cncFireman:
It would appear from the picture of the engine that the magneto maybe a replacement. The Continental Engines that are in the pre1920s
trucks, that I own or have owned, usually use a Bosch D4 or DU4 Magneto, depending on the size of the engine. As shipped from the engine
builder, very little if any shim was required between the Magneto Bracket and the Magneto Base to center the Magneto. The 1912-1913
engines built by ALCO, used the Bosch D4 Magneto without shims.
Cranking these engines can be a bit of a chore, a handy accessory to help start the engine is to use a Bosch "A" Coil in conjunction
with the Magneto. It will require a Double Timer on the Magneto for the most convenient operation, but it can be used directly on the
No.1 Cylinder. The "A" Coil is a self contained Induction Coil with a push button operated Trimbler. When used independently of the
Magneto, it can be wired to the No.1 cylinder. The No.1 piston is brought to just over top dead center, then the Trimbler button is
pushed and the cylinder fires. It may take a few tries,but it is a lot less strenuous than cranking. The power for the "A" Coil was
originally supplied by a group of No.6 Dry Cells, but today a small storage battery does the job.
The Artillery Wheels, when in good condition are very attractive, but the cost to rebuild them, at least for my budget, is prohibitive.
Fortunately, the wheels on my 1915 Two Ton GMC were cast steel and except for new paint were ready to go. One very interesting quirk
about the Solid Rubber Tires, they can "blow out". It hasn't happened to me, but I heard about this problem from an old "hard rock"
miner that I knew that owned the Golden Rule gold mine near Dragoon, Arizona. He said that he was hauling a load of ore to be processed
at the Old Dominion in Globe, Arizona when the tire blew. Prior to the tire coming off the rim, there was the sound of a long, low whistle sound followed by a loud bang. The tire rolled off into some dry grass and started a fire. To put the tire back on the rim was
fairly easy. He jacked up the truck, and while wearing a pair of gloves, dragged the tire back to the truck and got it back on the rim.
Using wet rags, he cooled the rubber and it shrank back on the rim. After he allowed it cool for an hour or two, he was on his way. The
truck he was driving was a 1915 Moreland. I thought that it was an interesting story, but I didn't think much about it until some years later.
In the early 1980s, a friend of mine, the late Walter Haessner, a publisher of automobile and truck books, moved his business to Tucson.
One day, he arrived at my shop and asked if I would be interested in going to New Jersey to repair the heating plant in is old offices
and warehouse, he would pay all expenses. So, we loaded my tools in his old El Camino and off we went. I was about to start my third
day of repairs, when Walt came in to tell me that I wasn't working today, instead we were going out to Southampton to the long Island
Automotive Museum, owned by his old friend, Henry Austin Clark, Jr.. Walt knew that I had had several phone calls and an extensive
correspondence with Mr. Clark and that a face to face meeting would with him would be a nice break from sweating copper pipes.
After several hours at the museum, it was time for a lunch break. For lunch, Austy took use to a restaurant that formerly had been the home of Mr.Boyce of Motometer fame. During the next two hours, we discussed all things pertaining to antique trucks, including the blowing out of Solid Rubber Tires. I told Austy that I wasn't sure if it was fact or fiction, he said it was definitely fact. It happened to him when he was drive his 2 Ton ALCO back to the museum. Every thing that Matt Lee had described twenty years earlier, had happened
to Austy. Hot asphalt or high desert temperatures seem to cause the problem.
Working on pre1920 trucks can get to be a bit habit forming, not unlike old machine tools. Don't forget the joy of Acetylene Headlamps. Nice truck, enjoy the restoration.
Hendeyman