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Patrick Black's Paint Recipe

Straightedge

Hot Rolled
Joined
Mar 17, 2009
Location
Germany/California
I recall a short thread where Patrick Black's paint recipe got detailed out, as it's a mix of modern enamels to replicate an older paint. Damned if I can find the link--any help here?
 
Okay, John, you were right, and thanks for the help. I thought the details were in a stand-alone thread, and I was too lazy to look through all the pages detailing the restoration...

Here is the recipe repeated from that thread. Units are quarts:

0.75 Ford Gray (Tractor supply P/N 3449619) (Valspar P/N 018.4432-13.005)
2.00 Black (Tractor supply P/N 3449407) (Valspar P/N 018.4432-16.005)
1.00 Oliver Green (Tractor supply P/N 3449708) (Valspar P/N 018.4432-11.005)
0.25 New Holland Yellow (Tractor supply P/N 3449960) (Valspar P/N 018.4432-09.005)
 
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I'd like to try out some of this color on a project. I can buy the four Valspar colors listed at F&F, no problem, but I'd have to make at least a gallon which is way more than I need right now. There's also the difficulty of what do you mix it in and how do I measure 0.75 and 0.25 of a quart? Does anyone have a better way to do this? Has anyone actually mixed any of this color and could they swab some on a business card and mail it to me? If I had a sample I could have it color matched easily. As an aside the formula seems to contain more black than I would have guessed. The paint on the lathe doesn't look that dark, at least not on my screen.

Alan
 
I was curious about the apparently high black content as well. Also, the color in every picture of the lathe restoration came out so different that it is hard to tell just which is the normal daylight color. Sure is pretty, though.
 
Correction and Apology.

Fellows,

I just checked the remaining can of paint I had left from the Hendey project which had the formula written on the lid with a sharpie. It's the same as shown in the third post. However the proportions of black and oliver green seem wrong. Based on what I can remember, I think I must have reversed these two when I wrote it down. It's hard to recall exactly 2 years after the fact but I'm pretty sure only one quart of black was involved. So It most likely should be 2 parts (quarts) oliver green to 1 part black.

I sincerely apologize if anyone has made a gallon of paint that was darker than expected. I should have been more careful when I jotted it down.

I think I mentioned this somewhere in the original post, but if anyone wants an off-the-shelf version, this is just my home brewed approximation of Rockmoss Green #117 from the Ditzler Antique Ford Repaint Manual 1928-1936. Rockmoss Green was an original color used on certain Model A's.


adh2000,

I guess just use less of each color, in the same proportions. I made up a whole gallon (more or less) because the paint was only avaliable in quarts and I didn't have any other use for partial cans of paint. The way I mixed it was to first get an ideas of how much of each color to use putting a blob of this, two blobs of this, and a dash of that etc. on a test card and mixing it up to get an idea of of the relative proportions needed. Once I figured out the formula I took a clean bucked and poured in two cans of green, 1 can of black, 3/4 can of grey and 1/4 can of yellow and stirred it up real good. I then redistributed the brew back into 4 new clean quart cans that I got from Lowes.


Once again, my apologies to anyone who may have mixed a bad batch of paint because of this.


Pat Black
 
I mixed up a gallon from the info given - looks great.

J.O.

Double checked - my mixing pitcher is rock moss green inside and there are two empty black quart cans.

J.O.
 
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This has been bugging me all day at work. Tonight I went out and mixed up two batches in baby food jars with the relative proportions of the 4 colors marked on the side. One batch was made with two parts black per the original posted recipe and the other with 2 parts Oliver green. The batch with 2 parts black does in fact match the lathe as well as some left over paint in the can from the project. The test batch with 2 parts green is too light and looks similar to army green. I jumped the gun when I saw this post and figured I must have screwed up because it did sound like too much black to me also.

The original recipe shown in the thread about my Hendey is correct. I removed the post from yesterday where I (wrongfully) corrected the formula.

John, Thanks for verifying my recipe and setting me straight in spite of myself.

Another apology if my ramblings yesterday threw anyone into a tailspin trying to figure out how to mix a batch of paint.

Best Regards,

Pat Black

On edit. I thought I would add that when I photographed the lathe, I used a lot of lighting in order to show the details. For any given picture I used from 3 to 5 halogen spot lamps either direct or reflected. I adjusted the photos to try to get the hue as close as possible to the true color. Everything in the photos is brighter than normal (notice how bright white the wall is in my Avatar) because there wouldn't be much to look at if I hadn't done it this way. In reality the color looks dark and smokey on a test card but when spread out over a big ol machine it does in fact look, similar to the photos.
 
Thanks for going to all this trouble guys. The color really looks good in the lathe photos so I'm going to try it out and hope its not too dark. Unfortunately the Ditzler color doesn't help much. A quart of automotive paint costs like $60 around here and it would be way over the top for what I'm doing. An image Google on Rock Moss Green produced colors ranging from blue to green and everything between, I assume that's the lighting when the photo was taken.

Alan
 
After refurbing/repainting more old arn than I care to admit, I've gotten tired of using various shades of machine gray as a topcoat. After reading the entire Hendey tiebar thread, I think I've fallen in love with Patrick Black's formulation of Rock Moss Green. Unfortunately, I've struck out on finding Valspar Tractor and Implement Paint since TSC discontinued it in favor of the Majic line. The local Valspar dealers, that only sell the housepaint, want to charge me a premium to order the stuff in!

In the past, I've normally used Ben Moore's DTM line of industrial coatings and am quite familiar with its use. My local supplier would be happy to custom color gallons of DTM for me, but he cannot find a Ditzler to BenMoore equivalency chart. I can get quarts of the Ditzler stuff from online vendors that cater to the Model A crowd, but at $160/quart it's a non-starter!

Anyway, I was wondering if anyone out there has had a color match to the Benjamin Moore system performed? Alternately, I was wondering if I could talk someone into mailing me several inches of something painted with Patrick Black's homebrew so I can color match off of it. I would be happy to pay for the paint "chip" and the postage.

Once I get the BenMoore formulation, I'll be happy to post it in the Antiques subforum as DTM paints are far easier to find than Valspar, or so it seems.

Thanx,

Brian
Taxachusetts
 
Fellows,

I just checked the remaining can of paint I had left from the Hendey project which had the formula written on the lid with a sharpie. It's the same as shown in the third post. However the proportions of black and oliver green seem wrong. Based on what I can remember, I think I must have reversed these two when I wrote it down. It's hard to recall exactly 2 years after the fact but I'm pretty sure only one quart of black was involved. So It most likely should be 2 parts (quarts) oliver green to 1 part black.

Pat Black

This has been bugging me all day at work. Tonight I went out and mixed up two batches in baby food jars with the relative proportions of the 4 colors marked on the side. One batch was made with two parts black per the original posted recipe and the other with 2 parts Oliver green. The batch with 2 parts black does in fact match the lathe as well as some left over paint in the can from the project. The test batch with 2 parts green is too light and looks similar to army green. I jumped the gun when I saw this post and figured I must have screwed up because it did sound like too much black to me also.

The original recipe shown in the thread about my Hendey is correct. I removed the post from yesterday where I (wrongfully) corrected the formula.

Pat Black

On edit. I thought I would add that when I photographed the lathe, I used a lot of lighting in order to show the details. For any given picture I used from 3 to 5 halogen spot lamps either direct or reflected. I adjusted the photos to try to get the hue as close as possible to the true color. Everything in the photos is brighter than normal (notice how bright white the wall is in my Avatar) because there wouldn't be much to look at if I hadn't done it this way. In reality the color looks dark and smokey on a test card but when spread out over a big ol machine it does in fact look, similar to the photos.

A good many years after the fact :D, but I just discovered Patrick Black's amazing thread this past week, thanks to Bill H:
Hendey 14 by 6 Tie-Bar Rehab

And thanks to Patrick Black and John Oder, for their work on the colors.

I wanted to share my experience with my attempt. One thing mentioned in a few posts was that depending on lighting and camera, as well as our own displays at home. . . Is that the color seems to vary in the many pics in the thread. All of them look so great, but maybe difficult to tell which tint is the exact color.

For me, my favorite of those, the color appears closer to "Olive Drab". And I am basing that how I see these two photos combined:

12.jpg

When I see the old Ford Model A's, I see "rock moss green" as this:

24.jpg

Also some Amazon lisings that happen to show rock moss green, and olive drab next to each other:

25.jpg

At the time the threads were written, Tractor Supply Co used a different vendor for its paint supply. Today they use a brand called Majic. I happen to love the Magik brand, over others for oil based enamel. While not a large variety of colors, what they have really lays down and applies nice, with real good finishes.

In attempting to duplicate I made a run to tractor supply. One bad news, Oliver Green and N.H. Yellow can only be purchased in 1 gallon, even online.

14.jpg

Just goofing around, and doing some experimenting, I had two new empty 1 gallon cans. I dumped 1 qt of black in each. Then I added one qt of O. Green to one. And .75 Light Ford Gray to the other. I wanted to see them individually before mixing them together.

What I found was the black had damn near consumed the colors. I was just a hair under total black for both, separately. There was no way, mixing them, and adding a little yellow was going to save it.

At this point I stopped, and started working with small samples. I found what works for me, and I truly think it is a wonderful color. But its based on the pics I've shown, and I think is closer to an "Olive Drab".

In this pic, the paint sample circled in yellow is the result of mixing as per original posted recipe, its appearance in real life with eyeballs is a hair shade less than black, or a super dark gray.

While the paint sample circled in red is the results of what I desired, and with my eyeballs looks something like Olive Drab.

23.jpg

Now because I initially started in two 1 gallon jugs. . .:D. . . Well I had a dilemma, but it was an easy math problem. I kept going with both separately, and have two perfect gallons of the same color. :D

My recipe for that is Tractor Supply Co, Majic brand paint:
1 Qt Gloss Black 2994
1 Qt Light Ford Gray 2967
1.5 Qt Oliver Green 2974
.5 Qt New Holland Yellow 2952

For a quick sample, I'm going to paint a straight edge, and a section of a B & S surface grinder. I'll post pics on that in a few days.
 
Great looking stuff - like it was on the new Fords ninety-odd years ago - but as Pat could probably confirm it is the most ordinary of paint as far as being durable in a shop environment. If I live long enough I'll get some tougher version mixed at Benjamin Moore
 
Thanks for going to all this trouble guys. The color really looks good in the lathe photos so I'm going to try it out and hope its not too dark. Unfortunately the Ditzler color doesn't help much. A quart of automotive paint costs like $60 around here and it would be way over the top for what I'm doing. An image Google on Rock Moss Green produced colors ranging from blue to green and everything between, I assume that's the lighting when the photo was taken.

Alan

buy some old school red or yellow and see what it cost if you can still get it with cadmium in it
 








 
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