Mystery Hendey Lathe - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Thanks Hendeyman, I'll send you an email. A raw casting is definitly better than a stick or threaded rod.

  2. #22
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    I sent an email last night. Pretty late, Pacific Standard Time.

  3. #23
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    The mystery deepens. I have been having a terrible time finding pictures of my lathe online. Beginning to think it is rare as Robins teeth. BUT I found one with some actually good pictures that actually sold at auction 2 years ago less than 20 miles away from me. The levers are or seem to be backwards to mine. I did some measuring and either of the two levers could interchange on the different shafts. The bottom motor reverse lever and the Apron reverse lever could be the same lever I am thinking. not having original Hendey drawings though I can't be sure but these pictures show a different bottom reverse lever than mine. Their Apron reverse lever is the same as my bottom motor stop and reverse lever.
    img.jpg
    img-1.jpg

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4x4Scout View Post
    The mystery deepens. I have been having a terrible time finding pictures of my lathe online. Beginning to think it is rare as Robins teeth. BUT I found one with some actually good pictures that actually sold at auction 2 years ago less than 20 miles away from me. The levers are or seem to be backwards to mine. I did some measuring and either of the two levers could interchange on the different shafts. The bottom motor reverse lever and the Apron reverse lever could be the same lever I am thinking. not having original Hendey drawings though I can't be sure but these pictures show a different bottom reverse lever than mine. Their Apron reverse lever is the same as my bottom motor stop and reverse lever.
    img.jpg
    img-1.jpg
    My #1 looks like the one in this photo, don't have the disconnect switch mounted on the lower right side, the other electrical box mounted on the Head Stock is mounted where the disconnect is. All my handles are the same so is my micrometer carriage stop which is different than the one in your machine's photo. I have never seen one like yours on a Hendey. I got my Owners Manual from ozarktoolmanuals.com

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  6. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Froneck View Post
    My #1 looks like the one in this photo, don't have the disconnect switch mounted on the lower right side, the other electrical box mounted on the Head Stock is mounted where the disconnect is. All my handles are the same so is my micrometer carriage stop which is different than the one in your machine's photo. I have never seen one like yours on a Hendey. I got my Owners Manual from ozarktoolmanuals.com
    Can you post a picture of the front of your No 1? The apron that is. The disconnect mounted near the floor is bloody inconvenient. So you are saying your motor reverse handle is like the one in the picture or the same as the Apron reverse handle?

    Pictures of these 1-30's are so rare you should go ahead and post as many pictures as possible. I have a theory that says the 1 stands for 1 foot. Since you know they are considered 12x30 machines. lol Not sure why they would change the nomenclature like that though.
    I am still waiting on a reply from my email to Hendeyman. I would really like to give his casting a try if I can afford it.

  7. #26
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    If you have time of course.

  8. #27
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    [QUOTE=4x4Scout;3573823]Can you post a picture of the front of your No 1? The apron that is. The disconnect mounted near the floor is bloody inconvenient. So you are saying your motor reverse handle is like the one in the picture or the same as the Apron reverse handle?
    I'll make the photos But for some reason my computer does not want to talk to my camera! I did buy a new computer but been so busy I didn't connect it yet. I'll see what I can do. The motor control handle on my lathe is the same as the photos in the manuals. It's a round steel rod with a ball on the end and the lead screw reverse is a cast iron (I assume) handle the end being somewhat in the shape of the handle on the carriage hand wheel. I have 2 Reverse/Stop/Forward motor switch handles. One is mounted below the middle of the Apron and the other at the end of the rod below the front of the Head Stock. I use the one near the Head Stock the most, the other under the Apron is not convenient and I use it only when working near the end of the ways (mine being 42" version) or when drilling with the tail stock.

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  10. #28
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    There is a #1 GP on Ebay with several good photos including the apron lever arrangement. Hendy 12"Swing X 31"Between Centers Engine Lathe W/8"Self Centering Chuck | eBay

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  12. #29
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    I looked at the one on ebay and noticed they too have the handles reversed. The one with the plastic ball in the end is for feed reverse and the cast iron one is used for the Reverse/Off/Forward control.
    I double checked my machine and the owners manual. The photo in the owners manual shows the handles with the round plastic ball on the end is used for the Reverse/Off/Forward swi8tch. I assume they are similar and can be interchanged though weight might be of concern. In addition I have 3 other Hendey gear drive lathes though they do not have electrical switch to control the spindle and use a clutch mechanism the handles also have the plastic ball on the end and are in the same place.

  13. #30
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    While not a #1 here is a photo of the carriage of my former #2 GP lathe. 2gp-carriage.jpg

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  15. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peroni View Post
    There is a #1 GP on Ebay with several good photos including the apron lever arrangement. Hendy 12"Swing X 31"Between Centers Engine Lathe W/8"Self Centering Chuck | eBay
    This is like mine would be but a straight handle will not work on mine because in reverse it will hit the apron. The Ebay one is opposite Fronecks. lol just figures. I see the ebay one comes with a collet chuck. That sure would be nice though 4 grand seems a bit steep.

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    On another note I thought id put a indicator on the edge of my chuck. Noticed it had some run out so I chucked a straight rod in it. When its turning that rod is flapping around like crazy. It rolls perfect on a flat surface. So I pull the chuck off. Like a dummy it took me a bit to figure which direction to spin that huge nut. Put my indicator on the cone where the chuck mounts and there is very very little play. half a thousandth maybe? If I read the indicator gauge right. .0005 indicator and 1 or two marks.
    I looked in the back of the chuck and there was all kinds of crap back there and the coned surface is rough. Lots of metal bits smashed flat in there. I guess I can figure out that angle but my question is do they make a ream or stone that angle to clean up minor imperfections in that surface? Sorry I am not sure what the terminology is for that type of chuck or cone surface. Trying to find more information I find tons of information on Morse taper. I figured the tailstock is a MT3 and I think it needs a bit of a touche up as well. I have the drill type chuck on a mt3 taper for the tailstock and it looks like it has slipped a few times. has some grooves and burs in it. Looks like someone was a bit rough on the tools. Id think surface condition would be super important for that sort of thing. Like carefully wrap in cloth before putting away important.

  17. #33
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    So what I ended up doing was taking an old planer blade and carefully scraping the inside of the cone area on the chuck. Now the chuck itself is only .0005 to .0010? off. Still more than I would like but better than it was. Not sure about the accuracy of the chuck yet. No one knows how to true those up? Or what they are even called?

  18. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4x4Scout View Post
    ...
    Attachment 292385
    Wrong size T-nut and what is that rod sticking out there? It has some threads on one end but it just slides in and out.
    ...
    The rod looks to be the same design as my 1909 16x8 Hendey. There should be a hook under it (or a threaded hole in the saddle casting for it) that swings up and acts as a stop for the rod's thimble to hit against. The nut on top of the rod is a binder to clamp the rod at the length you want and the thimble has graduations around it to fine tune the position.

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  20. #35
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    Default Chuck has problems

    No real luck. The outside of the chuck may be fairly smooth now but the items chucked into it are way off. It seems to hold best at the back part of the jaws. I guess Ill try the 4 jaw and see if it's any better. New chucks that I am not even sure will fit are as much or more than I paid for the whole lathe.

  21. #36
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    My Owners manual lists the spindle as L1 BUT it is NOT! It's L0. Seems spindle connection above L00 is getting had to fine and those that are making it want a fortune. I was lucky the previous owner (a company) just put on a New Bison Chuck so mine runs great. Watching ebay I found a 4 jaw chuck for it. I've had some good luck with Chinese chucks. A while back Cushman was going out of business and like too many American Companies their chucks were being made in China. I assume what ever Cushman stock the Chinese had was dumped and quite a few tool suppliers had Sales, none were 4 jaw, they didn't have the Cushman name but looked like Cushmans so I purchased quite a few 3 jaw and they work great! However wanting different sizes of 4 jaw chucks I purchased one New on ebay. 3 of the Jaws were OK but the 4 was not. All the other gripping sections were OK except for the most used wide one. The surface was not square, really off by quite a bit. I had to regrind the set!
    If you check ebay there will be a few Chinese chucks cheap from time to time, better yet are a there's few Tool Dealers have then, I purchased a few and also had good luck with them. Don't get a Universal 4 Jaw Chuck! I can't figure why they are being made and the same goes with 6 Jaw chucks, their OK with precision ground stock and most guys that have them remove 3 jaws for normal use!

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