OT?-Friction Crane Boom Not Lowering - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Spent 5 minutes with it today, hung a bit more weight on the heel. 15' of 14x54, cables started to jump a little, bit still no boom down.

    Didnt have a chance to lube up the cables but that's next. May add another I beam on there as well

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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  3. #22
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    Ooooooh no. You have a bent vertical tube at the top of the heel. This what P&H, I believe, called "Tube Lite" boom. It was welded and the entire weldment was then heat treated,(probably stress relief) as a unit. Get real serious advice on that repair, maybe find an old P&H man. Around the farm, Ok. Anything for hire, have something in writing from some kind of competent person. This boom should definitely be lowering here so investigate the boom hoist rope and all sheaves. Something is giving too much resistance.

  4. #23
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    There must be something not releasing in the boom circuit.. That butt section should lower.. Are you sure the brake is opening on boom down and that the boom dog is released fully? The boom drum will rotate to boom up right?.. I would be careful adding more weight to that butt section.. If you distort it, you may never find another....Ramsay 1

  5. #24
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    Matt:

    I don't think you are likely to harm your boom base section by carefully
    adding some more weight.

    However; if the boom hoist clutch drum and shoes are not clean and shined up;
    they can drag enough to prevent the boom from lowering.

    Check the drum surface for dirt, rust, or stickyness from oil or brake fluid.

    When using these machines we often have to tighten the clutch shoe settings
    to get it to lift a heavy load. Then after the machine sets unused for weeks or
    months; we need to back off that boom hoist clutch setting to get the boom to lower.

    It is the hex link between the bottom of the two clutch shoes.

    petersen

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    One more thing:

    If you can lightly "feather" the boom hoist control WITHOUT THE BOOM RISING ;

    just sit there with engine running and shine up that clutch drum.

    That clutch drum must slip freely by those shoes for planetary lowering.

  7. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by tdmidget View Post
    Ooooooh no. You have a bent vertical tube at the top of the heel. This what P&H, I believe, called "Tube Lite" boom. It was welded and the entire weldment was then heat treated,(probably stress relief) as a unit. Get real serious advice on that repair, maybe find an old P&H man. Around the farm, Ok. Anything for hire, have something in writing from some kind of competent person. This boom should definitely be lowering here so investigate the boom hoist rope and all sheaves. Something is giving too much resistance.
    It was once my job to replace bent lacing on crane booms... I think the rule was if you had three bent in a row, you had to replace all of them..I had to grind the old one out and weld the new factory spec lacing in place.. Both of ours had tube lacing.....Had to grind the old one out carefully so as not to get into the main chord then grind a new lace to fit and sew it up with 7018.. No torches used anywhere..If the lacing was flattened, it was flattened cold... Retirement is so nice.. Cheers Ramsay 1

  8. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by petersen View Post
    Matt:

    I don't think you are likely to harm your boom base section by carefully
    adding some more weight.

    However; if the boom hoist clutch drum and shoes are not clean and shined up;
    they can drag enough to prevent the boom from lowering.

    Check the drum surface for dirt, rust, or stickyness from oil or brake fluid.

    When using these machines we often have to tighten the clutch shoe settings
    to get it to lift a heavy load. Then after the machine sets unused for weeks or
    months; we need to back off that boom hoist clutch setting to get the boom to lower.

    It is the hex link between the bottom of the two clutch shoes.

    petersen
    We use to use Fuller's earth in the frictions and brake bands...They bite when you want them to and hold but they still slip when you need it as when running a clamshell bucket....I had it in a small squirt bottle like you see in restaurants for ketchup and other things.. Kept it in the engine room.. Ramsay 1

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  10. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by ramsay1 View Post
    We use to use Fuller's earth in the frictions and brake bands...They bite when you want them to and hold but they still slip when you need it as when running a clamshell bucket....I had it in a small squirt bottle like you see in restaurants for ketchup and other things.. Kept it in the engine room.. Ramsay 1

    We did the same. If oil gets on the drum it will cook into a sticky goo that will give you fits.

  11. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by tdmidget View Post
    We did the same. If oil gets on the drum it will cook into a sticky goo that will give you fits.
    Our machines were air over mechanical so if something started leaking, it was usually a roto chamber or air cylinder...One thing we did have trouble with on the linings was dampness from diamonium phosphate fertilizer.. It would make it impossible to hold the 5 yd bucket we dug the product with... Had to take comet cleanser in the morning with water and get it out or we could not do the day's work....usually once the brake dried out, more fuller's earth was applied....Ramsay 1

  12. #30
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    When I got my current crawler crane,I looked for the simplest setup I could find.....nothing but external bands ,all worked by a self servo mechanism.......Ive had a few hairy moments ,if the drums sit for a while and get rusty ,first they grab ,then as the rust powders they slip under load until they shine up ,then all works as intended.....Ive had P&Hs and Northwests,both use brake fluid ,never again.Air controls are better,but you still have rotating seal elements.....If I was young again,I would convert to hydraulic motors,but no point for what time I have left.

  13. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by john.k View Post
    When I got my current crawler crane,I looked for the simplest setup I could find.....nothing but external bands ,all worked by a self servo mechanism.......Ive had a few hairy moments ,if the drums sit for a while and get rusty ,first they grab ,then as the rust powders they slip under load until they shine up ,then all works as intended.....Ive had P&Hs and Northwests,both use brake fluid ,never again.Air controls are better,but you still have rotating seal elements.....If I was young again,I would convert to hydraulic motors,but no point for what time I have left.
    Air over is always best as far as I am concerned.. American, Bucyrus Erie, Lima, and other air over, all you have is air that leaks.. Just fix what ever is leaking and keep on running....On the rusty drums, I once saw a link belt pull the lining off the rivets on the band on a boom brake.....Good thing the operator was good as he stopped everything before the boom fell....It was a 108 Link Belt...It was a new lining and it had seized to the drum by rust.. Cheers; Ramsay 1


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