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New happy Hendey owner

geshka

Aluminum
Joined
Sep 9, 2016
Hello there.

Allow me to introduce myself and my recent find - Hendey 12X5 S/N 13712.

I am in my 50s originally from republic of Belarus, now live in Canada. Use to work in metalworking shop with lathes, mills and other stuff, then educated myself in CNC and , thus, transitioned to the computer world. Metalworking remains my first love :) .

Week ago I found this beauty in the local ad board and decided that I can't let it go to scrap.
2016-09-08 14.07.27.jpg

So I bought it and brought home (which was quite difficult). I am going to restore and use it. Lathe seems to be without any significant parts missing or being broken, though covered with grime and rust and moss.
I am hoping to have community help in disassembling, first, and then in proper assembling, tuning and use. Canadian winters- Winter is coming (c) - are not very comfortable to work outside or in the cold garage ( and basement is occupied with kids ), so I am prepared to rather slow progress will spend few seasons on this project - bear with me people.
My first question to the community - can it be looked into registrar for year, other details, and ,maybe, previous owner(s) of this S/N - 13712.

Many thanks
Gene.
 
I believe I do have original Hendey tailstock.

BTW - it is all seized and rusted and I am having difficulties disassembling it.

Disassembly of rusted parts is ALWAYS aided by electrolytic methods.

There are several references online to use of electrolytic methods for rust removal (and disassembly.) I use a car battery charger and a weak solution of lye in water. The point being is to have a "basic" chemical solution (rather than acidic, although some like acidic but may be prone to re-rusting.)

Rust occupies something like 1-1/2 times the volume of metal it came from, hence the problem with disassembly of rusted parts. But the electrolytic bath can be left for LONG periods without seriously degrading the parent metal (that which has not rusted.)

Just be aware that with any electrolytic methods, you're leaving a chemical attachment site for re-combination with atmospheric oxygen that is PERFECT. The polar chemical bonds are just "ready & waiting" for any stray oxygen to pass by so it can re-rust immediately (if not sooner [:^)] So once disassembled and the part cleaned up on a wire wheel, you have to take some step to prevent re-rusting: a layer of paint, a phosphate acid dip (leaves it "grey"), or even grease or penetrating oil.

I would imagine for a complete tailstock you might want a 30 gallon plastic trash can as your container. I use scrap pieces of 4" iron pipe as the "anode" (or whatever.) Be aware that rust conversion is sort of "line of sight" in the bath so you may have to re-arrange things to get even blackness (converted rust.)

Good luck. Looks like a project worth pursuing. Hendey was THE lathe after Putnam passed into the nether-land of Manning, Maxwell & Moore.

Joe in NH
 
Thanks Joe. I will use electrolytic de-rust for sure.

What I wanted to get some help on is - tailstock spindle is being locked by two tapered cones (green arrow on picture) which are tightened by hand with special locking handle. So would it be safe to knock bolt down, carefully ( red arrow direction ) in attempt to unlock spindle ?

2016-09-13 12.32.07.jpg

Also, I removed handwheel, cup and screw - is that something else that holding tailstock spindle ( besides rust :) )

2016-09-13 12.33.42.jpg
 

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Thanks Joe. I will use electrolytic de-rust for sure.

What I wanted to get some help on is - tailstock spindle is being locked by two tapered cones (green arrow on picture) which are tightened by hand with special locking handle. So would it be safe to knock bolt down, carefully ( red arrow direction ) in attempt to unlock spindle ?

View attachment 180363

Also, I removed handwheel, cup and screw - is that something else that holding tailstock spindle ( besides rust :) )

View attachment 180364

If I remember correctly, the bolt is threaded into the tailstock as well, so hitting the bolt will do nothing (productive anyway).
The part that is around the bolt can be knocked out (up) from inside the bore of the tailstock. Obviously use something that will not mar the piece.
If you need more details I'll try to provide them.

Also... post the measurements for your tailstock as I happen to have an extra one that I bought to snag the handle from.
 
Good find man, congrats! I'm a relatively new Hendey owner myself, also working on mine.
Good on you for taking on the job, that one looks like it's been badly neglected. I wish you luck in rectifying that regrettable situation.
 
Here are pictures of the tailstock clamp.
tailstock_clamp_pm.jpginside_tailstock_pm.jpg

Only the top half comes out, as RCPDesigns said. If the stud is threaded in, it might come out with two nuts locked together.

David.
 
Only the top half comes out, as RCPDesigns said. If the stud is threaded in, it might come out with two nuts locked together.

David.

Thanks a lot David - this is great. I unscrewed hand clamp completely and removed main bolt. Now I guess, I will be able to knock tailstock spindle from the back with hardwood dowel or aluminum rod.
 
My tailstock (18" conehead) spindle was a bear to free up/remove, as well. I took the hand clamp off too, lots of penetrating oil and tensioning the handweel/prying out.
If the spindle sticks out far enough, you could built a wood or steel clamp with brass pads to grip it, and pry or pull out on it.
In my case, there's a large chuck still stuck in the tailstock, which I pried against (not enough to hurt it, my spindle was mostly stuck in with old grease, not super bad rust.)
 
geshka:

Hendey lathe #13712, a 12x5 Cone Head model, was built during the first week of August 1912. The original owner was the Ford Motor
Company, Walkerville, Ontario, Canada. There are no longer any Patterns, Castings or Repair Parts left in inventory for this lathe,
but all of the original drawings are still in the files, so, parts can be made as required. This lathe has a Single Walled Apron.

Hendeyman
 
Sure thing!!



Right. I am hoping to release upper part by soaking it in WD-40

Rather than WD-40, use Kroil and let it work for a few days/weeks.

Contrary to WD-40, it contains chemicals that destroy rust. As the winter part of the project, you can apply periodically Kroil to screws, shafts, and anything else in need to be freed-up.

Good Luck!

Paolo
 
geshka:

Hendey lathe #13712, a 12x5 Cone Head model, was built during the first week of August 1912. The original owner was the Ford Motor
Company, Walkerville, Ontario, Canada. There are no longer any Patterns, Castings or Repair Parts left in inventory for this lathe,
but all of the original drawings are still in the files, so, parts can be made as required. This lathe has a Single Walled Apron.

Hendeyman

Thanks a lot Hendeyman. I am happy - I am owning a piece of history ;)
 
Also... post the measurements for your tailstock as I happen to have an extra one that I bought to snag the handle from.

Thanks RCPSesign. measurements are not accurate, anyway - clearance from center to the ways is 5in. Full length of the assembly 14in ( if this means anything ) Taper, I believe, Morse 3.
 








 
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