Magneto coupling taper - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    OP didn't have a boring bar small enough to do the job. Simplest and cheapest solution is to buy a boring bar that fits.

  2. #22
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    I suggest the best way to do this is to mount the cam shaft between centers and use a dial test indicator
    to sweep the taper angle, with the indicator mounted in the toolpost - adjusting the compound angle
    so the indicator nulls along its entire range. You need to have the indicator point exactly on center
    of the shaft for this to get close.

    Once it is close then chuck up a test part and bore it. Blue the positive taper with blue sharpie marker,
    and wring the shaft into your test piece. You will see which way you need to tweak the compound
    angle to get the bearing contact better on the mated parts. Final tweak is basically a rap with a
    screwdriver handle with the compound fixing bolts pretty tight.

    At least, this is how I did the job when I was making Bosch generator taper adapter pieces. The older bikes
    had a small taper, the newer ones were the exact same taper angle, but larger in diameter. I wanted to
    fit a newer alternator rotor onto an older crank taper - so it was nothing more than an aluminum sleeve
    with the OD and ID at the same taper angle - parallel sides. Slots halfway through the length in four
    places.

  3. #23
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    I have a bunch of tapered end mills, thanks to a lucky buy at the General Electric die shop auction circa 1984. I had a need to cut a tapered hole in a collet closing nut once and found in the drawer a tapered mill exactly the right size. I chucked the mill in the tailstock of the Hardinge and ran it slowly into a drilled hole in a steel bar. The mill flutes were too hungry and grabbed at the steel, leaving a rippled surface. I think the wear in the tailstock feed nut let the mill bite in, defeating my slow turning of the feed wheel. Keep in mind that end mill flutes are not ground like reamer flutes. They are fine for milling a surface, but really bad at reaming a tapered hole.

    Larry

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by jim rozen View Post
    I suggest the best way to do this is to mount the cam shaft between centers and use a dial test indicator
    to sweep the taper angle, with the indicator mounted in the toolpost - adjusting the compound angle
    so the indicator nulls along its entire range. You need to have the indicator point exactly on center
    of the shaft for this to get close.

    Once it is close then chuck up a test part and bore it. Blue the positive taper with blue sharpie marker,
    and wring the shaft into your test piece. You will see which way you need to tweak the compound
    angle to get the bearing contact better on the mated parts. Final tweak is basically a rap with a
    screwdriver handle with the compound fixing bolts pretty tight.

    At least, this is how I did the job when I was making Bosch generator taper adapter pieces. The older bikes
    had a small taper, the newer ones were the exact same taper angle, but larger in diameter. I wanted to
    fit a newer alternator rotor onto an older crank taper - so it was nothing more than an aluminum sleeve
    with the OD and ID at the same taper angle - parallel sides. Slots halfway through the length in four
    places.
    "Best way" ???

    Left out the most important part, then, Jim.

    Price of eggs is $1.74 / dozen.

    At Walmart.

    Mind, ISTR you don't want to "go there".. how about 119 Rupaih, Lahore, Pakistan, then?


  5. #25
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    Just a couple of quick considerations.
    First, making a small boring bar is even simpler than a D=bit: you can free-hand it and the only critical part is to grind and stone a sharp edge and have enough clearance under it for the hole at the small end.
    Second, a gunsmith trick to reduce the chatter from chambering reamers that grab too much (similar issue: all cutting edges cutting full length at once) is to wrap a layer of tissue paper around the reamer, letting the edges cutting through the paper and backing off before the (now smaller) grooves are saturated with chips. Perhaps, it works for tapered end-mills too.

    Being a one off, I'd personally set the compound with a dial indicator using the shaft as reference, with the large end of the taper facing the tailstock, so that you can test-fit without taking the part off the late (apologies for sounding somehow condescending, but this is a rather common rookie's mistake).

    Paolo

  6. #26
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    Here is this again if needed

    Setting Lathe Compound For Tapers

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    WICO, (Witherbee Ignitor COmpany) as used on Wisconsin air-cooled, pumps. ag, & MIL gear were near-as-dammit bulletproof, may have made an appearance or three, "Old Wheels" era, already.

    https://oldcroak.com/wico-magneto-rx-1/
    Yup, my 2 cylinder Hobart welder with the Wisc engine has that, you can
    hear it clatter when coasting to a stop.
    Last edited by digger doug; 08-10-2019 at 06:17 PM.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by digger doug View Post
    Yup, my 2 cylinder Hobart welder with the Wisc engine has that, you can
    hear it clatter when coating to a stop.
    First one ever bit me was on one of Pennsytucky's own "Simplicity Machine" for Monkey-Wards 9 HP Wisconsin one-lung garden (alleged) "tractors".

    Smart-alec kid me decided I'd try stopping it by grabbing the sparking plug lead by the boot and yanking the lead clear of the plug. Stopped the Wisconsin sure enough. Thankfully in only about a revolution and a half.

    Not sure my 'lectrified heart and ass cudda stood another two rounds of coast-down off the thoroughly agnostic outlook on life that ole Wico held dear.

    Figured I was as good a sparking plug gap to be jumped as any other.

    Hot enough spark the Wisconsin wudda prolly run on 50% SEA water like a Lehman alleged-Diesel.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    First one ever bit me was on one of Pennsytucky's own "Simplicity Machine" for Monkey-Wards 9 HP Wisconsin one-lung garden (alleged) "tractors".

    Smart-alec kid me decided I'd try stopping it by grabbing the sparking plug lead by the boot and yanking the lead clear of the plug. Stopped the Wisconsin sure enough. Thankfully in only about a revolution and a half.

    Not sure my 'lectrified heart and ass cudda stood another two rounds of coast-down off the thoroughly agnostic outlook on life that ole Wico held dear.

    Figured I was as good a sparking plug gap to be jumped as any other.

    Hot enough spark the Wisconsin wudda prolly run on 50% SEA water like a Lehman alleged-Diesel.
    The smart kids use any handy stick nearby to pop the plug wire off....


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