction projects and running powerplants. I paid my dues. Seen enough and experienced enough to wise up in my old age. Call me what you will, but I hope to stick around awhile and be in a reasonable enough condition to enjoy what time I have left in this life- God Willing. Never take your health for granted and try to preserve it !
 
I have a lot of undefined health problems. I am quite sure the brakecleen and carb cleaner I used in my younger years did me no good. Not to mention the welding smoke, diesel smoke, weed killer, and many other things I unknowingly exposed myself to in the last 40 years.
 
I'm wondering how on earth I've managed to live as long as I have,(I'm 64) and spent many years working with sheet lead, along with welding, spraying paints of all sorts (in less than ideal conditions) .and that's without working on crop sprayers (when OP's were all the rage) etc etc - the list goes on, ……………. and of course drinking, smoking and falling off motorbikes.
 
Joe, I'm far from young myself, but living/working in an industrial environment has never been safe, its a choice we made. I know someday something is going to kill me, but doubt it will be the solvents. If I have a machine to clean that is coated in grease, I will use a water based cleaner to remove the bulk of the filth. But at the point I need ALL traces of oil removed, I will use a solvent spray that will carry the oil off and then flash dry.

If I was worried about contact with solvents, getting sucked into a machine, or crushed by heavy equipment, I would probably be in a different line of work, yet I suspect that life would be a bit more boring.
 








 
Back
Top