Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Largest Manufacturing Technology Community on the Web
Stay Connected:
Parting out B&S #1 Mill - Step pulley, OC gear box, Universal
- Thread starter maynah
- Start date
- Replies 30
- Views 2,987
Robert Lang
Stainless
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2007
- Location
- Minneapolis, MN
thermite
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2011
Jeff,
The universal table could find a new home on my Alzmetall AB5/S if it dasn't break the bank to get it here.
No, not for milling.
Positioning. For ignorant round holes. Straight down.
Shade-tree jig-bore whimper-imitator, rather than milling side-thrust.
[email protected]
Bill Hacker
thermite
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2011
I'm "guessing", but table, tee-slots DOWN flat-to, and even then aligned diagonally to get at least the lesser pallet dimension below 48", if not both. I don't need the knee support, but it might be faster to ship intact. Cost to here is not trivial to begin with, but it isn't that much extra mass vs the table and the other two axes.
"We'll see." All that 10EE part-out stuff we trafficed in a while back arrived undamaged, so I'm game.
Bill
99Panhard
Stainless
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2006
- Location
- Smithfield, Rhode Island
I could use that stop on the front of the table. It's missing on my #2 and I'm not even sure what it should look like.
thermite
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2011
No conflict. I don't need table stops for what I have in mind for the table if even we come to that.
M.B. Naegle
Diamond
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2011
- Location
- Conroe, TX USA
Are both cone pulleys available? I wonder if they could adapt to my B&S #12 mill?
M.B. Naegle
Diamond
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2011
- Location
- Conroe, TX USA
At the least, I might be able to adapt the pulleys. Do you have the shaft diameters? I wouldn't be able to pick them up so shipping would be my only option.
How was the counter-shaft mounted originally? Was it always on the side of the mill or was it adapted from an overhead set-up? I'm trying to convert my #12 back to being an overhead machine as there are no great places to hang a motor on it, but I'm missing all the original pieces to do so.
flatbelt
Plastic
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2004
- Location
- central me.
Do you have the tray i can pick it up if you do dave
Flatbelt, tray is sold.
MB Naegle, the drive is a aftermarket add-on.
See the holes drilled and tapped into the B&S info spot.
It's heavy, must weigh 150 or 200 lbs.
In my picture it's upside down.
Also the large maybe 2 ft. diameter vee pulley powered by the motor is removed from the cone pulley shaft in the picture.
MB Naegle, the drive is a aftermarket add-on.
See the holes drilled and tapped into the B&S info spot.
It's heavy, must weigh 150 or 200 lbs.
In my picture it's upside down.
Also the large maybe 2 ft. diameter vee pulley powered by the motor is removed from the cone pulley shaft in the picture.
Attachments
M.B. Naegle
Diamond
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2011
- Location
- Conroe, TX USA
I see. The jack shaft assembly won't work for mine. The pulley's look smaller, but they could work, If no one takes the assembly.
thermite
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2011
Might want to double check that. It's about as close to a "kit" with everything you need in one go as such things get.
PolyVee belts, soft ribs inward, not even grooves in the sheave, can deliver as much power to 1/2 or 3/4 the face-width of a cone pulley as leather did, full-width. CI pulleys are usually webbed, not solid, inside, but even so, shaft size changes or MODEST boring operation, stuff can be adapted with fair-simple work. Too-small cones? Machine the crowned shape back to straight cylinder, fab then shrink-on a "tire" of arbitrary OD, clean it up afterwards, even groove it.
2CW
M.B. Naegle
Diamond
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2011
- Location
- Conroe, TX USA
The assembly would't be able to bolt to the machine (at least not well) as there's too many curves, moving parts, chip tray, etc. When we got it, it had a single speed V-belt with a heavy motor on a crude welded bracket hanging off of a couple of 3/8" hex bolts that were 3" apart. My plan was to mount the machine on a sturdy skid with framework behind and above it that an original style countershaft could hang from.
It's the same issues I ran into with my Cincinnati Tool & Cutter Grinder. Everywhere I tried to put an aftermarket motor configuration would be in the way of some set-up or function, so I figure why fight it, just go back to how it was made to run.
In both cases, I can fabricate clutches and hangers as needed and make laminate wood pulleys if that's what it comes down to.
thermite
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2011
Standard-issue number ONE challenge, a hundred years and more arredy.
Standard response number ONE is strategically selected points, spot face operation, drill & tap, fab cylindrical stand-offs to support a spaced-out plate aligned ON those stand-offs any way it has to BE aligned.
Typically takes but four such fasteners to aside the plate and everything ON it, however complex that structure may need to be in its own right.
If there is a compelling reason, such as frequent access? One can even "hinge" the whole shebang like a vault door.
We be "Machinists" yah? Tool-making animals. Problem SOLVERS, not problem GENERATORS.
Leave THAT part to "ingin ears". And bats**t daft clients.
jhruska
Titanium
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2009
- Location
- Munster, In. USA
jhruska
Titanium
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2009
- Location
- Munster, In. USA
maynah,
Right side table handwheel and the drive gear for the inner ring.
Elevating handwheel and the shaft. Bent on my #2 circa 1918.
John
Right side table handwheel and the drive gear for the inner ring.
Elevating handwheel and the shaft. Bent on my #2 circa 1918.
John
thermite
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2011
Right-side handwheel, I can sub something else so you can have an original. Same again, "balanced" lever, opposite end, if you need that as well.
Drive gear, shaft, mini-crank handle for the universal table's angle-setting I need with the rest of the whole table, both of the X-Y (plus rotation) top two-axes & mounts down thru swivel plate, "female" dovetail & gib for the axis under it.
Not overly fussed either way as to "in-out" leadscrew, nut, shaft, bearings, or handwheel.
Fair certain I'll have to got about all that in a slightly different manner than OEM in any case.
Already told Jeff I'd stand aside, anyone doing a genuine B&S restoration wants the ENTIRE table and all its bits.
Not fair to him to cherry-pick small parts, only, tear-down labour, and leave him with a coupla hundred pounds of thence un-wanted scrap iron and no significant cash.
I'm sure we can cooperate on that, win-win all around.
Knee UNDER the universal "in-out" axis I don't need any of. Not even the "male" dovetail for in-out.
No collision on any parts of the elevation axis, "knee" casting, its gib, locks, screw, cranks atall.
Similar threads
