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Hendey Tiebar Collets

Yoteman89

Plastic
Joined
Feb 9, 2017
Ok everyone, I have collets for my 14x6 Hendey Tiebar but no draw bar and no 1" collet which I am needing. Just curious if anyone has a 1" collet and draw bar or even just pictures of a Tiebar lathe using collets?

Thanks

Richard
 
Ok everyone, I have collets for my 14x6 Hendey Tiebar but no draw bar and no 1" collet which I am needing. Just curious if anyone has a 1" collet and draw bar or even just pictures of a Tiebar lathe using collets?

Thanks

Richard

Getting a mating thread onto a drawBAR is usually easy-peasy. So, too DIY'ing a handWHEEL closer.

A drawTUBE is harder if only because the thinnest practical wall thickness is usually on the menu.

Even so, there is a firm that sells already-threaded tubes, many diameters and threads, and in various lengths that can then simply be shortened to fit.

What thread do your present collets use?
 
No 1" (occurs in #6 set) collet offered for 14" tie bars - required 1 1/2" minimum spindle bore - found only in gear heads that were 14"

Per Hendey Bulletin 2260-L-C-C-4

Ok everyone, I have collets for my 14x6 Hendey Tiebar but no draw bar and no 1" collet which I am needing. Just curious if anyone has a 1" collet and draw bar or even just pictures of a Tiebar lathe using collets?

Thanks

Richard
 
No 1" (occurs in #6 set) collet offered for 14" tie bars - required 1 1/2" minimum spindle bore - found only in gear heads that were 14"

Per Hendey Bulletin 2260-L-C-C-4

And.. this post:

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...o-collet-size-291142-post2377034/#post2377034

.. will lead one to the .pdf.

Collets (AKA "Watch Tool Chucks") are covered page 67 - 69 if what the whole rig LOOKS like helps.

Cheap way forward to larger diameter, but not thru-bore length, may be a 3/4" or so straight-tail ER-40 holder that can be gripped in an existing 3/4" collet.

Another is a flat, round, "plate mount" ER-40 that can be gripped in a 4-J or set-tru 3-Jaw or 6-Jaw and centered manually. A flat-back 5C or 2J nose-mount-only key-cranker can be held the same way.

Unless you feel like making a permanent backplate for them to fit the Hendey's threaded spindle-nose?
 
I will have to check them but they are very fine

They are possibly also the better part of a hundred years old, and not assured to be in new condition, grip-wise? Hardinge may still be able to supply them freshly made. They seem to have the specs and stand willing to make any collet ever seen, anywhere. Just not "for free".

Might not be a BAD idea to preserve what you have, and go ahead and adapt to any of several current, high-volume "commodity" collets.
 
Not on it in the photo but my 18 X 6 (along with the new Aloris CA) also got a new Hardinge Sojgren 3J collet chuck - collets to 1 3/4, but not thru the spindle:)

Circa 1975
 

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Not on it in the photo but my 18 X 6 (along with the new Aloris CA) also got a new Hardinge Sojgren 3J collet chuck - collets to 1 3/4, but not thru the spindle:)

Circa 1975

2J Sjogrens here.

Not thru, either, given Monarch musta gone to different schools together with Henry Hendey and agreed generous spindle bores were an invitation to immoral behaviour ... or sumthin'.

Hence my "collection" of nose-closers-only so as to not give-up space for even the thinnest of drawtubes.
 
I've made two drawbars. It isn't difficult. The first one was the first time I'd cut an internal thread. I made the end of the drawbar our of a solid piece, drilling and boring and threading to get the right dimension on a piece that was easily handled. I then turned down the untreaded end about 1/8" and bored a piece of DOM tubing that allowed it to press in so that about there was a 1/8" gap showing. I then put the whole piece in my lathe, in back gears so it would turn very slowly, and brazed joint. I've had no problems with these since making them some years ago and use them nearly every day.
 
I have a box of 17 assorted size Hendey and Hardinge 3H collets. The largest is a Hendey-made step chuck with no size mark that scales 15/16" x 3/4" deep. The largest through collet is 7/8". There is a headstock tapered sleeve that looks factory. There is also a shop-made octagonal adapter that can be gripped in a big 4-jaw chuck and has a nut in the back for tightening the collet. I will sell the whole box for $150 including USA shipping in a medium flat rate box. I can figure out the taper on the adapter if anyone wants to buy the box and wants to know the taper size.

Below is an excerpt from the Hardinge 1950 collet catalog with dimensions of the Hendey collets. The 3H thread is 1.062-20. You can buy a 1-1/16-20 tap for $58.
1-1/16 - 2 Special Pitch Plug Tap, High Speed Steel

The first Hardinge lathe I bought (1977?) took 4C collets in the spindle, but had no draw bar. I made one from a solid steel bar. I drilled it through with a long drill bit, from both ends and single pointed the .945-20 thread. I made the knob from a big plastic caster wheel and added a needle thrust bearing. Looked good, and worked fine, but I only used it until I managed to get a 5C headstock.

Larry

1950 collets 1.jpg 1950 collets 2.jpg DSC01345.jpg
 
No idea what Hendey's the 6H collet sets fit.
But they do fit quite a few work heads for Cincinnati #2 T & C grinders. They were being made new by various suppliers well less than 100 years ago. Though I forget how recent that mark now seems.....:)

I have various sets (in well beat mahogany box) and loose collets, but probably not interested in disposing since as mentioned, they fit some of my tooling. Plus you have to verify collet series for your lathe, and whether, as has been pointed out, the 1" size will fit? I think 6H includes 1-1/8" through the bore, and maybe some slightly larger.

smt
 
Making a draw bar my self and started with a piece of DOM tubing with the right ID then turned od to it spindle. Still need to thread it just way down on the to do list.
 
The Hendey Tool and Gage Makers lathe uses 6H collets.
Although they cover about the same range as a 5C, they are much beefier.
 








 
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