P&W model C 16" (Square head version) spindle taper
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  1. #1
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    Default P&W model C 16" (Square head version) spindle taper

    From time to time I turn between centers. I have the newer model P&W 16" model C lathe in addition to 5 others. My latest job that between centers was needed I was able to do on another lathe but would like to get a head stock spindle center for the P&W. It's bigger than Morse #5 but smaller than #6, Large diameter nearest to the D1-6 spindle nose is 2.00". I have the owners manual but it states Morse #4 with provided adapter but does not give the size of the adapter taper. Anyone know what it is? B&S #13??

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    I never fool with the spindle center. They can be hard to knock out. I just chuck some scrap and turn a center using the compound. It has zero runout and I can use the chuck jaws to drive the lathe dog.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Froneck View Post
    From time to time I turn between centers. I have the newer model P&W 16" model C lathe in addition to 5 others. My latest job that between centers was needed I was able to do on another lathe but would like to get a head stock spindle center for the P&W. It's bigger than Morse #5 but smaller than #6, Large diameter nearest to the D1-6 spindle nose is 2.00". I have the owners manual but it states Morse #4 with provided adapter but does not give the size of the adapter taper. Anyone know what it is? B&S #13??
    Amercan Standard #200 sez ASA/ASME B5.9 Spindle Noses. The optional "big bore" taper for D1-6"

    This series is all 3/4" taper per foot on diameter

    Would be a SLEEVE that was sold with lathe, not a center. Sleeve has MT taper inside for standard same as tailstock center

    Plus one for the info in Post #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nmbmxer View Post
    I never fool with the spindle center. They can be hard to knock out. I just chuck some scrap and turn a center using the compound. It has zero runout and I can use the chuck jaws to drive the lathe dog.
    I do the same, have a few precut so point only needs trimmed to be concentric. Also have Hardened and Ground straight shank center I chuck in 4 jaw and indicate to get concentric.
    What I want is the sleeve John mentioned so I can put something like a soft Jacobs to Morse taper shank in to make a stop.
    Spindle center will also come in handy for square shafts I make, square shafting is never straight so I indicate the flats just beyond the end of the turned portion. Center drill and rough turn while in a 4 jaw chuck, reverse and do the same to the other side. Then put between centers and finish the turned ends to size. Need not be super accurate so center in the spindle will work, use the 4 jaw like a lathe dog. Not tight just snug enough to drive the square.

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    Watch Ebay for one. I picked one up for my model “C” for $35 shipped. Now that I have it, I’ve been turning between centers a lot more.

    No more concerns about the the turned center in the 3 jaw pushing back or touching up the center. I know I could put in a spider or block the center from pushing back but I like the bushing and a hardened/ground center better.

    Mount drive plate, insert bushing/center, set the cross slide positive stop and you’re ready to thread. Move the tailstock out of the way or pull the part as many times as needed.... You’ll never have to worry about picking up exactly where you stopped threading again.

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    I did look on ebay but for tapered spindle bushing. Found a few but were too small. What did you search for? P&W parts?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Froneck View Post
    I did look on ebay but for tapered spindle bushing. Found a few but were too small. What did you search for? P&W parts?
    Search on just "morse taper' and "MT 5", "MT adapter sleeve" and such. Expect to ignore 99% or so of the catch.

    I found three #12 Jarno, such old stock the inner waxed paper was fossilized, but genuinely never out of the wrapper. Grand Tool had them. They had been made by a long-gone firm in Pennsylvania, and rather nicely. Even had carbide tips, which I didn't need, HS end.

    Surely were lower cost than the new ones bought from Stark & Riten!

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    Doesn't the Model C come with a taper turning attachment as standard?

    If so quicker to just make one than futz about looking. Last time I did one I set the taper turner with a dial gauge and extended finger attachment riding on the back side of the spindle so as to work small end to big when turning. Took the opportunity to map out the spindle taper too. Worth he extra half hour as I found a couple of minor issues that needed correcting / digging out.

    Worth making a couple or three or blanks whilst you are at it for other purposes should the need arise. Shoulda made an interchangeable point type one whilst I was at it. Would have been right handy for a couple of strange jobs. Of course if you have a stash of blanks you find uses.

    1440PH will be fine. A dead (headstock) centre is supposed to be trued before use anyway.

    Clive

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    I also turn up a quick center in the chuck, but you do lose (sometimes needed) many inches of center to center distance


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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    [QUOTE=Clive603;3397561]Doesn't the Model C come with a taper turning attachment as standard?
    As per my P&W parts manual both cross slides are shown with taper attachment and without so I assume it was available without taper attachment. Also two types of taper attachments. One had bearing in the slide the other was typical metal to metal slide. I have the bearing type taper attachment but if I can find the tapered sleeve cheap enough on ebay be easier. Might get a #6 to #4 morse and re-cut the #6 side. To make the stop I needed cut a small shoulder on a piece of round stock matching the taper for about 1/4" to keep the plug centered. Taper was close enough and shoulder butted against the spindle nose, made another for the other side and attached the 2 with all thread. Then faced the plug and put the 3 jaw chuck back on.


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