Powerturn lathe, 1968 Lodge & shipley - Page 2
Close
Login to Your Account
Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 21 to 40 of 78
  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Duluth, MN
    Posts
    507
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    10
    Likes (Received)
    45

    Default

    The motor is most likely dual voltage. At 480V the windings are in series--240V the windings are in parallel. Obviously at 240V the current draw is double. Check out the heater ratings in the relays. Check out the transformer supplying the control functions.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Lexington, VA
    Posts
    627
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    158
    Likes (Received)
    247

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Grigg View Post
    This link is the picture album of the machine
    Lodge & Shipley Powerturn - Google Photos
    Moved the old lathe out and the new one in today after a lot of shop cleaning last night.
    Couple dozen new pictures in the album of moving, some closeups of the lathe.

    The more I look at this lathe the better it looks! It'll take a lot of cleaning old dried oil but might be almost new under all that.

    Checked the 20hp motor and it only has 3 leads, 480V only.
    The motor starter is only rated for 15hp at lower voltage. Simplest solution might be to find a 240V 15hp motor. Or a 30KW 240-480v transformer.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Shreveport/Louisiana USA
    Posts
    1,783
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1669
    Likes (Received)
    1106

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Grigg View Post
    Moved the old lathe out and the new one in today after a lot of shop cleaning last night.
    Couple dozen new pictures in the album of moving, some closeups of the lathe.

    The more I look at this lathe the better it looks! It'll take a lot of cleaning old dried oil but might be almost new under all that.

    Checked the 20hp motor and it only has 3 leads, 480V only.
    The motor starter is only rated for 15hp at lower voltage. Simplest solution might be to find a 240V 15hp motor. Or a 30KW 240-480v transformer.
    A 30kw transformer is gonna be a serious bill but if I had the means I wouldn't hesitate to spend it on a pristine lathe like that.
    To me it would be worth every penny keeping it original and unmolested.

  4. Likes steve-l liked this post
  5. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Birmingham, AL
    Posts
    13,216
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    6583
    Likes (Received)
    2552

    Default

    You might check one of your larger local rewind shops. They may have a motor sitting around that somebody never picked up. That size should be pretty reasonable. And yes, a 30KVA transformer is going to be big money unless you can find one that is being taken out of service in an building being torn down or remodeled.

  6. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Geilenkirchen, Germany
    Posts
    2,344
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1412
    Likes (Received)
    1194

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gbent View Post
    Congratulations on your find. You have what was, at the time, one of the finest manual lathes of its size in the world.
    Correction.........is, even today, the best I know of. I have a 1978 build tool room model. It has a D1-6 spindle and a 15 hp 460V motor. I moved my lathe with a 35 ton crane and 40' flat bed truck. The original installation instructions from L&S specifies 8" thick concrete bed under the lathe. My 4 metric ton Still forklift cannot lift it.

  7. Likes Mike C. liked this post
  8. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Lexington, VA
    Posts
    627
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    158
    Likes (Received)
    247

    Default

    Thanks, I'll call around and hunt for a 15HP 1750 RPM 240V Westinghouse motor, seems common enough. If no luck locally I have already found one further away at not a terrible price plus freight. If one is available locally I expect total price will be better.
    A transformer might could be had used for similar cost to a motor but then I have to put it somewhere. A new/old motor sounds like the best idea so far considering the ups and downs of the various options.

    Moving went well, easy unload with excavator and skilled operator, a good friend and neighbor.


    Set the tailstock in the door on some blocks and later the pallet jack. Set the headstock on the 6,000lb forklift and drove it straight in the shop.


    Turned the pallet jack sideways and used side shift on the lift to slide it over the last 18" into place.


    A good but busy week from inspection before bidding last Friday to placing it in the shop this Saturday.
    I expect it'll take some weeks and or months to get it all washed, tuned up, running, and repair various things.

  9. Likes Paolo_MD liked this post
  10. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Geilenkirchen, Germany
    Posts
    2,344
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1412
    Likes (Received)
    1194

    Default

    Tip. Proper leveling took me 4 iterations over 5 weeks. Take your time and do it right. It will change slightly as it settles.

  11. #28
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Lexington, VA
    Posts
    627
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    158
    Likes (Received)
    247

    Default

    Thanks, will do.

    Started cleaning the ways and the area between last night, they were all covered with this dried on oil and or coolant. Comes off easy with a razor blade.
    Nothing alarming at all, looks real crisp and smooth.




    This is all cleaned up close to the chuck. The lines are ever so lightly etched from the oil passages under the saddle, it must have sat in one place for a very long time.

  12. Likes Paolo_MD liked this post
  13. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Lexington, VA
    Posts
    627
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    158
    Likes (Received)
    247

    Default

    Started cleaning some of the dried oil/coolant and that's going to be quite a job. I'd like to find a solvent that is gentle enough to not harm the paint much but also effective enough to see meaningful progress.
    Any ideas on that?

    Looked into the tailstock because the handwheel wouldn't turn. Found the hub/bushing had worked lose at some point drawing the bevel gears out of mesh and chewing them up a bit. luckily they're off the shelf Boston L 104Y gears best I can tell/measure. Ordered two hardened ones off ebay for a reasonable price.
    I'd love to have the 2 speed tailstock and it looks like those parts could be installed if I found them, the machine work is already done on the castings and shafts. I asked Steve at Monarch Lathes (also supports L&S) and sounds like that stuff is made to order, not at all cost effective though we didn't get as far as actual prices.
    Anyone have a Powerturn parts machine?

    Is there a good source for Twin Disc brand multi disc clutch frictions and spacers? This one works but I can see was over heated at some point and I might need to deal with it in the future.

    Is there a service manual that covers in depth disassembly and reassembly procedures? I do have the operation and parts manual.

    To run it I'm now searching for a 30 or 37.5 kva three phase 240V to 480V or similar transformer close enough to go fetch.




  14. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Lexington, VA
    Posts
    627
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    158
    Likes (Received)
    247

    Default

    Just keep pecking away at fixing the little things and cleaning a bit at a time and eventually I'll have it all in fine shape.
    Keep adding pictures to the same album. Most pictures used in this thread are also in the album if you wanted to see larger sizes.
    Photo album

    The handle for cover on the headstock came bent and I was able to just straighten it and press it back together. Also pressed on some little ball ends scavenged off a piece of scrap something... just because. Then installed and adjusted the latch and bent/adjusted the shape of the catch so it cams past snug a little and stays latched.



    There is a spring plunger as part of the clutch linkage that both holds it in neutral and helps hold it engaged, this was missing entirely.
    Thankfully the spring and cap I later found in the belt guard but no luck finding the plunger. Using the one from my other lathe I made a new one from some tool steel.
    In the meantime I had priced these three parts, plug, spring, and Plunger from Monarch. I don't know quite how to respond to the quote, the 3 parts are $1,313.50 with a couple weeks lead time, made to order... Seriously?





    Tried some mineral spirits to loosen the crud coating everything and that works pretty good but should be done with the shop doors open and without the wood stove going. Where there is no paint the razor blade works well.
    the more I clean the better and better the lathe looks, not because of the crud but under that it seems hardly used much less beat up and abused


  15. Likes lienjohn liked this post
  16. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Geilenkirchen, Germany
    Posts
    2,344
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1412
    Likes (Received)
    1194

    Default

    I ran into the same pricing issues from Monarch for my Powerturn. I can't remember what it was that I needed, but in the end, I made it myself. I had the same problem with the old solidified oil everywhere. I found that industrial cleaner made for truck tarpaulins is the hot setup. It is just a concentrated 409, but it emulsifies dried oil and tar with no paint damage. I sprayed it on small areas at a time then scrubbed with a fingernail brush and wiped the muck off with a paper towel. I went through a lot of paper towels, but the mess was manageable. I also converted the OEM oil filter to an automotive external cartridge filter because I could not locate replacement elements for the OEM item.

  17. #32
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Lexington, VA
    Posts
    627
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    158
    Likes (Received)
    247

    Default

    Thanks for the tips. I have some Super Clean which is a lie based cleaner, like Simple Green and some others, I'll try it. Undiluted it can discolor paint, and left long enough will remove it, supposed to rinse with water after.

    Today I went to NAPA for the oil filter, no problem!
    The operators manual describes the filter housing as Purolator type P192-04 with replacement element 63151-2.
    NAPA # 1092 my guy says is a direct replacement, perfect match, no compromise, and is described as 25 micron. Cost $13 and two are coming on tomorrow's truck, no problem to get.

    Grigg

  18. #33
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    new plymouth id
    Posts
    371
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    26
    Likes (Received)
    91

    Default

    this is a beautiful lathe it looks great Im jealous as for the motor I have found just by shopping around the prices vary incredible amounts. I found a local wholesaler who sold me a brand new teko 20 horse 6 pole motor so 1100 rpm for less than 2000.00 dollars and a 30 horse 1800 rpm motor for just over 1500.00 and he had them on the shelf. I have messed with transformers for pump projects and its almost always a pain I had a 460 to 2200 volt transformer that started leaking oil on the job during a 200 hour pump test that caused some worries for every one. if a good used transformer is available for cheap great. otherwise maybe think about biting the bullet on a new motor

  19. #34
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    223
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    726
    Likes (Received)
    190

    Default

    Purple Power is a pretty good paint stripper.

    WD-40 by the gallon, applied with a hand sprayer (like used for windex) coats the surfaces quickly and loosens up the crud for cleaning with a brush.

  20. #35
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Birmingham, AL
    Posts
    13,216
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    6583
    Likes (Received)
    2552

    Default

    "In the meantime I had priced these three parts, plug, spring, and Plunger from Monarch. I don't know quite how to respond to the quote, the 3 parts are $1,313.50 with a couple weeks lead time, made to order... Seriously?"

    This is why it doesn't matter if you can get replacement parts for an old lathe or not. You have a machine shop. You make the parts or, if something like a headstock gear, you get hold of a shop that can make it for you. All Monarch is going to do is send the drawing to a shop they contract with and double the quote.

  21. #36
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Lexington, VA
    Posts
    627
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    158
    Likes (Received)
    247

    Default

    Speaking of marked up parts the gears for the tailstock are $341.00 each and 4 week lead time. They're Boston Gear part number L104Y or HLK104Y (hardened) unless someone already swapped out the originals. In any case the Boston gears seem like a perfect fit and they can be had new or surplus for under $100 for the pair.

    The shaft was bent with 0.035" run-out on the little end. This talistock and gears had been messed with previously and not very carefully.
    I was able to press and bend and get it running within 0.002" down the length of it. Not as close as I'm sure it was new or as close as I'd like but it might be just close enough to work fine for years to come.
    Cleaned up the parts and put the new gears on. I'm going to completely disassemble and clean the tailstock top to bottom before I refit these parts and make a solid shim to adjust/set the backlash.





  22. Likes Paolo_MD liked this post
  23. #37
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Lexington, VA
    Posts
    627
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    158
    Likes (Received)
    247

    Default

    On the electrical side of things I've been hunting for a 30kva 240V to 480V transformer. So far haven't found one close by or cheap enough after adding freight.
    Today I did find and looked at a nice 50kva but only single phase, so close.

    I suppose it'd work pre phase converter but I'd have to build a dedicated 480V converter. Leaving the existing converter for 240V machines. Workable but not ideal.

    Still hunting for a 3 phase transformer.

  24. #38
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Michigan
    Posts
    44
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    10

    Default

    I've been following this thread for a while but I just got around to joining PM. I own a 1978 L&S 1610 power turn (18" x54") and o also own a truck scale. So just to set the record straight a toolmakers model with all the goodies weighs almost exactly 8400#.

  25. #39
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Lexington, VA
    Posts
    627
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    158
    Likes (Received)
    247

    Default

    CDiesel, This one has fewer goodies, another 2' of bed, and is 10 years older. The 1957 model 18x30 I also have came with all cast iron drive end covers where the newer one has aluminum. So as they changed details over he years weights changed too.
    In any case they're heavy. Wish I could weigh mine just for curiosity's sake. If I had a low profile scale of some sort could weigh it in place one end at a time.


    Last week I cleaned a few parts using diluted simple green in a small ultrasonic parts cleaner. I had planned to do a lot more cleaning over the weekend but no luck.



    Decided to checkout the idler hub/bearing for the feed gearing. When I inspected the lathe prior to purchase this was a concern, it was very wobbly. I suspected that the nut on the back side of the pivit pin had worked loose. Come to find out this is a different design than the parts book shows. The parts book does show a pin and a nut and uses long straight roller bearing. What I have uses a stepped headed pin pressed in the arm from the back and pressed on the protruding pin is the hub, two deep groove ball bearings (SKF 6005-RS), and a spacer.
    The inner bearing had imploded and the pin was turning in the arm, not a good situation at all. Haven't cleaned it all up yet but thinking the pin may be snug enough to use some green loctite retaining compound and I'll order some new bearings. The wear on the face of the arm and on the back of the hub shouldn't matter, they shouldn't make contact anyhow.






    This bad bearing and the tailstock gearing are the only real issues I've found and expect to find - I'll soon have them licked.
    Well to be complete, the clutch functions fine but has been overheated, that might need attention later. Before I got it one of the shift arms was broken and brazed in the headstock not pretty but should be a sound repair... Otherwise the whole thing is just dirty.

    Grigg

  26. #40
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Michigan
    Posts
    44
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    10

    Default

    I had to weigh part of a massive trencher one time, I used porta- power rams of a known diameter with a good quality pressure gauge and did the math on sq inches vs. Psi. When it was weighed later I was within 2 percent.

  27. Likes Paolo_MD liked this post

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •