Marvel Draw Cut Saw No.1

precision tools · Apr 13, 2008

I picked this little power hacksaw up at an auction last weekend. It is as the title infers, a Marvel Draw Cut Saw No. 1. Patent date is July 12, 1916.

It is complete and pretty much as original with the original lineshaft driven pulley. The drive is engaged by a dog clutch operated by the lever at the front of the vise, and tripped by the saw frame at the end of the cut. There is no device to raise the blade on the return stroke.

The blade is 12" for size reference.

I will have it for sale at my table at the NAMES show in Toledo next weekend

Maxim · Apr 14, 2008

Thats Purdy, here is a picture of mine (its off the base now, no time to use it. :bawling:

)

I don't think there is a patent date on mine though. :confused:

jvfidiam · May 25, 2018

Just bought a marvel draw cut saw # 1 and I cant wait to start using it but I cant find a blade for it. Any suggestions? Thanks

john.k · May 25, 2018

Use a cut of bandsaw blade that suits.......the holes should be drillable,but if its too hard,use the old method of dry cell carbons.

SouthBendModel34 · May 25, 2018

jvfidiam:

You wrote: "...but I cant find a blade for it. Any suggestions?"

Yes, I have a suggestion! I suggest that you tell us what size blade you are seeking, so that we may help you to locate one! Are they all 12-inch, as in Post #1, or are there different sizes? Do you want a particular tooth-per-inch ? (Must keep at least three teeth in the cut for decent results.)

Try eBay. It's like Forrest Gump's box of chocolates - you never know what you might find !

Try older industrial supply houses. Many treasures lurk on dusty shelves. In particular, I'd call Industrial Hardware in Biddeford. ME (207) 284-1731. Other possible sources are listed in a "sticky" at the top of this forum.

First hit on a Bing search: Power Hacksaw Blades - High Speed Steel - 12 to 24 inch long.

Later models of reciprocating hacksaws were popular up until about the 1950's, and many of these later models are still at work in small shops. Hence, the blades ARE obtainable.

JRR

jvfidiam · May 25, 2018

yea sorry. I forgot to mention that I was looking for a 12 inch x 1 inch x 18 tpi. I called industrial all day no answer so Ill try after the holidays. Thanks for the lead.

SouthBendModel34 · May 25, 2018

Jvfidiam,

18 tpi in a reciprocating power hacksaw? Seems very fine - what are you trying to cut and what sizes?

You may need to consider chip clearance. The gullets between fine teeth are small, so they fill up fast.

Most people here will be glad to help you if they can.

<ON EDIT:> Does it really have to be a 1" tall blade, or could a hand hacksaw blade do the job? Are you trying to gang-cut a bundle of tubing? <END EDIT:>

John Ruth

JRock1000 · Feb 17, 2019

Not sure if I should revive this thread, or start a new one,
I'm rehabbing a Marvel Draw Cut Saw #1 and it's missing the spring lift / feed arm.
Looking for some photos of it, so I have some frame of reference while I cobble something together to replace it.

The Slide / Pivot had been busted / cut, and screwed, bolted, brazed, and welded back together with a couple of pieces of angle iron.
I ground it all out and built it all back up with a bunch of cast iron rod.
Probably not much prettier than how I got it, but it feels sturdier.
Built it up so it's a little bigger than the original contours, so I can always grind / sculpt it back if I feel the need.
Can't wait to give it a try and see if she holds or busts, but I know that arm lifts it on the push cut.

Thanks!

Rudd · Feb 17, 2019

Just in any anyone needs this. It isn't posted at VM. I also have a more complete 4 meg PDF with chain drive option, parts prices, and sales literature if anyone is interested, PM me.

JRock1000 · Feb 17, 2019

That's awesome! Thanks so much.
This exploded view gives a lot more clarity of what's going on with the spring arm.
So IF I have it right, that hook sits under the oil trough, and pulls the spring "rod" on the push, slightly lifting the cut arm?
From videos I've seen, I thought the eccentric arm has an eccentric bore, and is stacked behind the cam of the cut arm, on the crankshaft assembly, but I can't see it well enough in this drawing. It looks like it sort of shoulders up and pushes against it instead?
Have to watch the videos closer for some context now.
I'm a LOT closer than I was.
Thanks!

Rudd · Feb 17, 2019

I don't have a Marvel. I'm just making a new shaft for someone that has one.
See p. 3 of the linked discussion for photos of the crank and crankshaft. Those parts are currently on my bench.
Help getting a gear off? - Old Woodworking Machines

Shorter discussion on auto-shut off device with a few photos Marvel No. 1 hacksaw overbite - Old Woodworking Machines

JRock1000 · Feb 17, 2019

The shaft for the gear is bungered up on mine too. Fretted here and there as well. Right now I'm just worried about basic functionality, I may tackle the fine tuning later. I ended up finding a bushing pusher (I think a 1/2" Black Iron pipe ended up being right) and a BIG C Clamp to push the shaft and the bushing out.
Gonna go ahead and read through that thread.
Got this for free and knew it was gonna be a project, but I kinda love these saws.
First thing I'm really rebuilding just for fun and relaxation instead of wanting it for it's capabilities and being cheap.
Thanks!

Rudd · Feb 17, 2019

besides shaft being "bungered" up, my customer was also worried about the sloppy fit in the SS bushing. I did some research, they just built these with off the shelf components - 3/4 bar, nearest size up DOM SS tube - size is still available today.
I made his shaft a little better fit in the bushing, but by the time you account for the bushing not really being exactly straight, there isn't much of a step up in size. Probably not worth the trouble.
His shaft had spun in the CI crank casting, so someone had drilled the joint between the shaft and the casting and put about a 1/4" bolt in to key it.
There wasn't hardly any interference to the fit. I gave it about .0012 and drove it home.

Spidwell · Aug 4, 2019

Marvel No 1 question from new owner

jvfidiam said:
Just bought a marvel draw cut saw # 1 and I cant wait to start using it but I cant find a blade for it. Any suggestions? Thanks

Hello, saw you posting...I just picked up a Marvel No 1 draw cut saw for restoration and would like to ask for some assistance.

Is there anyway you could send me a pic of the spring loaded adjustable tension arm that controls the rate of drop of the blade arm?

My adjusting rod had been slightly modified on the adjustment end and I do not see where/how the fixed (?) end (end toward the back of the saw) attaches to a bracket or the saw.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated !

Regards

John

Bill D · Jul 26, 2023

I bought a #1 draw saw and it has the wrong spring. The existing spring is only half as long as it should be and I think it should be stronger to give more downforce. Any one know the specs for the spring? I think car valve springs would be the right diameter but too strong.
I can tell you if the spring is backed off the arm will lift on the push stroke and go up over 10 inches into the air. Using a 14tpi blade it took 20 minutes to part off a 2" diameter steel shaft. So roughly 1.437 square inches of cut in ten minutes. I am just using regular hand hacksaw blades. I had to drill out the holes slightly. I suppose if I increase the down force too much the blades will bend and risk snapping.
BILL D

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