odd old gizmo and chuck

Picked up an old small "sensitive" drill press for $5, figuring I would make it into a tapping guide. It is one of the old bench pillar type, small, 18 inch or so tall, clearly from maybe 1914 or so.

Pulley on top, place for a pair of guide pulleys on rear of casting, but no bracket or pulleys. Wildest ball bearing I have ever seen for the drilling pressure. The thing looks similar to the drill setup of the "Universal Pillar Tool" from an old issue of HSM magazine, but obviously is much older than that.

Anyhow, it has a jacobs chuck on it, which is a 0-1/4 or maybe smaller, with the 1902 patent date. Assuming they didn't bother after patent ran out, that puts it at about 1920 tops.

Anyway, that chuck is in near perfect operating condition, barring a little legitimate surface rust (a film). I decided to restore the thing instead of converting it, and I am tempted to pull off the chuck and not use it (I have another, assuming it will fit).

Seemed cool that the ancient chuck was still in good order. Don't want to damage it by use, now.

This would be about equal to a Jacobs #1 chuck, but is old enough not to even have a model number on it.

Anyone know if the old jacobs chucks used the same taper mount as the newer ones?

I have a #1A which looks, without having seen either taper, like the one on the drill spindle. Nice if it would fit, (and especially if I can get both off their tapers OK, that is maybe doubtful).


[This message has been edited by J Tiers (edited 03-18-2003).]

Picked up an old small "sensitive" drill press for $5, figuring I would make it into a tapping guide. It is one of the old bench pillar type, small, 18 inch or so tall, clearly from maybe 1914 or so.

Pulley on top, place for a pair of guide pulleys on rear of casting, but no bracket or pulleys. Wildest ball bearing I have ever seen for the drilling pressure. The thing looks similar to the drill setup of the "Universal Pillar Tool" from an old issue of HSM magazine, but obviously is much older than that.

Anyhow, it has a jacobs chuck on it, which is a 0-1/4 or maybe smaller, with the 1902 patent date. Assuming they didn't bother after patent ran out, that puts it at about 1920 tops.

Anyway, that chuck is in near perfect operating condition, barring a little legitimate surface rust (a film). I decided to restore the thing instead of converting it, and I am tempted to pull off the chuck and not use it (I have another, assuming it will fit).

Seemed cool that the ancient chuck was still in good order. Don't want to damage it by use, now.

This would be about equal to a Jacobs #1 chuck, but is old enough not to even have a model number on it.

Anyone know if the old jacobs chucks used the same taper mount as the newer ones?

I have a #1A which looks, without having seen either taper, like the one on the drill spindle. Nice if it would fit, (and especially if I can get both off their tapers OK, that is maybe doubtful).


[This message has been edited by J Tiers (edited 03-18-2003).]

I have a few old drill presses with early Jacobs chucks on them.....some are tapered and I think one is threaded on so be carefull. While don't you just leave the original on there and use it carefully....you may do more damage taking it off and the replacement may not be ture to that spindle......I think some of these old machines may have had things like chuck jaws lapped in place at the factory or by a user in the past 75 or 100 years......I have a bunch of old machines and I actually prefer the old chucks....on lathes the jaws are offen thinner than the modern 2 pc ones and that is better for the fine work I do....the only chuck I have never used is a open frame 2 jaw drill chuck.....picture a jacobs chuck with it's mecanism on the outside of it's body...just a little to nasty looking to be spinning around.

I have a few old drill presses with early Jacobs chucks on them.....some are tapered and I think one is threaded on so be carefull. While don't you just leave the original on there and use it carefully....you may do more damage taking it off and the replacement may not be ture to that spindle......I think some of these old machines may have had things like chuck jaws lapped in place at the factory or by a user in the past 75 or 100 years......I have a bunch of old machines and I actually prefer the old chucks....on lathes the jaws are offen thinner than the modern 2 pc ones and that is better for the fine work I do....the only chuck I have never used is a open frame 2 jaw drill chuck.....picture a jacobs chuck with it's mecanism on the outside of it's body...just a little to nasty looking to be spinning around.

That ocurred to me, and I can't get the 1A off ITS straight arbor at the moment, so that's another problem.

But I did want to know if it is possible. I was thinking about electrolytically de-rusting the old chuck, and since I would have to remove and disassemble, it was an oppotune time to just change it.

When I get the thing cleaned up and running, I willdecide if it is a work unit for the odd very small drill, or just a nice ornament for which I have no room.

Thanks

That ocurred to me, and I can't get the 1A off ITS straight arbor at the moment, so that's another problem.

But I did want to know if it is possible. I was thinking about electrolytically de-rusting the old chuck, and since I would have to remove and disassemble, it was an oppotune time to just change it.

When I get the thing cleaned up and running, I willdecide if it is a work unit for the odd very small drill, or just a nice ornament for which I have no room.

Thanks

Is the chuck rusted inside? usally there not....so just wait till the machine runs...close the chuck so less dust gets into it and just hold some emery, steel wool or whatever to clean it up while turning.....I've allways liked to remove rust mechaniclly as opposed to chemical or electrical on old machines as it leaves a better color on the metal when done...just takes a lot more work....

Is the chuck rusted inside? usally there not....so just wait till the machine runs...close the chuck so less dust gets into it and just hold some emery, steel wool or whatever to clean it up while turning.....I've allways liked to remove rust mechaniclly as opposed to chemical or electrical on old machines as it leaves a better color on the metal when done...just takes a lot more work....

Yeah, the less it's messed with the nicer it is. I have to agree with you.

Chuck is not rusted inside, barely rusted outside, just a film. Smooth as silk, actually. Condition does not match up to the wear on the pulley bore and the bushing it runs on. I turned that end-for-end and ground it to diameter for the pulley. Problably didn't get oiled....wore about 15 thous clearance into the bushing.

I think I'll take a pass on rotating the chuck to clean it up, though. Part is knurled and then there is the key tooth area, so it would be a little grabby for steel wool etc. I may hand work on it, or maybe leave it. An old unit too "cleaned up" can be a problem too. Depends if it is a "worker" or not.

BTW, for cleanup, I like light oil and 600 grit 3M "wetordry" paper. Does not ever seem to rust after that treatment if halfway kept clean.

Yeah, the less it's messed with the nicer it is. I have to agree with you.

Chuck is not rusted inside, barely rusted outside, just a film. Smooth as silk, actually. Condition does not match up to the wear on the pulley bore and the bushing it runs on. I turned that end-for-end and ground it to diameter for the pulley. Problably didn't get oiled....wore about 15 thous clearance into the bushing.

I think I'll take a pass on rotating the chuck to clean it up, though. Part is knurled and then there is the key tooth area, so it would be a little grabby for steel wool etc. I may hand work on it, or maybe leave it. An old unit too "cleaned up" can be a problem too. Depends if it is a "worker" or not.

BTW, for cleanup, I like light oil and 600 grit 3M "wetordry" paper. Does not ever seem to rust after that treatment if halfway kept clean.